1977 Steering linkage Ch**y TRO or Heim

[BroncoinAlaska]

Looking to replace my mangled inverted Y steering on my 1977 Ranger.
Here is the specs on the 1977
Front Axle: Dana 44 Original 1977 Brakes and knuckles
Wheels: 15x10 Slotted mags with 35" Cooper STT's
Miselanious: 3.5" Duff Monster suspension system w/ drop pitman arm.

Bronco use: 80% raod 20% off road light wheeling

I am leaning towards the Ch**y TRO from http://extremecustomparts.com/i-361167-tie-rod-drag-link-dana-44-1976-1977-bronco-1-1-2-d-o-m.html
Will I be able to run the tie rod over with the 77 knuckles?
What about spacers?

What are my options for heims? Stonecrusher?

 

[Dude seriously]

I replaced the inverted Y on my 76 with heims mounted on top of the knuckles. The result was better clearance at the rims where the backspacing on those pesky 76/77 knuckles is tight, the steering feels tighter and smoother, and it tracks better overall. Other than knowing I will have to replace the heims more frequently than the TRE type system I don't see a downside.

The argument for using the Chevy TRE is just as strong though. I've got several friends running that system on their rigs and it works well. I would say use whatever system you like better or have better access to parts for.

 

[JohnJohn]

I have the BC bronco hemi TRO on my 77. When i had 15 inch wheels i had no problems but did put a track bar riser on with no drop pitman.

 

[broncnaz]

A lot fo it depends on what backspacing the wheels have. Have a buddy that just did a ch#vy TRE swap on his 76 and the wheels cleared no spacers needed. Personally I'd go with Tie rod ends becasue they are greaseable and said grease helps keep dirt/water ect from entering allowing for a longer life.
Its always funny to hear people say that there setup is so great tighter smoother ect as 99% of the time they were replacing worn out parts anyways.

 

[needabronco]

I have the Chevy 1 ton tro, and while it's great, I'm constantly replacing tie rod end boots, and I've noticed it's a very common thing. I've been considering swapping to heims simply for ease of trail repairs, I know a few guys that use the same part number'd heim for all ends and can repair any broken tie rod/drag link without a ton of spare parts.

 

[av bronco]

Ive got bulletproof, going on 4 years and still tite as new, my buddy has the bc bronco setup and is very clean the way the drag link is attached to the tierod.

 

[Dude seriously]

I have the Chevy 1 ton tro, and while it's great, I'm constantly replacing tie rod end boots, and I've noticed it's a very common thing. I've been considering swapping to heims simply for ease of trail repairs, I know a few guys that use the same part number'd heim for all ends and can repair any broken tie rod/drag link without a ton of spare parts.

That is what I did. All four heims are the same, I did not use LH/RH threads on different ends. I carry two spare heims in the tool kit and I guess it's Murphy's law that I've never needed to use one because a spare is on board.

The BC Broncos tapered heim stud is a great way to attach your heims. I would reccomend using them if you go the heim route.

 

[jrcflash]

I have the extreme custom fab setup on my 76-77 D44. The tie rod ends are beefy and require wheels with no more than about 3.25" backspacing to clear. The first set of wheels I tried required spacers. Now I have slots with just over 3" BS. I am very happy with this setup. The only suggestion I have if you go this route is to remove your pitman arm and use a drill press for reaming. I did not and my reamer did not go in exactly 'square'.

 

[Madgyver]

i got chevy TROs on my 77

 

[mortimersnerd]

I went with Chevy TREs mainly due to serviceability (grease), cost and parts availability. Try finding a heim in the middle of nowhere.

 

[needabronco]

Mortimer, the 'catch' to that one is, if you need a new Chevy passenger side tie rod, you have to also have a reamer in order to install it. Try that in the middle of nowhere?

 

[PhantomEB]

Have that as a SPARE!

 

[av bronco]

Im not understanding this, if you break a tierod end the knuckle is already reamed out, why would you have to do it again? btw I run hems, just curious. (edit- just realized the factory drag link hooks to the passenger t/r- brain fart)

 

[mortimersnerd]

Mortimer, the 'catch' to that one is, if you need a new Chevy passenger side tie rod, you have to also have a reamer in order to install it. Try that in the middle of nowhere?

I'll be carrying one of the cheap $20 chinese ones pre-drilled in the spares bin. Admittedly, you could do the same for a heim, but you're out more money. Realistically, if you break either of these you're in big trouble anyway.