'74 resurrection - where to start?

[Austen]

Gents!

I have a '74 ranger that I've had for about 12 years. 5 years ago or so my compression was dropping so terribly in 3 cyls that I picked up a 91 mustang 302 and dropped it in, I wrestled with a hodgepodge of EFI components from an f150 and mustang and decided carbs are what I know so I'm sticking to em. Long story short I got married, moved, had a kid and the bronc' has been in storage until now!

I'm ready to make her a daily driver again. But since I don't know what condition this motor is in (I never heard it run! couldn't slay the EFI) I'd like to know where you guys suggest I start checking/testing before firing her up? I know compression is a great place, but is there a decent way to check if cam is stock or if anything was modified in this engine? What else should I check?

I just got a new performer intake and carb, along with pertronix coil and dizzy. Will be slapping it on with some new shocks and new brake fluid. Thankful for this place and all the awesome questions and projects before me. I did not grow up wrenching so these places keep my inexperience in check! Thanks fellas

 

[JAFO]

Replace all the fluids of course. You want to prime the engine oil before turning it over if it has set a long time. Remove the dizzy and then spin the oil pump. I have that tool for inserting down into the hole and using an electric drill to spin it. Of course turn it the same direction the dizzy turns (counter clockwise, right?). Do it until your oil pressure comes up. Now the mains and all are nice and wet with oil.

I put a rebuilt 302 in my Bronco because I am keeping it stock, but I went with a Holley carb (love it) and a Mallory distributor (electronic spark). Was extremely easy to hook up and don't have to deal with points. Also a Mallory coil. Ballast resistor. Pretty much basic ignition.

Unknown engine, yes, check compression with all the plugs out. You are looking for the cylinders to be pretty close to one another regarding the compression value and close to spec compression.

Replace all the rubber brake lines. And eye ball the metal lines or replace them. Brakes to me is about the most important part of a vehicle. You gotta stop, no matter. Not starting won't kill you. Not stopping......
I had the rear line break on my old 1970 Chevy pickup (back in 1983 when I was younger and dumber). Was in the mountains and I gotta say going down the mountain with the hand brake is interesting. Glad the hand brake was in working order.
One day about maybe three years ago I backed up to my trailer with my 1996 Dodge Ram (bought it new in 96) to go haul my machine. Hit the brake, pedal went right to the floor. Ended up the metal line leading to the rear of the truck was rusted through, and blew. Glad it was in the yard. I replaced every brake line on that truck, metal and rubber.

 

[spap]

I would deff check for sludge in the oil pan. I changed the oil on a bronco project I had and the motor had been sitting for awhile and oil two quarts came out. Had to take a torch and lightly heat the oil pan and then all of the crap came out. Took a couple of times to get it all out with motor flush. The mustang motors are pretty tough.

 

[Austen]

Thanks guys - great thoughts. Now that I have ignition and fuel figured out I'll prob replace fuel line, rubber brake lines, and vacuum lines.

JAFO I couldn't agree more about brakes. Doesn't matter what it runs like if it doesn't stop! I want this as a DD by April so I better get on it

Spap great idea on the old oil. I'll definitely be getting her warm before draining all that.

Anyone have a quick solution to check cam? I have a feeling this motor was prob worked on and I'd like to not have to tear it all down to pull cam and compare to stock... but it will prob be apparent once she runs ha