2100 carb questions (easy ones) ----UPDATE-Where To Pull Power From?----

[bknbronco]

I didnt want to continue to jack a previous choke thread so ill start my own.

So first off look at my pic and tell me how it works! Is this a automatic choke? I have a cable in my dash but dont see where it hooks up to. Is the cable not gona hook up?

I see the fitting where a tube would hook up to, but where does the tube go from there? Looks like my exhaust manafold may have a area but it dont have a fitting like the carb.

Also what wire hooks to that spade termanal?

There is also 2 hose fittings you see in the pic. The one to the bottom right i have going to the distributer. Correct? And where does the upper left one go to?

Im having my carb rebuilt soon so i want to get it hooked back up right so i can start my motor for the first time!

 

[red hot71]

The picture you have is a auto choke and this set-up doesn't use the manual choke you have in your dash. To hook up the auto choke if you look at the picture you have at about 11:00 on the black choke housing there's two screws to the left of those two screws there a tube at about a 45* angle and you see it starts inside of the carb it start there to provide filtered air for the choke stove system. From there a short piece of rubber hose (2" long) connects to a metal tube that runs down into the top of the exhaust manifold which heats the air, from there a new metal tube leaves the manifold and is routed into the brass fitting that at about 8:00 off the black choke housing.

Its very important to run this stove system in a closed loop so that the auto choke dosent suck dirty air into it,that fitting at 8:00 has a slite vacume to it so if it left open dirt will be drawn in and the choke will never work proper. The black choke cap also has power to be run to it and it should be hooked up to Ing. switched power and not power that runs off Acc. side of the key switch.

Varies venders sell the stove system (new tubing) for stock manifolds. If you are running headers I've made my own system out of 1/4" soft copper tubing and routed it down onto a header tube and clamped it to the tube (to pick-up heat from that tube)added a 180* sweep at the bottom and routed it back into that fitting at 8:00 and it worked perfect, I've never had or need the electic choke like yours have,so it might be needed.

Or if your choke cable is still in tact it should be routed inside the engine compartment someware you can convert back if you have the parts from the old carb. If you don't have the parts I think I have all the parts if interested,but again if the cable is missing or cut off then the auto choke would be the easiest way to go.

The distirbuter hook up should be at about 5:00 of the choke housing down lower at about were it bolts on to the manifold

 

[Monster Mike]

hmmm is it factory for the cap to have a spade on it for the heat choke assembly? looks like a hybrid that the po created. a heat/electric choke. kinda curious whats underneath the cap

 

[red hot71]

Another update; If the electic choke is stock Ford its considered electic assisted and it takes less then 12v it hooks to the alt. stator for power and you need to run the complete choke stove system. If its aftermarket (holley)it will interchange but it runs off 12-15v (Ing. switched) and with that system it is self contained and you block the fitting off at 8:00 and the stove system is not used.

All this good stuff you can get from http://www.network54.com/Forum/88781/it has alot of stuff in regards to the 2100 2150 &4100 autolites

 

[bknbronco]

I have the cable and it looks fine. I would think the manual choke would be the easyest way to go and the most reliable, but maybe im wrong. Does a properly operating auto choke work well? I live in minnesota and it is cold like 9 months of the year!

Should i run the tubing and the power wire and see if it works? If it does work ill use it until i see a need to change it.
Or should i find the manual choke parts and put the cable back in?

Is there a easy way to check to see if this old choke even works? Can i run power to it and see it do something? I wouldnt need the tubing to test the operation of it right? It would just sense cold air and choke it?

 

[bknbronco]

Any more info from you ausome guys would be ausome. Im so excited to get this fired up. Its been 15 years!

 

[red hot71]

http://www.network54.com/Forum/88781/ This web site has a lot of info on it my previous attemp to post it comes up wrong. I don't think you need the electic choke option if you can find a early choke cap with the sping inside maybe that would be easier? If you use what you have then the choke stove has to be hooked up and power to the electic choke has to pull power from the alt. stator. The stove tubing can be made from 1/4"soft copper and if you have stock manifold you can rig it up and clamp it accross the manifold it will get plenty hot to work. I know that its going to look hokey but it will work and it will work in the cold.

