anyone want to school me on EVAP system?

[amfw]

Im only running one tank, the 13 gallon. The two evap lines exiting it were rotted and leaking fuel when the tank is full, and they were dead ended in the cab behind the drivers seat anyhow. I would like to add evap system, but dont want to end up with the old style canister on the frame, sounds like that was a poor design to begin with and has problems. I also don't want to put it in the cab. I like the late model mounting in the engine bay on the firewall passenger side.

My question is, what are my requirements for an evap canister to purchase? I think this one will work...

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-1...refinements=p_36:-5500&rnid=386419011&sr=8-20


and how is it plumbed once I buy it and mount it? Do I run copper line all the way to the canister?

thanks gents!

 

[Glass Pony]

Im only running one tank, the 13 gallon. The two evap lines exiting it were rotted and leaking fuel when the tank is full, and they were dead ended in the cab behind the drivers seat anyhow. I would like to add evap system, but dont want to end up with the old style canister on the frame, sounds like that was a poor design to begin with and has problems. I also don't want to put it in the cab. I like the late model mounting in the engine bay on the firewall passenger side.

My question is, what are my requirements for an evap canister to purchase? I think this one will work...

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-1...refinements=p_36:-5500&rnid=386419011&sr=8-20


and how is it plumbed once I buy it and mount it? Do I run copper line all the way to the canister?

thanks gents!

That canister should work. I plumbed mine up like the image on the bottom left (Canadian vehicles using leaded fuel)
Don't forget the roll over check valve.
https://store.delorean.com/101402-rollover-valve.html

 

[armynavy17]

I set up an EVAP on my '72 with a vapor canister for a 79-93 Mustang with the 5.0, same as you posted from amazon. I have lines that dead end behind the drivers seat as well, but I also had two steel lines that look original running from the right to left side near the tank and then another running along the passenger frame rail up to the engine bay. I just connected between the two lines, the tank, and canister with fuel hose. Don't forget the cap for the two ports you don't use, one of which needs to be a breather cap to work properly, https://www.foxresto.com/1979-93-Mustang-5-0-Charcoal-Canister-Cap-p/4879006.htm. I went back and forth on running a roll-over valve and decided against it. Seemed to complicate the system with little benefit. Last thing to do is put a self taping in the firewall and hook up the canister to the air cleaner.

 

[amfw]

That canister should work. I plumbed mine up like the image on the bottom left (Canadian vehicles using leaded fuel)
Don't forget the roll over check valve.
https://store.delorean.com/101402-rollover-valve.html

Cool, thanks!

I ordered that canister and I get that the evap line exits the tank and breathes into the canister, and excess gas should get directed to the intake for getting burned up. But there is a second line from the side of my tank for condensed fuel return I believe. Where does that one get hooked up to? or does it get plugged if the canister is hooked up to the carb?

 

[armynavy17]

My understanding is the return line for condensed gas was only used in the old behind the driver style EVAP. Air being drawn through the canister will vaporize any liquid gas during initial startup. Unless you're expecting large temp changes while having a completely full gas tank, the chance of having liquid in the canister on the firewall is minimal in my opinion.

 

[amfw]

My understanding is the return line for condensed gas was only used in the old behind the driver style EVAP. Air being drawn through the canister will vaporize any liquid gas during initial startup. Unless you're expecting large temp changes while having a completely full gas tank, the chance of having liquid in the canister on the firewall is minimal in my opinion.

cool, that makes sense. So I can just plug the return line, as long as the canister is routed back to the filter/intake?

 

[Glass Pony]

Cool, thanks!

I ordered that canister and I get that the evap line exits the tank and breathes into the canister, and excess gas should get directed to the intake for getting burned up. But there is a second line from the side of my tank for condensed fuel return I believe. Where does that one get hooked up to? or does it get plugged if the canister is hooked up to the carb?

Here's a few pictures of what I did, right or wrong i have had zero gas smell in my garage and have been running this set up this way for over 8 years.
You don't want to hook that excess gas vapor line to the intake, too much vacuum, the air cleaner housing is fine. You can see in the second pic where it ties into the base of my aftermarket air cleaner base via the 3/4" silver emissions duct hose (Gates 28092).
In the third pic you see where I plugged the second line on my NVWP 23 gal. tank. Also in that pic, to the left, is where I put the rollover check valve.
My rig is far from stock but it works.
Hope this helps.

 

[amfw]

Here's a few pictures of what I did, right or wrong i have had zero gas smell in my garage and have been running this set up this way for over 8 years.
You don't want to hook that excess gas vapor line to the intake, too much vacuum, the air cleaner housing is fine. You can see in the second pic where it ties into the base of my aftermarket air cleaner base via the 3/4" silver emissions duct hose (Gates 28092).
In the third pic you see where I plugged the second line on my NVWP 23 gal. tank. Also in that pic, to the left, is where I put the rollover check valve.
My rig is far from stock but it works.
Hope this helps.

Oh man, thats PERFECT, thank you! The pics show just what I need. Im not concerned with being stock, just functional and tidy. Did you run that rubber line all the way to the front?

 

[amfw]

also, Glass Pony, your rig is nice and clean looking, well done

 

[Glass Pony]

Oh man, thats PERFECT, thank you! The pics show just what I need. Im not concerned with being stock, just functional and tidy. Did you run that rubber line all the way to the front?

I did, but hindsight I think I would have bent up some 1/4" Ni-Cop tubing most of the way, then using a small piece of rubber at each end.

 

[Glass Pony]

also, Glass Pony, your rig is nice and clean looking, well done

Thanks!
One more thing, this is just my opinion, when you are bypassing the vapor tank behind the driver's seat I feel the rollover check valve is important because we are trying to emulate a 1976-77 system which had that exact check valve mounted on the frame. It would be horrible to end up on your lid and have the chance of gas leaking in front of the passenger. Food for thought.

 

[amfw]

Thanks!
One more thing, this is just my opinion, when you are bypassing the vapor tank behind the driver's seat I feel the rollover check valve is important because we are trying to emulate a 1976-77 system which had that exact check valve mounted on the frame. It would be horrible to end up on your lid and have the chance of gas leaking in front of the passenger. Food for thought.

Thanks for that as well. I'm really not hoping to roll, but we don't always get what we want. Rollover check valve is also ordered, and will be installed with the other equipment.