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500 or 600 Edelbrock? Help with stalling problems also

jcwalsh1

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2003
Messages
384
Loc.
Shawnee, KS
I am about to pull the trigger on a new 4 bbl & performer intake, but wanted some advice on size. I have rebuilt the 2bbl, rerouted fuel lines and am still having problems when the engine gets hot. I plan on installing a electric fuel pump, new coil to see if they solve the problem and the intake and 4bbl just for the hell of it.

302+.30, moderate cam, lightened flywheel, hooker headers, balanced, etc.

The PO told me he left the 2bbl on for clearance issues with the stock hood.

Is 600 still to much?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
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blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
A moderate 302 with hydraulic lifters can't flow more than 450 CFM. More carb than you can possibly flow is excess and actually reduces the velocity and performance. I put on an Edelbrock 500 CFM and it's plenty. I have a performer intake and no body lift. I have a very low profile air cleaner and the hood just barely clears. You gain an inch because you don't use the vacuum plate under the carb like the factory manifold and carb had.

Now for the Hooker headers, Are they fender, shorties, mid, or long? How do they fit and how hard were they to install?

Send pics of the Goat!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

BronCowie

Contributor
Old Timer
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
8,067
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
2X on last reply... 500 is more than enough, it's what I run with a dropped open element 14" air cleaner and mild cam upgrade. Runs great, barely clears the hood, you need the banjo fuel inlet fitting to clear the low profile air cleaner.
 

broncow72

Village Idiot
Joined
Jun 5, 2005
Messages
2,174
Loc.
Spring,TX.
X3 on 500 or less. I run the Edelbrock 500 with a by-pass regulator. Some bitch about the edelbrock but it is the one carb I got to work properly and most effectively at angles. Read their web page on tuning the carb using a vacuum guage and remote tach (for ease of adjustments).
 

fordtrucksrule

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
838
well i did have a 600 cfm edelbrock i couldnt for the life of mr get the darn thing to ever idle right tried adj floats do different levels with no success offroad needles and seats as well as plugging the ports on the back of the carb all with no success but i do and will tell yo they are one hellof a carberator to tune (easy) i just went with a quadrajet and Love the carb about 100% better than the edelbrock. The primaries are way smaller and if you stay outta the secondarys you will get good gas mileage. my edelbrock did ok but the quadrajet was better. but the secondaries will only open as far as they need to as far as engine demand. i dont know if it will fit under stock hood though as i got the buckroo hood
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
A 600 cfm is not to much but the 500 cfm s a better choice especailly with a lightened flywheel in a bronco(not a good idea in a heavy vehicle might also be related to your stalling). Clearance with a 4barrel is less but will still fit under the stock hood.
Need a little more info to help you on your stalling issues. Like when does it stall? does it restart easily? ect.
 
OP
OP
jcwalsh1

jcwalsh1

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2003
Messages
384
Loc.
Shawnee, KS
It only stalls when it is hot. Temp gauge never gets higher than 170-180. I rerouted the fuel lines in case of vapor lock, but it happened again this weekend. Once it dies I can get it running for a few seconds then it cuts out again. If you let it cool completely, she starts right up and runs great. Does not matter if I am on the highway or side road, after about 30 minutes of hot driving and I know it is only a matter of time.

Both the tanks have been dropped and boiled out. I put all new FI clamps on all the lines in case there was a air leak. I have run it without the fuel caps.

I hope that changing the coil, adding a holly electric fuel pump and putting on a new carb will end the problems once and for all. I am also going to wrap the headers to see if I can eliminate some of the heat in the engine compartment.
 

73AnneBoleyn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
1,045
Loc.
Charlotte, NC
you could try a carb spacer or thick rubber gasket between the carb and intake. this help keeps the fuel cool, and helps prevent it from boiling in the carb. i think that's what's happening. fuel is getting too hot and boiling.
try a carb spacer or gasket like one of these: http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...N=700+4294873482+115+400065&Ntk=KeywordSearch

or this: http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=EDL-9265&N=700+-121320+115&autoview=sku

call summit and they can set you up with what you ned for your application.

edit: oops, thought you already had the edelbrock 4bbl.
 
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blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
The gas we have today boils at a lower temperature. Fuel injected engines have no problem with it because the pump is usually in the tank where the fuel is cooler. I've struggled with vapor lock and heat soak problems. The carb spacer did nothing to help the heat soak. The fuel boils over into the intake and makes it hard to restart when hot. This is real bad for rings and dilutes your oil. What did help was to lower the fuel level a bit in the carb.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Sounds like it could be the ignition module they act that way when going bad. Might also want to check the pick up in the dist.
 
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