Other things on the auto choke is there's a small piston inside the housing and it can get fouled if that stove has been run not hooked up, you can't realy oil it because it see's the heat from the stove and it gets hot so it has to work freely without oil so look at that also.

Do you have or know the history of the carb you have,if its stock and the tag is there it should say someting like D1BF (mines a 71)or if the tags gone on the lower divers corner were it bolts on to the manifold it should be stamped D1BF (tag #) the size of the carb. is cast on the front driver side bowl mines 1.08 thats stock bronco if yours is larger then its off a 351,400 390 and if so it not going to work proper on the small block. Other things I read is if its a motorcraft carb its a factory replacement carb,if its a autolite its the carb that came from the factory (tag). If the tags or the stamped numbers are missing or wrong but it is a 1.08 it probley will still work.

If its looks sound and a 1.08 and the choke works freely I'd start by bolting it on and hooking up the stove for the choke and see what happens. If old gas has dryed up inside its probley going to need a parts gasket kit and a good cleaning.The worst thing that you can do is let the carbs dry out after sitting for long periods of time,because of piss poor gas these days.

There are about a 1/2 dozen people accross the country that know what and how to rebuild these carbs and make'em run and run right. I learned that about 10 years ago when I had one built for me it was a 4100 autolite 4BBL. and when I got it back and I saw the light,best starting,good gas milage and great offroad manners. The 2BBL can be made to run just as good.

 

[red hot71]

I missed this the last time 15 YEARS, you sound like me it was late 95 or late 96 for me and with a little luck, couple months and mine will fire for the first time with a new 4100 4BBL.

 

[bknbronco]

Thanks. I dont have a tag so i will check the stamping and see what i actually have. I got a rebuild kit and am waiting for a guy to pick up up from me and he will dunk it in cleaner and rebuild it. Ill look at the auto choke inside and see how it looks and go from there. Sounds like i can get that choke to work pretty easly and if not can a guy just buy the stock manual choke parts since i already have the cable?

 

[bknbronco]

Other things on the auto choke is there's a small piston inside the housing and it can get fouled

Ok so i looked and found the 1.08 stamped on it. I cant fint FoMoCo or autolite anyware though. I took off the cap and the piston looks nice and clean.

There is a coil spring that hooks to a lever that opens the top flappers. When i took it off it didnt seem to be wound either way at all (so no spring pressure). Is that ok or is there suposed to be some pre load on the spring?

 

[broncnaz]

The carbs were never marked autolite or motorcraft If they were it wasnt until the late 70's then it was a 2150 model. Autolite was the orginal producer then motorcraft took over like in the early 70's there is no differance in them even the Holley marked carbs are the same but they are the rebuilt ones.
The choke needs some spring pressure. which way is up to you you can mmost likely block the heat tube and just use the electric part but you will probably have to tinker with it to get it to work.
As for manual choke parts well you might be able to find a aftermarket kit that will swap it over. or if real lucky score original parts but they are hard to find

 

[bknbronco]

----update----

UPDATE...................So i got the carb rebuilt, ran new 1/4" copper lines to and from the exhaust manifold.

So where exactly do i run power from, for the choke?

The guy who rebuilt the carb said to tap into a "IGNITION ON" wire. A earlyer reply says to tap into the alternator stator (for less than 12v.). Im not sure what a alt stator is. And i cant exactly find a IGN. ON wire except for maybe a wire that is coming out of the voltage regulator (green or white, but the power to both gets cut out when key moves to start)

Which is it? And where do i tie into under the hood?

 

[bknbronco]

Ok so i found the "STA" terminal on the alternator. I think this is where the factory choke hooks up to on a stock type alternator?

Someone tell me that im correct!?:?