Bending the radius arm

[ET]

Hello all,
Is it possible to bend the radius arm to help correct caster on tall lifts? Has anyone tried either by themselves or has a shop do it? I'm looking it getting 5.5 lift and it seems that 7 degree C bushing is not enough to correct caster. I'm waiting on Chuck to call me back but I thought I'd ask here while I'm waiting.

Thanks,
Eugene

 

[rflud]

I've heard of this being done but I think getting both arms to bend the same will be difficult. You have other options available to you:

1 - I remeber Chuck telling me that somebody (maybe him) was coming out with 10 degree bushings.

2 - You can get drop brackets for the radius arms. I don't like this because it adds something that can hangup on rocks.

3 - You can cut the wedges off the axle and reposition them on the axle to get the correct caster. That's a lot of work for someone.

4 - Get new radius arms that have the ability to adjust the caster. I believe the Duff arms - http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/suspension.html - have adjustable caster.

I had a similar problem with caster so I had a guy on this forum build me a set. Jack aka IronBenderII made some very nice adjustable, wristed radius arms. They work great and now I can actually drive in a straight line with little effort.

 

[Shubyjames]

The only options you really have with a “stock” radius arm are the C-bushings or a drop radius bracket or both. Don’t even attempt to bend a radius arm; first of all you probably will not be able to, and if you did manage, it will most likely crack. If you really have a burden for the caster, check out your after market radius arm options.

 

[behemoth]

One other issue with the radius arms is the front pinion angle. If you were to actually bend the arms, the pinion angle would be out. If you were then to be at full droop in the front the front could actually bind.

I went with extended arms to get castor correction, they had 2 degrees of it built in. I also noticed that they are mounted lower than the stock ones. I am also running the 7* bushings. My steering is so much better, they are the best thing I have done so far.

 

[ET]

Thanks for the input guys. I didn't think it would be a good idea to bend the arm but thought I'd ask. I guess I need to save up for after market arms.

Eugene

 

[Rustytruck]

In the old days when Broncos were built they bent the arms to correct the caster. The only shops that could do this type of work were shops that did alignments for big rigs. you had to have large base support and tie the beam with chains to the base close to the axle then put in large hydralic jacks under the C-Bushing mounts and on top of the base and jack. you need the bend right at the point where the beam leg meets the large C for the bushings. This was butchery at its best but it works since for the most part they were talking only about a few degrees. Of course there were no 5-1/2 inch lifts back then. now days we know much better and can for the most part use corrected C-bushings. But for the Big Boys with lifts over 3-1/2 inches the best way is to grind off the knuckle mounts put in 0- degree bushings and weld the mounts back in with 6 degrees of castor at lift height and be done with it. This will straighten out the problem and really help the front driveshaft U-joint live a much happier life. While you have the welder out slap in a WAH and you dont have to worry about articulation or custom arms or lowered rear mounts. All in all it isnt much more work or expence and it is done right once and for all.

 

[MikeM]

Eugene, I think you'll find people who will disagree. An old school alignment shop will bend your arms to correct the castor. They will not "crack". I have taco'ed my non wristed arm, bent it back and am still running it. There are plenty of others with bent arms from the trail.

 

[ET]

This is where I wish I have a welder and the skills so I can do all the modifications myself. In time. Thanks Rustytruck.

Eugene

 

[ET]

Thanks MikeM. I need as many opinion's as possible to decide on what I need to do.

 

[EricLar80]

I have taco'ed my non wristed arm, bent it back and am still running it. There are plenty of others with bent arms from the trail.

Thats not something you can do and expect it to be as strong as original. It was starin hardened when bent, and that will make it more brittle, just like when you bend a piece of wire.

I'd say go with the extended arms, they are the cheapest, easiest, and safest route. If you buy an extra set of raduis arms, you could even have a welding shop make you a set of extended arms, and then also fab up some new mounts (at the frame) similar to stock.
-Eric

 

[bbolander]

An alignment shop bent my drivers side radius arm to get the caster to agree on both sides many years ago and I've been wheeling ever since with no problems.

 

[lars]

In two weeks I'm going to do the cut-the-inner-knuckles-off-&-reweld-them mod. I have a 4.5" spring lift and 7 degree C bushings. Even with the bushings I still only had 1.5 degrees of caster (minimum spec is 2.75 degrees). I bought & installed a set of Scout Ranch Caster Correctors, which gave me another 1.5 degrees. Thus I'm in spec, but barely. Unfortunately the 7 degree C bushings mean that the front pinion angle is 7 degrees off. So I'm going back to stock bushings when I do the mod. I don't expect it to be trivial, but I'm fortunate to have the help of a good friend who is an expert welder/fabricator and 4 wheeler. I'll be taking lots of pics and plan to write up my experience. After consulting with lots of people with custom suspension experience I've settled on a target caster angle of 6 degrees. Once everything's back together and I've got some miles on it I'll report back. It won't be a simple mod, but hopefully I'll be able to share enough that interested parties can duplicate the effort (assuming the results are good).