1968 purchased today, deciding which way to go…

[lgdpt]

Two weeks ago I was driving my 70 Bronco and a man pulled up next to me asking if I want “another one” a friend needed out of her garage. We exchange numbers and I just went to see this 1968 whose owner had passed away.

I purchased from the family this morning for a great deal. None of the body panels are straight and the motor needs a rebuild. But it’s got a clean title, PS, PB, ARB lockers, 4 spd. 37’s,

Previous owner wheeled it hard in So CA. He was just about to install a fuel injected 5.8 (see pic). I think I’m going to sell that motor and rebuild the 289 to stock (my son is going to drive this). What’s it worth (the 5.8)?

I’m trying to decide if I should:
1. just get it running/(safe) and let my 15 year old learn to drive with it.
2. Buy new fenders, quarter panels, hood, etc and hope the inner mounting is straight.
3. buy a new complete body/tub

I am open to advice!
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[ford man]

Lower it down put 32x11.50 tires or smaller put a full roll cage in it and tie it to the frame with harness/shoulder belts let him learn .

 

[Bajabrewer]

Lower it down put 32x11.50 tires or smaller put a full roll cage in it and tie it to the frame with harness/shoulder belts let him learn .

I'm with Ford man on this one - I'll add get some rear flares & let him(or make him if he wants to drive it) help every step of the way. The lessons & memories will come with time & you will know the right way to go as issues creep up.

Good Luck & remember to have FUN!

 

[laserfish]

Did this with my 15 yo son who is now 38 and my father. My son can do most anything to a car and still loves the 73 Bronco (even though it is currently mine) as do his children. Great way to make lasting bonds and instill a knowledge that is invaluable.

 

[4xfun]

Update all the safety features like brakes, steering, collapsible steering column, lights, and safety harness. With my kids I have learned that is not if they will have an accident, but when. Stopping distance and driving like everyone is going to hit you is hard to teach until they have been in a fender bender. Make it so that they can walk away. Honestly, I would not have given any of my kids a bronco to start with. Let them drive it occasionally, but learn on something that they can have an accident in. Cars are faster today and they have made numerous safety features in new models. I have been hit 5 times by other people not paying attention.

 

[Scoop]

Keep the bent/dented body parts until your son becomes a proficient driver! (Ask me how I know.)

 

[Revelation]

Make it safe, and mechanically sound and let him drive it. Praise the "Patina"
After a few years Start a rebuild project with him and make his dreams and ideas for the Bronco become reality, let him take pride in the finished product. I built a 74 from nothing but a frame, was it perfect, not even close, but I had touched every nut, bolt and screw on it, did all the body work and I was dang proud of it.

 

[markatherton]

Its a 68 with a 77 body. Check all the vin numbers, especially in Calif...

 

[EFI Guy]

It's a long shot given the colors, but if it's a 68 frame check the VIN against this one. https://www.findmybronco.com/
There is a decent chance that the 351 is a roller block. I'd hang on to it even if the kid doesn't get to enjoy it.

 

[lgdpt]

It’s a 68 vin and frame (peacock blue). Body swapped from a 77 (factory orange) 20 years ago.

 

[lgdpt]

I really don’t wanna keep this 351 in my garage… Anybody have advice on what to sell it for?

 

[jamesroney]

I really don’t wanna keep this 351 in my garage… Anybody have advice on what to sell it for?

Location and condition are important. A rusty 5.8 in Michigan is worth about half of a clean 5.8 in California.

The 5.8 was used in various forms from 1969 to 1996. It was fuel injected from 1987. It finally got all a roller cam and became desirable in 1994. You will need to look at your engine block casting number near the starter to determine if it is the desirable F4TE-6015 block, or if it is the inferior 93 and older block.

The older 5.8 EFI will retail at a full service dismantler for $700-$900. This is with a 90 day warranty and loaded into your truck. There is often tax, and a modest core charge. (which is often waived.)

The 94-96 5.8EFI will retail for $900-$1500 depending on condition and mileage. Again, this is full service retail.

You don't know your condition, compression, or mileage. So there's some risk.

 

[fluffybunny]

Be sure to check out the gear ratio. If it has 4.56, 4.88, or 5.13's, putting smaller tires on it will make it tach out quick. Nice buy and like the others said, leave it as is body wise for now. It looks fine the way it is. You could throw a different pumpkin the rear and just remove the front driveshaft for now if it has those gears are for off-roading and then move to smaller tires.

 

[lgdpt]

Thank you for the great reply James.

 

[lgdpt]

FOAE 6015-AA-8
2F27

Is what I see… I’m reading that’s 93.

 

[lgdpt]

Be sure to check out the gear ratio. If it has 4.56, 4.88, or 5.13's, putting smaller tires on it will make it tach out quick. Nice buy and like the others said, leave it as is body wise for now. It looks fine the way it is. You could throw a different pumpkin the rear and just remove the front driveshaft for now if it has those gears are for off-roading and then move to smaller tires.

4.56 gears

 

[jamesroney]

FOAE 6015-AA-8
2F27

Is what I see

1992 Ford 351 / 5.8 cast on June 27, 1992. Flat tappet block.

 

[lgdpt]

1992 Ford 351 / 5.8 cast on June 27, 1992. Flat tappet block.

Thank you!