'69 failed Arizona emissions

[Mazeing]

After paying the Tucson MVD office $25 cash to get a new VIN for my '69 I took it to get the emissions tested. It failed the idle test with too many hydrocarbons but seemed to be okay during the at speed test ;D.

My question is that now that I've failed, the booklet that the ADEQ gave me states that I have to take it to someone authorized to work on it and fill out the back of the form before I can get it retested. I'm guessing that a new set of spark plugs and a good cleaning of the carb will get me where I need to be, but it looks like I have to have somebody else do the work and sign off on it. ?:?

My 30-day registration runs out this week and I really want to get it registered for the long haul.

Any other ideas on how to clean up the hydrocarbons on idle? It has a 302 with a mild RV cam, 4bbl Holley carb, headers with dual exhaust (the tail pipe rusted off the muffler on the passenger side, so that was recently welded back on) and it had a valve job a little over a year ago.

 

[Wyflyer]

have you adjusted the idle air mixture screws?

 

[RODRIG3911]

I live in Tucson and the same thing happens to me every other year. I always fix it myself and they don't care, just annotate what you did to it on your form bro. I also bump up my idle to around 1000rpm for the idle test. I have no idea why that works, but it does. A new cap and rotor, wires and plugs (cheap autolite 25 with best for mine) and a bumped up idle always works for me

 

[Mazeing]

have you adjusted the idle air mixture screws?

I'll give that a shot as well.

I live in Tucson and the same thing happens to me every other year. I always fix it myself and they don't care, just annotate what you did to it on your form bro. I also bump up my idle to around 1000rpm for the idle test. I have no idea why that works, but it does. A new cap and rotor, wires and plugs (cheap autolite 25 with best for mine) and a bumped up idle always works for me

Cool. I wasn't sure if they would accept that or not.

I thought about increasing the idle as well hoping by not having it "loping" would clean up the emissions, some how.

Thanks!

 

[00gyrhed]

New oil. 1000 RPM idle. New Spark Plugs, points, condesner if you are still running an old distributor. Clean Air Filter. Drive it arround and get it HOT. Cover the radiator if needed. Adjust the idle mixture screws as lean as you can and it still drive over there to the staition. Dont worry if it drives bad or even leans out at high speed. 1/2 tank or less of gas, put some catalytic converter cleaner in it. Yea I know you dont have one but it contains oxygenated hydrocarbons. Then imediately go to the station and hope they get you in while its still nice and hot.

I had several vehicles in my younger days, mostly four cylinders, that this routine became a yearly thing, and if I didnt do it all sometimes I would pass and others not. I had an old worn out 6cyl Jeep that I used to do all that to and also run straight 50W in it just to get it to pass.

Brand new oil and a new air filter will often get it done all by themselves. If you are running a K&N take it out and run a clean brand new paper for the test. and then replace it and save it for next year.

Fuel injector cleaner also contains oxygenated hydrocarbons.

 

[65 mustang]

mine I drove around in 2nd gear. screaming around town at 30 mph. got her all hot and she passed!!!

 

[savage]

I know in Washington state, you can't have the idle above 1000 rpm, or you fail.So in Arizona, they still let you guy's run the idle that high?

 

[jckkys]

Did you use the testing station on 22nd and Sarnoff or the one on I 10 and Prince? The one on Sarnoff has 3 or 4 "authorized emissions repair shops" within a block. They usually want $50-100 to create vacuum leaks and crank up the idle. They then tell you to come back after the test to return your truck to it's previous condition so it actually runs, but can't pass emissions. The whole thing is a sham. The best solution is to get antique vehicle insurance; no emissions test and cheaper tags good for 5 yrs.,plus lower cost insurance.
For now you might try filling out the form yourself. Then crank up the idle to 1200 RPM. This is easier with a manual trans. Then lean the idle mixture screws till the engine runs like crap. I did this for years for the first test. Then I parked under a tree and made it idle well.
If they don't buy the do it yourself paper work, you will have to pay one of the emissions repair vultures.

 

[broncogt]

You need a good tuneup. Check for vacuum leaks. Check transmission modulator if automatic. Check distributor diaphragm, or diaphragms if it has 2 hose fittings. If you have any ported vacuum switches check them for vacuum leaks. Vacuum switches on air cleaner? Check them too. Anything with a vacuum hose .....check it.

