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3 Point Seat Belt Mount locations? - Bailie Bilt Cage

davisjstone

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Does anyone have pictures of how you've mounted 3 point seat belts to a bailie belt family cage? Or would 4 point's be recommended for the rear which attach to the stock floor location?

I have the Toms front/rear seats (headrests) that will be going in. The small kiddos will be in the back, one is still in a car seat for the next year or two.

I've scoured the forum and see lots of different discussions. Some say just drill and through bolt. Some say a welded bung is the only way to go, which looks nice but unfortunately I can't weld. I can phone a friend to help with a weld if that the best option.

I want to have a plan before I powder coat the cage.
 
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Yeller

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There is usually a tab with a hole in it on the B pillar for that purpose. Not sure how long you’ve had the cage, it used to be optional. Otherwise a tab, bung or even a clamp must be used. If considering a clamp here is a clamp option From Ruff Stuff
 
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davisjstone

davisjstone

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There is usually a tab with a hole in it on the B pillar for that purpose. Not sure how long you’ve had the cage, it used to be optional. Otherwise a tab, bung or even a clamp must be used. If considering a clamp here is a clamp option From Ruff Stuff
It has a tab for the front seats but seems really high.

Those clamps are nice. Maybe a silly question but could I use the threaded inserts in the clamp alone, or would I still need to drill through the cage and use a through bolt and the clamp just re-enforces the drilled portion?
 

Bitch'nBronco

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I just did the ruff stuff clamps
 

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Shimmy

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the roll cage clamps are nice because you can height adjust them as your kids get older. Ideally, you'd want less connection points so a bung welded to (thru) the bar is best, or a bolt thru the cage.
 

Bitch'nBronco

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Just thru the clamp, my boys are younger so I like that the clamp gives adjustability. I just installed them last week and plan to cut the bolt down a bit so it doesn't stick out so far
 
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davisjstone

davisjstone

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Just thru the clamp, my boys are younger so I like that the clamp gives adjustability. I just installed them last week and plan to cut the bolt down a bit so it doesn't stick out so far
Thanks. I’m in the same situation and want adjustability as my boys grow. Looks like this is a good option
 
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davisjstone

davisjstone

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No need to drill the tube with the clamp.

A tab is more than sufficient, lots of race cars out there with tabs welded to a tube for the seat belts.
Are you saying to weld a small tab/bung to the clamp like in the pictures below or just run the clamp as is?

I’m wondering if there are enough threads/depth with the clamp as is to work in an accident.
 

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Yeller

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Are you saying to weld a small tab/bung to the clamp like in the pictures below or just run the clamp as is?

I’m wondering if there are enough threads/depth with the clamp as is to work in an accident.
just the treads in the clamp, you only need as much thread engagement as the diameter of the bolt to obtain full tensile strength of the fastener. If adding a spacer like in the pic I would weld that to the clamp, which would increase the tensile of the assembly by putting the load on the shoulder of the bolt rather than the thread.
 

.94 OR

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I would think the use of an appropriately sized shoulder bolt would work well to use in the clamp.
Short enough shoulder to trap the seat belt and allow slight movement and enough threads to fully thread through the clamp.
Trim off the end of the bolt so it doesn't come in contact with the roll bar to muck up the paint since height adjustment is desired.
 

pcf_mark

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just the treads in the clamp, you only need as much thread engagement as the diameter of the bolt to obtain full tensile strength of the fastener. If adding a spacer like in the pic I would weld that to the clamp, which would increase the tensile of the assembly by putting the load on the shoulder of the bolt rather than the thread.
The equation is 1.5*diameter for full strength FYI.

I get flamed when I say it so I will say it again to enjoy the heat on a cold February day. Seatbelt anchor tabs should be double shear - an attachment on both sides or the threads are what is keep the load in place. Like this https://allstarperformance.com/seat-belt-tab-double-shear-all60031/. If you drill your roll cage you have reduced its strength at a key junction.
 
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davisjstone

davisjstone

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NJBronk

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I just found this post earlier this morning. Good stuff. Front will work perfect this way.

Unfortunately I don’t have the rear gussets and i missed the boat on having Gordon weld them in.
Ah, too bad. Made it super easy. Also connected the windshield to the roll cage using top front gussets:

IMG_8664_Original.jpeg


IMG_8663_Original.jpeg
 

Yeller

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The equation is 1.5*diameter for full strength FYI.

I get flamed when I say it so I will say it again to enjoy the heat on a cold February day. Seatbelt anchor tabs should be double shear - an attachment on both sides or the threads are what is keep the load in place. Like this https://allstarperformance.com/seat-belt-tab-double-shear-all60031/. If you drill your roll cage you have reduced its strength at a key junction.
All good. If the sleeve in the pic gets welded, it covers that and then some.

I always hear about double shear. Yet it is very rare in OEM components, steering components, seat belts and trailer balls really come to mind. I’ve never had a safety rule about double sheer seat belts as long as you met the thickness requirement of the tab in all the racing organizations I’ve been exposed to, not to say it isn’t somewhere tho. No OEM belt is double shear that I’ve ever seen. Not arguing just sharing experiences and observations. Double shear is without a doubt always stronger.
 
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