T Bird calipers

wepuckett · Apr 28, 2017

Ok will be redoing the brakes on my 77 Dana 44 and have read a lot about T bird callipers and was wondering what the pros and cons of going with them are? Also if I go that route will I need to do anything special or extra to get them to work?

Oh and since this is my first time doing brakes on a D44 any special tools I need to order while ordering all the parts? Any things I need to watch out for, as the most recent brake job I have done is rear brakes on my 03 Dodge Ram?

Thanks
William

SteveL · Apr 28, 2017

They bolt right on but they require different soft lines. Bc broncos has braided steel ones. Also I think you're supposed to use new mounting bolts that hold em in the bracket.

JSBX · Apr 28, 2017

I have them on my Bronco running 36" tires with non power brakes and I have no problem stopping. When I bought my calipers they had a lip that stuck up around the hole where the banjo bolts goes into the caliper and would not let the crush washer seal off. I ground the lip off on both calipers and that solved the problem. I am using the ss braided lines from BC Broncos.

Apogee · Apr 28, 2017

The T-bird calipers have a 3.11" [79mm] piston diameter, which equates to an effective piston area of 7.59 sq inches. The standard F150/BB/EB front calipers use a 2.875" [73mm] piston diameter, which equates to an effective piston area of 6.49 sq inches. Thus, moving to the larger caliper increases the piston area by 17%, which would also increase the clamping force and brake torque by the same amount if you assume no other changes are made. With that said, your pedal travel will also increase by the same amount, 17%.

For arguments sake, if you're currently running the factory Ford setup with the factory 2.875" caliper pistons and 1" bore master cylinder, "upgrading" to a T-bird caliper and 1.125" bore master cylinder will actually net less brake torque/more pedal effort, since the MC bore size change is a 26% difference, more than offsetting the caliper piston area difference.

IMHO, the T-bird calipers are a great way to shift your brake bias more towards the front brakes relative to the rear disc or drums brakes you're running, which if you have issues with the rear brakes locking up prematurely, may be what you rig needs. Otherwise, when it comes to brakes, the goal should be a balanced system that stops the rig safely every time...how you get there is up to you and there are many ways to skin this proverbial cat.

Justafordguy · Apr 28, 2017

Apogee said:
IMHO, the T-bird calipers are a great way to shift your brake bias more towards the front brakes relative to the rear disc or drums brakes you're running, which if you have issues with the rear brakes locking up prematurely, may be what you rig needs. Otherwise, when it comes to brakes, the goal should be a balanced system that stops the rig safely every time...how you get there is up to you and there are many ways to skin this proverbial cat.

In your opinion what is the next step to stop the rear from locking up during emergency stops if the T-Bird calipers didn't totally fix it? Maybe an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear?

Apogee · Apr 28, 2017

Justafordguy said:
In your opinion what is the next step to stop the rear from locking up during emergency stops if the T-Bird calipers didn't totally fix it? Maybe an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear?

I think an adjustable proportioning valve is a good addition for a lot of non-stock applications, including EB's, since everyone's setup is going to handle a bit differently. I like that they allow one to maximize the rear brake contribution (within reason) versus the fixed OE-style units that are what they are. In my experience, most of the "factory" style proportioning valves err towards the side of caution, and generally underutilize the rear brakes under most braking conditions.

Once you start changing CoG height, spring rates, etc, all bets are off, hence the benefit of the adjustable prop valves (APVs), and APVs are not meant to compensate for major component mismatches.

Tobin

SteveL · Apr 29, 2017

Justafordguy said:
In your opinion what is the next step to stop the rear from locking up during emergency stops if the T-Bird calipers didn't totally fix it? Maybe an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear?

Bc also sells a lbs valve that helps with lock up to rear brakes on a panic stop.

wepuckett · Apr 30, 2017

So are there any changes that have to be made to bolt the calipers on, I noticed specialty brake lines, if that is correct? Part of why I am asking is because I am in the middle of rebuilding everything and now would be the best time to change over. Are the bolts special to the tbird calipers also?

I get the ratio difference, it always helps and will cause more fluid to be needed, which is why I am asking if a different master is needed?

