Recent content by jscheier

When you reinstalled the pitman arm, was it parallel to the frame, or angled slightly towards the driver's side front wheel? It should be angled slightly towards the DS wheel when reinstalled. Not my rig, but this is what I was told (and after installing, agreed) it should look like. Both DS...

Casting number would be check #1. I thought the 289 also had a marking in the intake valley.... but maybe I'm thinking of the actual intake. It's been a minute since I had one. My 289 block was turned into a solid roller cam 347 sitting in a 4-eyed 1986 Mustang GT.

I was watching. I was really hoping it would sell for you! Very cool Bronco and history!

I bought the truck shop manual thinking the wiring would be in there. Nope. The Truck wiring diagram did have my 1969 bronco wiring included.

That flasher comes with an additional 'adapter' piece that you slide over the prongs on the flasher. It effectively changes the polarity of the flasher. If you look at the photo on this Summit Racing flasher, you can see the adapter. Most of the advertisements don't show the adapter in the...

Ditto. My LEDs would not work without the newer LED flasher. I think I had to use the reverse polarity portion of it as well. Now flashers and hazards work on my '69 with LEDs all over the place :)

I went on Amazon and searched "1969 Ford Truck Wiring Diagram" and ended up buying a thumb drive that appears to have all of the 1969 wiring diagrams scanned from the original service manuals. I also got the "1969 Ford Truck Shop Manual" thumb drive that is the same for the mechanical portion of...

Sooooo..... I pulled the piston out of the first MC this morning. Looks like there was a bunch of debris in the cylinder (magnet would not pick it up, so I'm going to assume aluminum from the casting & machining process). Some light scoring of the piston, seal, and cylinder as well. I didn't...

So... when I was testing the old (but new) MC on the car, there was a significant amount of fluid movement in both front and rear reservoirs. With the issue seemingly relegated to the front reservoir (rear brakes), I wonder if that movement was from the bypass. The new Wilwood MC has...

Well, good news! Got the Wilwood stuff installed yesterday. Was immediately able to gravity bleed all 4 corners without issue. Locked it all down and then did the old 3-pump-dump with my son on the pedal. 4x at each corner and the pedal was rock-hard. Topped off the fluid, started the...

Wilwood stuff showed up last night, so I got to work. Pulled the old MC, lines to prop valve and the prop valve itself. Disconnecting the prop valve rear line (going to the rear brakes netted no fluid leak. Disconnecting the front prop valve line (going to the front brakes) yielded fluid...

Vs. just tossing it into the trash ;) I will most likely pull it apart just to satisfy my curiosity. I've NEVER had any brake system fight me like this one (well, other than plumbing 1995 Cobra ABS into my 86GT... but most of that was trying to get the ABS brick to bleed).

Now that I re-read this, yeah, it's confusing. In order to plug the MC, I removed the front line (going to the prop valve). When I removed that line, no fluid came out of the MC port. Nothing. Not a drop. But the reservoir for the rear brakes (front reservoir) was full. I then inserted the...

I've run into that quite recently (same forum, different post). Not planning to do it, but choosing to do it while you are in there, and then getting screwed because the new part is crap... always fun.

I try to base mine on these thoughts: If you think a part is old / worn, and it won't break the bank to handle it, replace it. If you have to tear whatever you are working on back down again to get to the part in question, replace it (Just did disc brake conversion, so did all bearings, seals &...