I’m working toward installing fuel injection on my ’69. Recently, my original sending unit in the fuel tank stopped sending so I thought this would be the perfect time to kill two with one and install a new sending unit and high-pressure in-tank fuel pump at the same time. I decided to go with the Aeromotive Phantom 200 universal in-tank pump. The original rear fuel tanks in the early Broncos have characteristics that fall within the required parameters to use the Phantom 200. The first two photos are the box.
I was very impressed with the quality of this unit, the clear instructions and the ease of installation. The first thing I did was pull the tank and clean it up. Surprisingly the inside of the tank looked almost new so no need to replace it. The third photo is of the cleaned tank with the hole drilled for the pump install.
I wanted to run my fuel lines up the passenger side since most carbs and FI setups have their inlets on that side. To install the Aeromotive pump, you have to drill a 3¼” hole in the tank. I discovered that centering the hole over the passenger-side dimple in the top of the tank gave me the perfect location. The pump comes with a very nice billet aluminum template to drill all the bolt holes. I also decided to coat the inside and outside of the tank with KBS products to prevent any future rust. The fourth photo is after the coatings were applied.
I won’t bore you with the install details since that’s all available online. I got a little carried away with the reassembly process and forgot to take a photo of the pump installed while the tank was still on the bench. Here it is all reinstalled in the truck. The final photo is a shot taken looking over the RR tire.
The pump is clockable to ten different locations. I clocked mine one position to the right to angle the fittings toward the frame rail. There are fittings for outlet, return and vent. It should be noted that I have a 2” body lift on my truck which seems about perfect for this install. I am very pleased with the ease of installation and the way it all turned out.
There are two notes of caution I would offer. First, if you decide you want to run your lines up the driver’s side, I wouldn’t center your installation hole over the driver’s side dimple on the top of the tank. The reason is that there is a foam baffle that gets inserted into the tank before the pump is put in place. That foam baffle might interfere with the movement of the sending unit float arm if located under the driver’s side dimple. The second caution involves installing the fuel pump pickup screen on the pump. There is a small plastic post that helps locate the screen assembly on the pump. The kit comes with a push-on retainer that is intended to go over that post to hold the screen in place. The problem is that the retainer’s diameter is too large to allow it to slide over the post without contacting the pump inlet. If you don’t realize this and try to force it like I did, the plastic post will snap right off. It didn’t damage the pump so I came up with a better method to retain the screen with stainless steel wire. I think you could probably find a smaller diameter retainer at any hardware store or trim the one that comes with the pump.
I was very impressed with the quality of this unit, the clear instructions and the ease of installation. The first thing I did was pull the tank and clean it up. Surprisingly the inside of the tank looked almost new so no need to replace it. The third photo is of the cleaned tank with the hole drilled for the pump install.
I wanted to run my fuel lines up the passenger side since most carbs and FI setups have their inlets on that side. To install the Aeromotive pump, you have to drill a 3¼” hole in the tank. I discovered that centering the hole over the passenger-side dimple in the top of the tank gave me the perfect location. The pump comes with a very nice billet aluminum template to drill all the bolt holes. I also decided to coat the inside and outside of the tank with KBS products to prevent any future rust. The fourth photo is after the coatings were applied.
I won’t bore you with the install details since that’s all available online. I got a little carried away with the reassembly process and forgot to take a photo of the pump installed while the tank was still on the bench. Here it is all reinstalled in the truck. The final photo is a shot taken looking over the RR tire.
The pump is clockable to ten different locations. I clocked mine one position to the right to angle the fittings toward the frame rail. There are fittings for outlet, return and vent. It should be noted that I have a 2” body lift on my truck which seems about perfect for this install. I am very pleased with the ease of installation and the way it all turned out.
There are two notes of caution I would offer. First, if you decide you want to run your lines up the driver’s side, I wouldn’t center your installation hole over the driver’s side dimple on the top of the tank. The reason is that there is a foam baffle that gets inserted into the tank before the pump is put in place. That foam baffle might interfere with the movement of the sending unit float arm if located under the driver’s side dimple. The second caution involves installing the fuel pump pickup screen on the pump. There is a small plastic post that helps locate the screen assembly on the pump. The kit comes with a push-on retainer that is intended to go over that post to hold the screen in place. The problem is that the retainer’s diameter is too large to allow it to slide over the post without contacting the pump inlet. If you don’t realize this and try to force it like I did, the plastic post will snap right off. It didn’t damage the pump so I came up with a better method to retain the screen with stainless steel wire. I think you could probably find a smaller diameter retainer at any hardware store or trim the one that comes with the pump.
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