SteveL · Apr 30, 2017

I think the bolts are the same but it's one of those you're not supposed to re-use. I've re-used em in a pinch but I know they snap easy. Use a torque wrench if you have one. I don't have a before and after on the lbs valve since I did 4 wheel power disc in one swap with the lbs. I got tired of blowing boosters so I swapped the 66 to hydroboost. It stops great. I've got a hydroboost on the shelf for the 72.

Banjer Picker · May 1, 2017

JSBX said:
I have them on my Bronco running 36" tires with non power brakes and I have no problem stopping. When I bought my calipers they had a lip that stuck up around the hole where the banjo bolts goes into the caliper and would not let the crush washer seal off. I ground the lip off on both calipers and that solved the problem. I am using the ss braided lines from BC Broncos.

Ditto!! Work great!

Justafordguy · May 1, 2017

SteveL said:
Bc also sells a lbs valve that helps with lock up to rear brakes on a panic stop.

That's the first I've heard of this type of device. Sounds interesting, I wonder if it really works?

toddz69 · May 1, 2017

Justafordguy said:
That's the first I've heard of this type of device. Sounds interesting, I wonder if it really works?

I've had one sitting on my shelf for years and been tempted to plumb it back in just to try it out. I had it in years ago but don't recall doing enough testing to know if it worked as advertised or not.

The LBS was developed by Stewart Racing Products (cooling system gurus).

I found an old article on it here:

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chassis_suspension/lbs.htm

It's now sold by DPI (Dan Press Industries):

http://www.dpiracingproducts.com/lock-resistant-brake-system-lbs/

Todd Z.

Monster Mike · May 30, 2017

wepuckett said:
So are there any changes that have to be made to bolt the calipers on, I noticed specialty brake lines, if that is correct? Part of why I am asking is because I am in the middle of rebuilding everything and now would be the best time to change over. Are the bolts special to the tbird calipers also?

I get the ratio difference, it always helps and will cause more fluid to be needed, which is why I am asking if a different master is needed?

Id run your current MC and if you experience longer pedal travel and the front brakes wont/cant lock up then you will want to switch out the MC. We have tested this recently and have an MC we like that compliments the T-bird caliper well.

Good luck!

hogfan · May 30, 2017

The banjo bolts are 7\16 24 if i remember right. Bc bronco has them,as far as the line , i just drilled mine out and ground down the flange. As far as everything else its bolt on . I could not tell a difference when i put them on , but when i did hydroboost a world of difference. If you drill you line out blow the hell out of it to clean all the metal shavings out

Monster Mike · May 31, 2017

hogfan said:
The banjo bolts are 7\16 24 if i remember right. Bc bronco has them,as far as the line , i just drilled mine out and ground down the flange. As far as everything else its bolt on . I could not tell a difference when i put them on , but when i did hydroboost a world of difference. If you drill you line out blow the hell out of it to clean all the metal shavings out

That's correct it's a 7/16 x 24. James Duff has the T bird calipers and hydraulic hoses now too. We grind down the flange before they are sent out.

For those who don't swap to hydroboost and don't experience a better brake I would recommend swapping out the MC. We sell one we like that compliments those T-bird calipers nicely.

chuck · May 31, 2017

I started using the 1 1/8" bore M/C with all our brake systems when we started using the T-bird caliper. My research found the 79 Lin. came with the big calipers (T-bird) and 4 wheel disc brakes and the 1 1/8" bore M/C.

wepuckett · May 31, 2017

chuck said:
I started using the 1 1/8" bore M/C with all our brake systems when we started using the T-bird caliper. My research found the 79 Lin. came with the big calipers (T-bird) and 4 wheel disc brakes and the 1 1/8" bore M/C.

Does that still work fine with disc front and drum rear? As on a some what budget build and sticking with drums for now.

chuck · Jun 1, 2017

Yes it works fine with disc/drum and disc/disc. The drum/drum works the same as no power but easier.

T Bird calipers

wepuckett

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SteveL

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JSBX

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Apogee

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Justafordguy

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Apogee

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SteveL

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wepuckett

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SteveL

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Banjer Picker

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Justafordguy

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toddz69

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Monster Mike

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hogfan

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chuck

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wepuckett

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chuck

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