203/205 frame clearance

[Texanferever]

I am knee deep in a NP435/203/205 install, with already having my current set up out of the way. I have read a couple of posts about pushing the drivetrain over to the passenger side to gain clearance to clock the 205 flat. If I don't move the drivetrain over, would I need to notch out a piece of the frame to gain the clearance?

I obviously don't want the 205 to hang any lower than the D20 did, just trying to prepare before I get everything mocked in place. either way I will build two cross members a skid plate.

 

[GWBronco]

I just went through this, with the same set up. PM me your number and I will try to take some pictures and send you. It is a great set up. Mine is clocked flat and the 205 is higher than the D20 was. I had to cut my floor board a lot to make room for the 205 and the driveshaft travel, so you may not want to clock it as high as I did. I did not notch my frame either. It is close to the drivers side but fits. I have no body lift either.

 

[nvrstuk]

GW is correct in mentioning driveline issues...

You can get the 205 as high as the D20 without having to notch the frame...remember if you clock the 205 so it is tucked above the frame that you will almost be guaranteed front ds angle complications as the front output shaft on the t-case gets so high that now your ds angle on playground starts off steep and wont allow full droop without destroying your ds ujoints and/or cv.

I don't know what adapter you're using but with the correct clocking and by rai as ing or lowering the end of the tcase you ought to be able to dial in the height you want.

 

[pcf_mark]

I do not go wheeling but I did clock my NP205 up as high as I could without hitting the floor. It is level when viewed from behind. I did not need to notch the frame but I did add mongo bracket to support the rear of that heavy beast.

nvrstuk is right even with my moderate clock my front driveshaft is at an awkward angle and is in the same space as I would like my shifter linkage. It took some doing to make it work but it works like stock now. If you get too high you going to have some trouble getting headers, shifter, driveshaft all in that space because the need to cross each other.

 

[nvrstuk]

In my build thread there are several references to the clearance issues with raising the 205 case too high.

I'll point out several..
Floor clearance, shift linkage issues, driveline angle issues, front pinion not pointing anywhere close to pointing at the t-case output shaft, maxxing out front driveshaft ujoint and/or cv angle at much less than full droop because at rest the angles are so bad... last but not least...raising the t-case of course affects the rear driveshaft and almost everything comes into play again...

I am absolutely maxxed out with 34 deg front and back at a full 16" droop.

I had to lower my t-case 2 full inches to make all my angles work...I'd spent an entire day moving linkages, etc then realized too much of a good thing is too much!!

Bottom of my 205 is above the bolts for my 4 link....

 

[GWBronco]

I forgot to mention some of the issues above. I am running the short adapter from Jeds Machine and 1410 joints. I am not running a CV anymore. I had to clearance my yokes to get the full travel, but the bottom of the 205 is clocked just above the bottom of my frame. I went 2 into 1 exhaust on the passenger side to make the exhaust work. and as mentioned I had to cut my drivers side floor board for the yoke and the driveshaft. I basically have an angled piece of metal from the shelf the seat sits on to the middle of the floorboard towards the firewall. It was a lot of work but what I wanted and allow me to have the 205 above the frame. The floorboard rework also gave me enough room for the triple stick shifters. I also used the stock mounting holes on the side of the 205 to mount to the top of the frame for extra support for the 205 beast. However you end up doing it the gearing is worth it. Even with 43's I now have 3rd gear launches for wheel speed.

 

[KyleQ]

Yikes - that sure sounds like a ton of work, but the 1410 drive shafts are so worth it. No more lifting when I come off the ground.

 

[nvrstuk]

Kyle!!! Is that pic the underside of YOUR rig? I've never seen it so clean under there in any pic you've posted! Nice ujoint clearance

 

[KyleQ]

Kyle!!! Is that pic the underside of YOUR rig? I've never seen it so clean under there in any pic you've posted! Nice ujoint clearance

Haha - I power washed it for HOURS with no engine or transmission in it, made a difference

It is usually a dirty pig - it was undercoated some time ago and mud sticks to it like crazy.

I ground the crap out of those 1410 flanges to get it to clear on full droop - more than I wanted to, but I doubt I'll be breaking it, so I'll only have to do it once. One thing I love about the Cage arms it they give awesome front driveshaft protection.

 

[Texanferever]

Not having to do any frame notching is great news. I am trying to get this done by the first weekend of Feb for an ice breaker run.

Now I am trying to decide the easiest way to mock it up, take out the 203 to 205 adapter to weld it, and put it back in. I think I have decided to take out the output shaft of the 203 so I can store those 15 needle bearings separately until final assembly. Put the 203 adapter back on with two bolts holding it together then mock up the 205 with that adapter on then mark orientation, pull both adapters off to weld and reinstall.

Unless someone had a better idea...I am open to suggestions as I have a 435 transmission so there are bearings that will fall out between the 435 and the 203....and I don't want to install/take out/install all three pieces at the same time.

 

[nvrstuk]

Texanfever...
Mock it up exactly the way it's going in with tack welds, then permenant marker lines to show exactly clocking for a trail fit.

IF you don't have a trial fit with all components in the exact spot you want them in, it can be a royal put a when you find out that 1/4" of clearance you were SURE you had...isn't there and you are starting over. Doesn't matter how many times you have to install or remove trannys or adapters...100% mock up, then you only do it once.


Good luck..

 

[Pa PITT]

OK Guys ... SORRY BUT I GUESS I'LL MUDDY UP THE WATER.
WHERE do these adapters come from . 203 & 205 adapter.
Did I miss something are you putting in a doubler set up. 203 & 205 both.
I have an OLD 1980 Bronco NP435 + a 205 I really like the way that old setup shifts.
But years ago I gave up on putting it into one of our 66 to 77 Broncos due to everyone saying it had to cut the frame.
But I'd still like to use a setup NP435 & THE 205. I just want 4wheel drive not a doubler heavy crawler.
... I hope my question is clear. Thanks .

 

[nvrstuk]

Here's a 205. It's behind my KluneV doubler but that doesn't make it any wider.

Type into your search bar "203/205 doubler" and you will have enough reading material for a day or two. Good luck.

 

[Texanferever]

Got it all mocked up today...really painful with one set of hands and a transmission jack that doesn't go as far as I need it to.

Everything was in pretty snug, so I pulled the 205 (after measuring for driveshafts) and will weld it up tomorrow. After I put the cable shifter hardware on I will bolt it back up and start on the crossmembers.

Thanks for the help.