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That green one is uncut and original! Don't go hacking it up now!

I just looked at Eastwood and they do have a few steering wheel restoration kits, but none include a topcoat, basically they just consist of epoxy and self-etching primer, which I already have, I'm mainly wondering about the top coat. It needs to stick well and wear well.... I've been using...

I'm FINALLY getting to the point where my interior is going back together. Dynamat is in, column is painted and rebuilt, so are the heater and airboxes. I redid the dash by welding up the radio and ash tray openings and cut 4 holes for gauges, that needs to be painted this weekend if the weather...

The insulated crimp-on connectors you get at 99.9% of auto parts stores DO suck. The connectors I was referring to are bare and have separate tight fitting male/female vinyl sleeves. You could heat shrink instead I suppose. It might even be a little cheaper. What I forgot to mention about the...

Those Waytek connectors look cool. Very similar to the ones I'm planning on using when I reconstruct my harness. The key thing is that they crimp on to the wire and have a separate crimp on the insulation of the wire so it's really strong. You can also drop a little solder on there too for good...

I thought it turned out pretty cool. Not exactly my vision of what mine will turn out like, but if I had a second or third one to tinker with.... maybe exactly what I'd want it to be. I noticed some of the things too that were already mentioned, hubcaps, orange peel, too much white, lame roof...

I got a rebuild kit for my 3 on the tree manual column from Jeffs a while ago and just put it in. The shift collar that came with my kit (die-cast piece the shifter is in) was made in Taiwan and I needed to do quite a bit of grinding and filing to get it to not bind up when it was all bolted...

The indentation you're referring to should line up with the rear edge of the door post. That should give you enough metal to weld on. The big hole on the bottom of the kick panel where the lower fender mount is should just be peeking out from the forward lip of the door post or maybe a 1/4" or...

Got the door post in and moved toward the kick panel.

after the door post was underway, I started removing the cowl rust. Note the adjustable post I rigged up to support the windshield base to the floor crossmember.

not much left. most of the remaining half of the door post was good. I had to make my own inner pieces that the door hinges bolt to.

Cowl on left side was bad also, entire door post, kick panel and floorpan.

Both sides of the cowl area were rusted pretty bad. The base of the windshield frame was bad on the right hand side. so was the kick panel, most of the door post and floorpan

cowl rust repair

Purchased from an older guy in town. Almost the original owner. Turned out to be quite the project rig. A blown head gasket lead to a complete disassembly when a serious case of the coast-crud was discovered.