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You could do a "chrome" powder coat...that might hold up better, though it can look a bit plasticky, probably since it is.

Couldn't he? The '76/'77 track bar mount is lower/longer than the earlier versions IIRC, though I'm not sure by how much. I cut mine off and I can't seem to find it laying around to measure it, so it must be in the scrap bin, but it wouldn't be that hard to make a new one to position the...

A head-on picture of your track bar configuration and steering links might help someone see something amiss...

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Which Tom's arms are you considering, the rectangular ones (like the All-4-Fun ones of days past) or the newer tubular versions more similar to the Duff/CAGE units? I run CAGE arms on mine and for what you're doing, they're probably what I would choose since they're half the cost of the Solo...

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That could be part of the issue, if not all of it. Are the other SRE's showing significant wear as well? I only ask since I'm assuming they all have the same miles on them, but any amount of cumulative play/slack in the steering system could be leading to the symptoms you've described.

If we ignore the fact that you're working on an early Bronco for a minute, you essentially have the same size brake calipers and rotors as a 1979-1981 Firebird (3300#-3900#), but only if we assume that those D154 rear calipers are the ones with the integral parking brakes (I can't see the inside...

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Your master cylinder bore size should be sized based on the caliper piston diameters, so while we can make educated guesses all day long, it would be better to know what we're working with. Different rear disc brake kits using the GM metric D154 calipers will supply either the parking brake...

"Darty" could be a few things, but you definitely have some bump steer with the misalignment between your drag link and track bar, though I'd be surprised if that's the whole issue. Toe and caster and even tire air pressure can also play significant roles in how the rig handles at speed. How...

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Caster is pretty locked in by the C-bushings, so while you might gain or lose a tenth of a degree there based on how you clamp the caps, I don't see any way that you could impart a significant change bu just loosening things up. As for the lean, that can be a function of multiple things...

X2 what James said...most things fail in bending, not shear. It was one of the first things they emphasized in enginerding school stress analysis classes when we started to study shear stress and failure analysis. As with anything, there are exceptions, but if you design for bending, shear...

Here are some pics of the clamp I made for my setup, noting it hasn't been fully welded in the mock-up image. I modeled this after one my brother and I made for his Toyota back in the day, and he's never had it slip axially or radially on the tie-rod, but as a clamp, it allows for full range of...

Packaging is tough...I'm in the middle of doing this on a F150 full-width HP D44 with GM TRO, 8" PSC ram-assist, 4x4x2 box, etc, and everything is tight. With that said, anything you can do to buy yourself some extra space between the axle and tie-rod, I would recommend doing. I think one of...

I'd probably use 4.56, 4.88 or 5.13 gears myself, but it depends on your camshaft specs, torque converter, intended use, personal preferences, etc. https://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

X2 on the WH F150 tie-rod option and drag link to match, paired with a track bar riser on the axle and factory pitman arm on the box. That should give you the best outcome with the least cost/work. I'm doing the full custom route on mine with Chevy TRE's, bungs, custom track bar + mount, full...

What box are you running? Tire size? You could gusset things further, but if you're still having some frame movement after you've already reinforced the frame inside and out, then I would suggest adding hydraulic ram-assist and reducing the load on the steering box and frame section to which...

Best guess is that you have a standard NPT plug, not an NPT flush type plug. The difference is that the NPT flush thread run a larger taper than the standard NPT threads. FWIW, standard NPT uses a 3/4" per foot taper, whereas a NPT flush type threads would use a 7/8" per foot taper, causing...