A question for a Carb Guru

[nathan.hall1]

Ok I am young enough that almost everything I've owned is fuel injection, I have had college level auto classes but its all been FI, so here's my question my bronco hesitates real bad unless I'm runnin on full choke but then it's blowing black smoke out the tailpipe I made the mistake of idling next to the wife's new White Explorer it turned the side of that explorer black...

Where do I start? It's a 2100 series 2bl off of the 85s f150 that the 351 came from. Do I just junk it and buy a new one, I would like a 4bl but I can't afford a new intake and carb at the moment?

 

[bad 68]

Probably a bad accelerator pump diaphram. But that is just a guess. It needs the choke to richen the mixture wich means somthing is causing a lean condition and that could be several things.

If you don't have a bunch of extra cash right now you could get a rebuild kit if you or a buddy is capable of the rebuild.

I wouldn't buy a rebuilt carb period. I have never had luck with rebuilt unit from Napa or Schucks. I also wouldn't worry about a 4 barrel and intake on a stock engine. You won't see any HP gains. Jeggs and Summitt Racing sell brand new 2100 carbs in electric or manual choke for around $300.

 

[half cab]

Get a kit,comes with instructions...you will need a clean work place and a little air some parts cleaner of some sort(brake)and most of all take your time.

Metal tag on top will tell the p.n kit you will need...

btw not a carb guru...

 

[broncnaz]

X3 on a kit most of the kits cover pretty much all the stock 2v carbs from the 60's up to the 80's so actual part # of your carb is usually not that critical. Of course a carb off a 1985 engine will be a 2150 the 2100 carb was last used around 74 or so.
One thing to check is look down the throat of your carb and work the throttle do you see fuel squirt when you work the throttle? if so then I'd suspect a vacuum leak. If no squirt then your accelerator pump is not work as was said.

You may want to double check but Im pretty sure that no one offers a new 2100 or 2150 carb they are all remanufactured.

 

[gnsteam]

I'm not a carb guru either, but I am quit please with the results of my first ever carb rebuild. I copied down the numbers from the tag on the carb. Picked up a rebuild kit, a gallon can and a couple spray cans of carb cleaner from Auto Zone. I dis-assemble the carb on a Friday evening and let the parts soak over night. By mid afternoon on Saturday I had a bright clean and better performing carb on my 302. It made a huge difference in performance and a 3 mile per gallon improvement.

It's easy, take your time, you can do it. I also found this link for a step by step instruction guide for rebuilding the 2150 carb.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf

Good luck.

 

[Broncmeister]

I've seen the accel pump housings get warped over time too. It behaves like a bad diaphram but the warped housing is what was causing the leak.

 

[73azbronco]

You guys are not even close, I'm the oldest so you need to start by cleaning off the wifes car before she finds out...

 

[Gray035]

I agree with those who said to buy a rebuild kit. It's very easy to follow the included directions.

Don't bother with carb cleaner though. Go buy a gallon of pine sol from Home Depot and soak the parts in it overnight in a bucket. It's cheaper, works just as good, smells better, and isn't extremely toxic.

 

[nathan.hall1]

I'll go to the parts store and give it a whirl...I'll let ya know how it goes

 

[73azbronco]

Pine Sol, thats a great idea.

 

[half cab]

Pine Sol, thats a great idea.

Yule Gibbons on that%);D

jkdn

 

[broncnaz]

all good unless you want to spray out a passsageway then pine sol is not so good.

 

[wheelsblank27]

Take pictures during disassembly , you might need em!

 

[bad 68]

I hate the smell of pine sol. Unless you want to clean a pine tree I would go with carb sol.

 

[nathan.hall1]

So I went to a pick n pull looking for some parts. And I found this on an old Mercury with a motor craft 2150

[URL=http://s229.photobucket.com/albums/ee237/myintimidator/?action=view&current=7099de3dd80edf1f3b4ab0f9e32df70a.jpg] [/URL]

I wanted to upgrade to an electric choke and it looked so much better than what I had so I bought it for 17 bucks..

I cleaned it up a little and hooked it up and the bronco fired up and runs smooth. I was messing with the idle it was idling about 1800 RPM. And I need some help understanding the electric choke and adjusting this

Does anyone know a good reference for this, I am pretty mechanically inclined if I have good reference material

 

[broncnaz]

It may take a few minutes for the choke to warm up enough to allow a lower idle.

Pretty good info here. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf

 

[nathan.hall1]

Perfect that's exactly what I needed thank you

 

[bad 68]

It may take a few minutes for the choke to warm up enough to allow a lower idle.

]

Until you get a 12 volt wire going to the choke it won't come off. You need a source that is ignition switched. The power heats a thermo actuator inside of the black choke housing. It won't warm up enough from ambient air temp to shut off the choke without power. You can however loosen the 3 screws a bit and rotate it to achieve choke shut off when it's desirable for your specific engines' personal liking.

 

[707Bronk]

Here is another source for automatic chokes:

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/Adjusting_Automatic_Chokes.htm

 

[nathan.hall1]

Nice article a good read thanks