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So, I notched the body mount and used the factory lower back hole to index the box so that the sector shaft is now vertical. Cycled the suspension, and she clears. I still might move the box forward for some more clearance. Thanks for your guys help, much appreciated. Sent from my SM-G998U...

I think I just need to move it 1.75" and everything will be happy. Core support will definitely need to be cut, and same with the body mount. I've got no problem hacking shit up in the name of progress. First, I'm going to try and locate the box on the back bottom hole and make the sector...

I was thinking that as well. But if I drop the drag link down to the tie rod, instead of the upper part of the knuckle, I might gain a little. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Has anyone pushed the 4x4x2 box forward? I know the body mount and core support will have to be cut. Just curious because I'm getting into a binding issue on the steering links. If I push the box forward about 1.75 inches, I can gain some up travel. Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Solo has been testing leaf packs for a while for the EB. I love the fact that they have seen a market for us go fast guys. I spoke with them a month or two ago about it, and they needed to test another pack. This is the one that worked. It's a 2.5" lift, pulls 16" of travel, and was tested with...

The accelerator pump is just for the initial hit of throttle. It sprays more fuel to accommodate more air. Sounds like a jetting issue, or possibly vacum leak leaning it out. But my guess is the jets may be to small. Check the burn on the plugs, that should tell you exactly what's going on...

So here's my dilemma. I'll be running a 77 f250 d44, with solo motorsports radius arms. I'm trying to set up the weld on wedges, and when I tighten the radius arms up onto the wedges, it wants to pull the wedges inboard. If I keep the wedges from moving, it pushes the axle to the passenger side...