You may need a carb rebuild but passing low cruise is a good sign. Might only need idle mix tweek. Full tune up should do it.

I never reset mine after testing. It runs nice and has not failed for a few years. (mine is a 74)

Hydrocarbons fail at idle could be lean miss fire.

 

[broncnaz]

Along with most of the other things mentioned. Set the ignition timing to the stock setting or even slightly lower that will clean up the idle. You may need a adjust the idle mixture a little and bump up the idle speed as was said but it works. Once you've passed bump your timing back up so it runs like it should.

The antique route can work but some insurance companies try and limit your driving so if its a daily driver or one that you will drive often that route may not work. Sometimes they also have other stipulations on the coverage. Dont know if they actually ever check tho so its a option.
Glad I had my bronco registered out of the county when I lived in tucson didnt have to deal with emissions.

 

[AZ73]

Get a historic vehicle plate. No smog. Just have to get insurance to say it's a historical vehicle.

 

[694play]

I have a similar set up and used to battle emissions every year. I did find the carb out of adjustment early on and would also de-tune prior to going in but always was a PITA until I just increased the idle. Now I pass first time every time then set the idle back to normal, done deal. With the idle up it stays about the same RPM as when they are running the speed test so the carb doesn't load up going back to idle and cause a failure. I have increased to 1500 and they don't say anything.

 

[GRW]

I know in Washington state, you can't have the idle above 1000 rpm, or you fail.So in Arizona, they still let you guy's run the idle that high?

True but in WA state a 69 would not be being tested...
So does anyone have a list of states that require emissions vs ones that don't (after _ _ years, like WA)?
Do all states have areas that do not require testing, again like WA?

 

[STD]

Wisconsin does not require emission testing on automobiles older than 1996 or outside the greater milwaukee area.

 

[spray1963]

Florida, no emissions testing at all!;D

 

[Mazeing]

Did you use the testing station on 22nd and Sarnoff or the one on I 10 and Prince?

22nd and Sarnoff. I saw those shops but figured it was something I could do myself much cheaper so I didn't even bother with them.

Get a historic vehicle plate. No smog. Just have to get insurance to say it's a historical vehicle.

My speedometer/odometer haven't worked in years so I'm not sure if my insurance would give me the historical vehicle insurance since there would be no way to tell how many miles I was driving it. I guess it's worth a shot to ask.

For now, my 30 day temporary registration is coming due and I think it will be easiest to put some new plugs in, new air filter, crank up the idle to 1000 or so and lean it out then see what happens.

Thanks for all of the advice. I'll update with how it all goes.

 

[JefeAZ]

Tucson people all over this thread!

I have collector insurance on mine and my odo hasnt worked in years either. Im using a company that gave me a rate on a 3500 mile basis. They just dont want it to be my primary transportation. They havent asked for an odo pic yet


Maybe we should meet up and get our odo's to work? haha. Do you live/work near Speedway/Pantano? I think I saw your EB last Friday

 

[jckkys]

You can spend all kinds of money if it makes you feel good, but you have no reason to believe you need a tune up. The idle mixture is the real issue. To find the balance between a mixture that's too lean causing a fail on hydrocarbons, or too rich resulting in a failure from too much CO; you need a 3 gas exhaust analyzer. I've gone that route, with new plugs, filters, etc. and found a tune that passes while still being drivable won't last long. Any shop that's willing to use the exhaust analyzer to truly tune your idle is going to charge around $200. Most so called "emission repair shops" only play the game of placating the bureaucrats. These guys are so cynical they only disconnect a few vacuum lines and crank up the idle speed till the sniffer says it'll pass, knowing your coming back to have it fixed so you can drive it. That's $50-100 well spent, right?
If you choose the do it yourself route, be careful not to lean it too far since you already failed on hydrocarbons. Without an exhaust analyzer your shooting in the dark so don't be surprised if it still fails.
Finely you need to look at several antique insurance companies to find one you can work with. I had my agent Tracy White at 2612 N. Country Club Rd. 323-8454 get a policy with American Collectors Ins.Co.

 

[Mazeing]

Tucson people all over this thread!

Do you live/work near Speedway/Pantano? I think I saw your EB last Friday

I'm near 22nd and Harrison but I was out of town last Friday. Surprising that there is another EB out there as ugly as mine.

 

[savage]

yes your right GRW ,Washington I think if it 25 years old you don't have to test.But not all counties test.King county is the worsted.