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I'd leave the front open and put a locker in the rear. It's amazing where I've gone with a detroit in the rear and an open front. So much so I can't stand the lunch box locker in the front, but I'm too lazy to take it out.

It wont run at all? If not run compression with a gauge. If you need to loosen the rockers up and see if it will hold compression. If you can get it to run pour a quart of cheap ATF in the oil and let it run at about 1500-2000 rpms for 15-20 minutes, block part of the radiator so it...

I've run a derale cooler and fan mounted under the passenger floor board for 10+ years with no issues. I have an AOD with no other cooling and it's been wheeled and abused fairly well. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. Don't over think it.

Ben, I'm using the explorer TB and MAF with a mustang based wiring harness. All I did was swap the plug to match the explorer MAF. The way I understand it and from studying the Probst manual the MAF's are close enough to be fine. I've never had any issues. Regardless of a couple of...

Tom, if it's a chevy conversion you can, if it's a Ford disk setup you cannot. The chevy conversion has the spindle with with narrow bolt pattern.

We're supposed to unlock them?

My very first set of gears I set up took me 45 minutes on a 9", second time less than 30 minutes. You need about $50 in specialty tools to set up gears. They are literally the easiest axle to set gears up on, especially if your are learning how. I've run and beaten on a Detroit for over a...

A couple of things you can do to prolong/clean up an engine is dump a quart of cheap atf in the oil and run it for a few days, then change your oil. It will clear up any internal sludge and varnish. You can also put a little through the carburetor at an idle to clean the valves, just beware...

No. You need a 28 ounce flex plate and balancer. There is an adapter pulley, or have the explorer balancer rebalanced

There's nothing wrong with a re-cored stock radiator. My rig still has one and I don't have overheating issues at all, even in 100+ degree heat.

The window felt can be bought by the foot at any window shop. It's literally a buck or two a foot, save some money and buy local...

I run heims, the first set lasted 7 very hard years, with fairly easy driving I think they'd last a long time if you buy quality parts.

Why not go to a local automotive paint store?

I recommend 5.13s with your drivetrain. 4.88s would be okay, but you'll be happier with more gear. One of these days I'll pull my 4.88s for 5.13s, so I do know what I'm saying here.

Has the "mechanic" verified spark and fuel delivery? Ran compression, verified timing and if in fact there's a lot of slop in the timing chain?

The stock 1 barrel carb is dead simple and probably the most reliable carburetor ever. I'd rebuild the stock carburetor and run it.

Google always works when I'm looking for something? Might be worth a try...

Awesome and oven cleaner are your best bet. That purple stuff flat sucks compared to awesome! As said scrape everything off first then go at it.

In my experience the hardest part of the rebuild is the R&R. Once on the bench they are easy. Just make sure you have plenty of room to spread things out and stay organized. I prefer to disassemble, clean, and reassemble in sub assemblies in the order they come out of the case. Lay it...

I wouldn't be afraid of rebuilding it yourself either. Automatic transmissions are actually fairly simple when you break them down. You may have to buy a couple of tools or use some creativity, but as long as you follow the rebuild manual and do the air checks you cant really screw them up.