76/77 Master Cylinder to 73 H-Block

[mpboxer]

Hey Guys,

Just purchased all new SS hard brake lines from JBG for my '73. I have a power booster and MC from a '76. I knew I would need an adapter for my secondary MC port which is 7/16 x 24. The JBG tube nut on my new line is 9/16 X 18.

So I need a 7/16 x 24 male inverted flare to 9/16 x 18 female inverted flare. I cannot find one of these adapters anywhere.

Thank you!

 

[surfer-b]

Check with James Duff, I got a kit from them once that had a lot of adapter fittings in it, not sure if they still have it or not

 

[Apogee]

My first choice would be to just cut the hard line, install the proper tube nut and re-flare the line. Done and no adapters required.

I don't know that a 7/16-24 male inverted flare X 9/16-18 female inverted flare adapter exists.

 

[mpboxer]

My first choice would be to just cut the hard line, install the proper tube nut and re-flare the line. Done and no adapters required.

I don't know that a 7/16-24 male inverted flare X 9/16-18 female inverted flare adapter exists.

That's what I was thinking too. Called JBG and they said I can't cut and re-flare their SS lines???

 

[Apogee]

That's what I was thinking too. Called JBG and they said I can't cut and re-flare their SS lines???

Hmm...did they say why? Stainless can be a PITA to work with, but a local hydraulic shop should be able to flare it for you if you don't have a flaring tool rated for stainless. They make 7/16-24 tube nuts for 3/16" and 1/4" hard lines, so it should just be a matter of getting the right nut and finding a decent flaring tool for stainless...unless JBG knows something about brake lines that I don't.

 

[mpboxer]

Hmm...did they say why? Stainless can be a PITA to work with, but a local hydraulic shop should be able to flare it for you if you don't have a flaring tool rated for stainless. They make 7/16-24 tube nuts for 3/16" and 1/4" hard lines, so it should just be a matter of getting the right nut and finding a decent flaring tool for stainless...unless JBG knows something about brake lines that I don't.

They didn't say, just that they cannot be cut and re-flared. Maybe that's it, they figure the average joe doesn't have the correctly rated flaring tool for stainless.

 

[tirewater]

Eh, did you get the Inline Tube set? One of my front lines to the caliper line had the wrong fitting on it. I used the fitting off my old lines and flared the stainless steel one to fit.

That said, I wouldn't recommend the stainless steel lines. They're a pain to tighten so they don't leak. If I were to do it again I'd get the regular steel lines from Classic Tube, or bend my own.

 

[mpboxer]

Eh, did you get the Inline Tube set? One of my front lines to the caliper line had the wrong fitting on it. I used the fitting off my old lines and flared the stainless steel one to fit.

That said, I wouldn't recommend the stainless steel lines. They're a pain to tighten so they don't leak. If I were to do it again I'd get the regular steel lines from Classic Tube, or bend my own.

Yes, they are the Inline Tube set That's good to know. Maybe I'll send them back and go only the steel route then. Anyone else have any issues with the SS?

 

[Apogee]

I've always had more issues getting SS lines to seal than steel Bundy tubing, or better yet the copper/nickel options (NiCopp, Cunifer, EZ Bend, etc). The issue I've had is that if the flare isn't perfectly centered on the axis of the tube, the tube nut doesn't exert equal pressure on the flare seating surface and you get a small leak. The best way to resolve this is to loosen and retighten the tube nut multiple times without over-tightening the nut, which is just a good way to strip the nut. Sometimes you just need to cut and reflare it again. Additionally, if you're running rubber hoses with brass fittings, those will be more forgiving than steel fittings that come with most aftermarket hose assemblies, but I still prefer braided stainless brake hoses for the improved pedal feel.

 

[mpboxer]

I've always had more issues getting SS lines to seal than steel Bundy tubing, or better yet the copper/nickel options (NiCopp, Cunifer, EZ Bend, etc). The issue I've had is that if the flare isn't perfectly centered on the axis of the tube, the tube nut doesn't exert equal pressure on the flare seating surface and you get a small leak. The best way to resolve this is to loosen and retighten the tube nut multiple times without over-tightening the nut, which is just a good way to strip the nut. Sometimes you just need to cut and reflare it again. Additionally, if you're running rubber hoses with brass fittings, those will be more forgiving than steel fittings that come with most aftermarket hose assemblies, but I still prefer braided stainless brake hoses for the improved pedal feel.

Thank you Apogee. I just called Inline Tube and they said I can cut and re-flare their SS. They said don't use a tube cutter because it will ruin the anneal process, use a cut off wheel. I think I may just bite the bullet and buy a decent flaring tool and put the right fitting on there.

 

[Apogee]

Thank you Apogee. I just called Inline Tube and they said I can cut and re-flare their SS. They said don't use a tube cutter because it will ruin the anneal process, use a cut off wheel. I think I may just bite the bullet and buy a decent flaring tool and put the right fitting on there.

Sure, no problem. When I have had to have to use stainless steel in the past, I also use a friction cutoff wheel and then square it up on the belt sander. If you have one with a steady-rest (or a pedestal disc sander), rolling the tube along the rest works well to square up the end, otherwise you can have issues with the flare not being centered and uniform.