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Also, the only thing I have messed with since it was running good a few months ago is the fast idle cam screw below the choke housing. I’ve turned it different times to get my start up idle higher, then tap the gas to drop it lower like it should. Could this screw affect the fuel/air ratio...

Ah ok....so the passages can only be cleaned by removing and disassembling the carb?

Yes....I probably let it sit too long...maybe a couple months. I always use Stabil but maybe it doesn't do much. I will limp it to the gas station and add fresh gas and see if it fixes it. Doubt it though because I added fresh gas a couple months ago. As fas as jets clogging....It's easy enough...

Yeah crazy. Obviously too much air because closing the choke plate corrects the low rough idle. As one poster said it could also be not enough fuel… the ratio is out of balance. Even though I popped the lid off & cleaned the 2 brass jets under the float, maybe there is another jet that is...

Yes, no change in idle with my finger over the hole.

OK...when I pull the pcv out of the grommet there is not much difference in idle. I think the pcv is good because it's new and the ball rattles inside. If the valve was bad, would the truck run like this? It's an easy part to replace but I don't think that's the problem. When I close the choke...

Agreed,,, usually it stalls when I close the choke. Vacuum at idle fluctuates between 14 and 15....(usually it is steady at 16). I didn't check when choke is closed. I sprayed everywhere....I did find something unusual. When I spray at the pcv valve (where it plugs into the rubber grommet on the...

Thanks....So far I haven't been able to find one....spraying around with carb cleaner and no change in idle.

My 302/auto with 2150 carb is running rough. The carb was rebuilt a few hundred miles ago...was running good after. Let it sit for a couple months, took it out, now rough and stalls if I don't keep my foot into it. I opened up the carb and sprayed the jets...all looked good. Timing is good. Each...

I don't know much about the Holly carb, but the symptoms still sound like something in the carb plugging. Try this: warm up truck, take off air filter. Slowly close the throttle plate and increase the throttle at the same time It will want to die...that's normal...just keep increasing the...

I'm in the middle of replacing all my soft lines with new ones and am wondering the classic "while I'm at it" dilemma. All manual drum brakes....69. Is there a way to clean the H block while the hard lines are removed? Unscrew that end screw? I just want to be sure I'm getting full braking and...

I've had similar problems because mine is a truck that I keep in a different location, so it only gets started every few months. It's ALWAYS been because of the carb (and fuel lacquering up the carb inlets). You might not be cleaning the right parts of the carb.....just replacing gaskets won't...

It looks promising....so there is no rubber? I would order a roll/length with the correct fittings already attached and bend it myself with a tubing bender? Thanks

I'm going to replace the hardlines from my master cylider to the proportioning valve...the rubber is cracking where it meets the metal crimp of the hardline. Drum brakes. I see there are rubber replacement and hardline replacements from the vendors. Does anyone have a preferance? The existing...

awesome...problem fixed. Once I realized I was jumping the wrong contacts, I removed the wheel and jumped the right ones....sure enough the horn worked. I read an old post of someona also getting power to both contacts and I bet he was testing the wrong ones too. I added some dielectric to the...

the contacts I were jumping are neither of those.....they are the 2 contacts on the metal plate, located at 4:00 and 8:00. You have to remove the metal plate (held in place by the big center nut) to get to your pic. But now I will try jumping the two in the red circle. Thanks for posting the...

Oh wow...that could be why my troubleshooting isn't working....I've been jumping the ones just under the button...not the two on the right that rub on the bottom of the wheel. So if I jump those, I should get the horn?

Also to be clear, when I say I have power on both contacts, these are the 2 small contacts under the horn ring/plastic bezel that are connected to small plastic tabs...not the 2 longer contacts (1/2" or so long) behind the plate in the column.

I think you are right...yellow should be hot. I don't know how to post pics...I have some but don't know how to make a link. So as DirtDonk mentioned...right out the gate something is off since I have power to both contacts. Odd since I haven't worked on this horn for 10 years. I will say that...

OK...I found the wires exiting the column....mine has different conectors (1969)....one blue plastic onnector per wire. The connectors do not separate as far as I can tell. All look good. I can follow the blue/yellow stripe wire going from the connector into the back of the fuse box. My user...