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Or fab your own bracket.

I would say yes. The Duffy's 3 speed and 4 speed shifters are Hurst shifter assemblies, same as Tom's.

In a stock harness the other end of the BR wire is spliced to the pink resistance wire and the coil power feed. When key is in RUN position the BR wire at the relay end should have 8ish volts on it, so it should be insulated. When key is turned to START, the relay supplies 12v to BR wire to...

Put my 4 speed back together, but don't tell my wife :)

When fusible link is connected to battery, at starter relay, do the headlights work?

But inquiring minds need want to know what's inside 🤔

Nothing happens when ignition switch turned to RUN or ACC. Stock harness power flow is from battery (BK wire fusible link) thru bullet connector at ammeter, then to a splice under dash that feeds 1) ignition switch (Y wire), 2) headlight switch (BK-O wire) and 3) back to alternator (BK-Y...

Is this a crack? This offset does not look the same on both sides?

What year Bronco, and stock harness?

SKF 11123 If needed, Input Shaft Repair Sleeve is SKF 99112 And one of these:,Input Shaft Bearing Retainer Gasket C2AZ 7051-B

Maybe this? https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/wiring-pigtail-under-dash-harness-to-wiper-motor-used-1969-mercury-cougar.html?sessionthemeid=26

I was waiting for this question. Looking at your photos I wondered if the copper foil on the bottom side of the adapter was worn thru. There was another photo posted (gr8scott I think) that has an additional piece of copper on his adapter.

If it is a return LESS fuel system, why would it use a regulator with a return line to tank?

DuraSpark II BLUE grommet module connectors DuraSpark 2/3-pin Ignition Control Module; ECH EC72 UMP Connector – CON-115 DuraSpark 4-Pin Ignition Control Module; ECH EC127 UMP Connector – CON-134

If one's good, two are better, and I don't want to dig thru the glovebox when one fails. The top one is 30+ years old. I bought the bottom one a few years ago (from rockauto), and have been running on it with no issues, so far.

Been running Duraspark II in my 68 for 30+ years, no problem. Mounted flat on inner fender. Connectors are loose, wires are potted into base of module, I don't think it matters how it is oriented.

Exhaust hanger. I just removed one on my 68. Held on with 5/16-18 X 3/4 thread forming bolt

ACC position supplies power to all the accessories (radio, lights, cigarette lighter, volt meter). ON position supplies power to ignition and accessories. START position supplies power to ignition and starter relay, kills power to accessories. Don't recall all you've done up to this point...

Tasker, Enquiring minds want to know, are you going to drive this, or park it in the living room?