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If you do strip it down, I'd recommend hot tanking it and/or hitting it with a torch/rosebud for a while to cook as much oil out of the crack/seam as possible before putting a welder on it, otherwise it'll be more porous than a sea sponge when you're done. Like 'bowsher pointed out, you can...

I'm surprised it doesn't drive better than you describe...lots of folks running similar looking geometries without the unsettled handling characteristics through the bumps...and are we talking pot holes or POT HOLES? Could it be a spring rate or damping rate issue with the coilovers? Just from...

It's a farm truck people...the good welds and welders were at the...oh wait, they look pretty normal for any Ford product from the 60's and 70's.

Stock is 3-hole...my 4x4x2 F150 box is 3-hole...I wouldn't mess with it unless you plan to go bigger on the tires, and even then, I'd just add ram assist to take some load off the box and still stick with the 3-hole pattern.

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If it has a TracLoc now, it's very possible that you broke the carrier housing through the ring gear bolts...it's a pretty common failure, especially with 35"+ tires. I did just that in my '77 F150 doing mild wheeling with 35's, and it felt like when you break some teeth off the ring and/or...

My '77 has always driven pretty well, but I did notice the lateral motion with suspension travel much more significantly when I went to softer springs up front...it's kinda weird to hit a bump and feel the body move sideways, but without any significant bump steer. In it's latest iteration, I'm...

Very nice! So is that limited to normal business hours, or will you accept maybe slightly less than sober texts at 2 in the AM on a weekend...asking for a friend.

You're on the right track with replacing the MC...failed booster will usually result in a high, hard pedal assuming a good master cylinder.

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X2...little suicide door like the Toyota FJ's would be super cool and functional in many ways.

The stretch between the door and wheel well in the tub seems to be the "best" from a looks perspective IMO. There are some cars from the 60's and 70's with really long doors that look okay-ish, but I'm not sure that a look an EB can pull off...that said, prove me wrong.

You might get a better response if you can post up some additional details and/or a picture. FWIW, the stud spacing for the master cylinder is 3.4" on the GM units and ~3.2" on the Ford units. The 1974-1978 MII boosters are a dual-Ø7.5" units and have a somewhat unique look to them, so they're...

Paul, historically you're not incorrect...the RPV's were installed in the outlet ports of most master cylinders for the drum brake circuits, but it doesn't really matter where it goes in the brake circuit from a functionality perspective. Maintaining residual pressure on the proportioning valve...

Does a 3/8-24 MIF X 3/8-24 MIF coupler fitting existing? I know that the female version of that is pretty standard, but I've never seen the male version myself. That said, you could probably modify a 3/8-24 MIF X 3/8-24 (-03) AN coupler, machining the AN end to be an inverted flare without too...

Man...talk about raising the EB life-goals bar! Congrats to you both.

Like Yeller pointed out, machined inserts or SRE joint steering solutions would be the two basic options. I just did a kit from Ruff Stuff for GM TRE's and it uses split sleeves in the steering arms on the knuckles, and then a non-split sleeve for the pitman arm, noting that that one must be...

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An inverted flare fitting seals between the conical surfaces between the seat and the plug, so the threads should not be an issue so long as they're functional. Any leaks would be due to flaws in one or both of the sealing surfaces. If the flaw is in the plug, then a new plug might fix it. If...

That's the place. I get all of my brake hoses from them for my business, and I'm pretty sure those crush washers are kind of a specialty bulk item. I bought a few hundred a few years ago, so I don't know if it's still a current stock item or not. FWIW, 13+ inHG of vacuum is not awesome for...