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What your describing sounds remarkably like a failed or failing condenser.

UPDATE... The front shaft from a 91-94 explorer will work very well after being shortened. In addition, Looks like a front ds from an 87-01 Cherokee will work too.

I'm using the Dana 20. Everything is in and running great, just time for a front shaft. I tried the factory shaft, but at 2.5" diameter tube...it's a no-go. I'll see if the explorer shaft will work..it should. Greg

I've read in a few places that the front shaft from a 91-94 explorer will work after being shortened. Is this accurate? Any other applications that will work? I plan on hitting the pull a part yards Monday. Btw a custom 2" shaft built locally is around 600, vs shortening which is 80.00...

Hey Paul, Quite a bit of braking, some of that being "spirited" to seat the new pads. Torqued the outer nut to around 90 ft lbs. I can hold my hand on it comfortably. I just don't remember them getting this warm. Plenty of room between the caliper and knuckle. I feel like I'm ok with this...

Just finished the disc swap using Chevy calipers. All new everything. My hubs seem warmer than I remember them being on other swaps. Bearings are all set to factory spec, 50lbs then back 1/4 turn. My ir thermometer says 120°. That was after about 20 minutes driving and some heavy braking...

Since I haven't driven this setup yet, and all these symptoms are occurring while "free-revving", I've been advised to get some actual drive time on it. Hoping that the ecm can learn its way out of this.

Yes it does...very slight, but noticeable. Hmmmmm.

Added multiple grounds at several different locations throughout the body/frame. They're all clean and good. Thanks Greg

Finally got the explorer efi installed and running, literally fired right up (amazing). Garry Vance gets the credit for that one. Idles great, nice and smooth...but.....when i blip the throttle there is a very prominent flat spot and the engine stumbles hard, never dies and recovers quickly. If...

Used a scanner to move the tps voltage to .97 and no change. This is exactly like a bad accelerator pump in a carbed engine.

O.K. Ill look into the tps again, tps voltage is 1.08 closed-4.68 wide open with no dead spots in the sweep that i can see.

Finally got the explorer efi installed and running, literally fired right up (amazing). Garry Vance gets the credit for that one. Idles great, nice and smooth...but.....when i blip the throttle there is a very prominent flat spot and the engine stumbles hard, never dies and recovers quickly. If...

As the title suggests. I'm needing to get o2 sensors for the 98 explorer swap into the 77. I have bosch 15717 for both sides, but now I'm seeing conflicting info as to these being correct. The connectors are different but will plug in. I'm specifically needing to know if these are the right...

Update: After all was done, I had to move the mount back 2.5 inches. Hope this helps someone in the future. Thanks for all the replies, they were very helpful. Greg

I've triple checked my measurements and the difference between the c4 and this adapted 4r is 2 3/8" I plan at this point to engineer a fair amount of adjustability into the mount and call it a day.

I didnt. My wife found that video about an hour ago. The AA instructions dont mention this at all..in fact they say to use the stock tc mounts. On another note, the bushing sleeves provided in the kit dont fit either. Thanks for the reply Greg

Its the 50-2704E kit for the 4r70W. adapter is 6". And it appears that the threaded holes for the mounts are not centered, i.e. the rubber mounts will fit in the machined pocket but the hole is way off.

I am finishing up the 4r70w trans with the AA kit. Will notch the factory crossmember tonight.. Anyone have a solid number on how far back I need to move the xmember. My searching suggests around 2-2 1/4" . Can someone confirm this before I start cutting? Thank Greg

This is where your problem will most likely be.