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I bought the 2" lift leafs from Toms,it was an eleven pack. Way to stiff for me the ride quality was terrible, i removed 3 leafs , I got my desiredride hieght and a way nicer ride. The Bilstiens made a big difference too
I do have the new one but it only has the constant power option. I will look for a dual mode one. I have added new circuits for stereo, lights, etc. For that little one i was going a fusable link.
My question, do i need two panels?? One for constant power circuits and one for switched power circuts that only get power when key is on. The stock panel has both. The genaric Amazon fuse panel only has the constant power option.
Thanks
There are certainly options, i personally would use the recommended spider kit from comp cams. I would want the the block out for drilling an tapping. But thats just me.
Heads don't have to come off to install roller lifters, but do you have a roller block. You cannot just slip a roller cam and lifters in a vintage block. If you choose a roller set up you should change the valve springs for sure. If you plan to modify the block to accept a roller cam the engine...
Don't go to wild, i put in a hydraulic Comp Cams RV cam with 260 duration 494 lift, its a common grind gives you good bottom end and a very distinctive idle, you can tell right away it has a aftermarket cam. I bought cam lifters and push rods.
Follow the break in instructions closely.
You can use recent sales of similar shape vehicles to establish value, bills and reciepts, an appraisal will also help.
The negligent parties insurance is only responsible for the actual cash value, you need to produce as much evidence as possible to establish that value.
I didn't use Zmat but i did use a sound deadener. Honestly not sure it makes a big difference for noise. I seam sealed first. Keeping the metal dry is important.
My one cousin was in Moose Jaw where he spent 2 years with the RCAF Snowbirds demonstration team. The other in Gander, they both finished their careers in Comox.