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Lizard skin can be sanded smooth and top coated with primer and paint. So in theory you could spray the outside with a thermal barrier then sand it smooth and paint it. It does add thickness and weight though.

With the recess around the opening I’m thinking it uses an o-ring to seal. So it really could be any thread metric or standard then have an o-ring against the hex flats on the fitting.

What kind of baffling do you have inside?

Hmm. I’ve replaced a few motors and they all had the same part number on the box. But these are actual truck kits that I have done not the universal kit that you get with the Tom’s kit.

I’ve had a couple sets of amp steps in the past. They’re a nice kit. The motors are the same for all the steps so it’s easy to get replacements if one fails. One bit of maintenance they never talk about though is the gears aren’t sealed in the drive step. So you will want to take the motor off...

Vintage air makes a nice complete kit. They have good customer service in my experience. I just order the kits through summit racing since it’s easiest for me and I can tag on a few smaller things and have it all shipped free. Restomod air has a very nice compact kit but requires more work and...

The reinforcement goes between the bolt head and the pan to help distribute the load over a greater distance. I’m sure you’ll find bumps at every bolt hole on the gasket side. Make sure you hammer them back to flat so the gasket has the best chance for sealing. Also the longer you can wait...

https://www.fourcrownsinc.com/product-page/1966-1977-ford-bronco-jump-seats

I just replaced a set of plastic bushings on a 442. Those might be the ticket you need to keep the sunvisors tight to the smaller rod.

There are radiator paints out there. I usually just use engine paint. Just don’t lay it on thick. The tanks don’t matter but just lightly spray the core just enough to change the colour.

Couple things I can think of. You might want to reduce the spacer behind the fan so it’s a bit further out into the shroud. You may not be able to though due to clearances I can’t see from you picture. I would also look at closing off the gap between the grille and rad support to force all the...

Check the outer register on the axle. If there isn’t a chamfer on it you’ll need to add one. The drum inside doesn’t have a square corner and it will prevent the rotor from fully seating against the axle flange.

Rubber or plastic plug will work just fine. Other option would be some button head bolts using the original backing plates. Either way I’d add a bit of sealant and make sure the edge of the hole has paint to help keep it from rusting.

How old is your suspension? Your brakes sound like they’re working fine. My guess would be old shocks or weak springs.

That will work. Just make little movements with the steering wheel. i Would put a straight edge on your frame down to the floor then carefully measure to the backing plate close to the middle. Tires bulge differently. And fender flares will never be the same. Looks are secondary to driving. It’s...

Not sure. You could be able to hold it up beside the existing one and imagine where the drag link would be. If it makes it parallel with the track bar then it’s the right one.

Definitely need to check the timing. You should also check for vacuum leaks. And as mentioned lean can cause symptoms similar to rich. Also do you have the vacuum advanced hooked up? Do you know if the mechanical advance is free in the distributor? do you know what curve is in the distributor?

More caster will help drive ability at high speed. I would try rotating the tires to see if the osculation changes. Slight imbalance or a bent wheel can cause that.

You need a dropped pitman arm as well. Having the dropped trackbar bracket makes the track bar and drag link run at different angles. That will help a bunch.

I would use caution on using the body for measurements unless you know both fenders are the same. Using the frame as your point of reference will ensure the axle is properly centered on the frame.