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I grew up in the "north" Detroit area. I saw that truck when I was home for Christmas this past year. I can tell from the photo that it was taken on Woodward Avenue in Ferndale (just north of Detroit). Did you take that pic?

Here is mine (matches the front seats)

I think Don is on to something! I bought these mags one druken night on ebay and quickly fit them on my rear drum while I was bleeding the brakes. I noticed the studs were about an inch and the mag was an inch thick. My initial reaction was "the studs are too short".

Will I need a hydraulic press to get the new ones in?

How big of a job is it remove and replace the wheel studs? My current ones are too short for my recently purchased slotted mags. Is this something I can easily do myself or am I better off taking it to a local garage??

Chuck, Already got a response from Jason (at 9:30 at night!!). That's why I spend my money at BC!!

Chuck, I hope you remind Jason of this tommorrow when he tells you about an email sent from some idiot in Houston who couldn't figure out how to install your exhaust hanger!!

You got my vote for poster of the year, Wolf. Just got back from my test drive and I think I got it!! I'll look you up in a few days when the next thing breaks!!

I used the vacuum gauge and had to turn the distributor about 1/2 in clockwise. The reading is at 18 and holding steady. Does that sound right or do I have too much advance?

Thanks Wolf - What will a vac gauge run me and how difficult will it be to figure out how to use it??

I used the "thumb over the first cylinder hole" technique to try and get the timing close. I got the truck started and was able to drive it to the gas station (mile and a half) and it cut out when I turned in. It would not start to save my life! As I waited for a tug back home, I filled it up...

That's what I wanted to hear - thanks!

I have been searching this site for hours and have read a thousand posts... I replaced my oil pump. I decided to pull the dizzy to prime the pump. I marked the cap and rotor, primed the pump, went to reinstall the distributor and realized there were about 4 black marks for the rotor EXACTLY...

I'll trace it tomorrow - YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME!! Please post anything else you think may help and I'll report back on Monday. Thanks again for the lessons in Broncos! Jon Kay

I have the original ignition switch harness (or at least the harness that I removed) in my hand as I type and it has ONE red/blue coming from the harness. I just checked the wiring diagram for the 75-77 that I have been using and it does show two - like you say. The diagram shows a green/red...

After reading over these posts, have I screwed up by by-passing the plug at the firewall? Everyone keeps talking about a second red/blue wire. oleguy 74 says one goes to the "s" terminal (which I have replaced because it was smoked about 10 inches on the engine side of the firewall as well)...

Viperwolf, The wire was burnt down at the ignition switch harness, but not the solenoid. I replaced the harness but should I also replace the ignition switch? I did not replace it because I am getting power on the start, I just can't get it to turn over. I took this as the ignition switch...

Any idea on what caused the short in the first place? This is my biggest concern, right now. I have no idea what caused the short as I just returned from a 700 mile trip and the truck was in my garage at the time of the problem. The burnt wire I found was going to the "s" terminal. The...

oleguy74, I have not been able to get it to turn over since the burned wire unless the carb is saturated with starter fluid. Then, it will turn over for just a second and then die. I haven't gotten started long enough to see if it is a run/start igntion issue.

100% manual (thanks!). There is no question about the electrical issues, Broncobowsher. That, obviously, was one of the areas I got cheap on in the rebuild and I am kicking myself now! If I can get it started I'm taking it to the guy who wired it for me to find out what the deal is!