Best way to cool C4 tranny?

[JRS77]

I have a 77 and a 76 buggy that both have a C4. Never have a problem when on the road just when wheeling. What is the best way to cool a tranny when wheeling. I would like cold hard facts. I have researched BC's cooler with a fan, B&M with a fan and a thermometer, and have the cooler in front of radiator now. Couple of questions. Is it better to remove the lines from the radiator and go straight to the cooler or not. Also won't it be better for the cooling of the engine.

 

[broncow72]

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...839034+4294854215+4294906584+115&autoview=sku

In conjunction with a switch, this should be plenty. Turn it on when on when needed.

I once was told that using the radiator will help keep the fluid up to temp in the winter months. But if you remove the one in front of the radiator it will cool the coolant better, and the remote fan/cooler will cool tranny fluid better in slow moving situations.

edit...
I'd like to hear more on this also. As I listed above is how I intend on running my trans lines.

 

[JRS77]

That is what I am considering just wanted to hear from someone who actually has done it and how it worked. Are you a member of LEBC? If not you need to be.

 

[TJK74]

Not sure if you already are but running a synthetic transmission fluid is usually good for usually 15 up to a 50 degree drop in operating temp. this of coarse is no replacement for a cooler set up but it does help.

 

[wildbill]

%) %) %) Had that problem with a 427 built C6 and 3000 stall. The fix a radiator 2"X 18"X24" and a big cooling fan worked well. Also offroad book had a thing on that back in the late 60's they built a box about 18" square and used a small fan a hole was cut in the L front wheel well on top worked good also good luck.%) %) %) Bill %) ;D

 

[cbearly]

I initially had problems with engine and tranny getting hot when running on the trails. I ended up running the hot output line from the tranny to a cooler with fan mounted on the driver's side front wheel well. I built an "air dam" around it so it has to suck cold air from outside the engine compartment, and I have the fan hooked to a thermal switch so it doesn't come on until the tranny fluid gets up to temp. I then have the output from this cooler go to an automatic temperature valve (from BC Broncos). If the fluid is cooled enough it goes back to the tranny, but if it is still hot it goes through another cooler mounted in front of the radiator and then back to the tranny.

I have two temp gauges - one on the hot line out and one on the return line. Most of the time on the trails the hot side will run about 190 - 200 and the return line will run about 170 - 180. The hottest I've had it get when I'm working it pretty hard is 210 on the hot side and about 190 on the return.
My engine runs a lot cooler now too, although I do still have a problem with it loosing too much antifreeze through the radiator overflow.

My tranny cooling setup might be a little over kill, but it has worked great and pretty much takes care of running itself. I don't have to remember to turn switches on or off, just check the gauges every now and then to make sure it is running where it should be.

 

[HotWheels]

I'm running a B&M tranny cooler in my return line. This way their is not transferrence of heat from radiator to tranny fluid. This allows everythign to warm up nicely and the auto-fan assists in maintaining a healthy tranny temp.

 

[HotWheels]

Here's another pic after the install was complete:

 

[ransil]

I have 4 coolers on my setup right now, still does not work right. I probably have it restricted at this point.
I tried the radiator & small moroso billet cooler, ran hot.
Added a B&M with fan under the drivers seat, still ran hot.
Added a cooler in front of the radiator, good for the trials, runs around 190 but on the highway after running 70 for about 45 minutes I can get it up to 220.

As soon as bronco season is over I will start removing & re plumbing the setup and build some dams on the core support.

I put together some pressure & temperature sensors and wired them to a laptop data logger so I can measure pressure & temperature under the hood and in front of the radiator, This should tell me where if I'm getting good flow thru the radiator and how much heat and pressure is building up under the hood.

 

[icebreaker88]

I run one of the largest coolers from B&M(26k or 27k I think). I tried the cooler on the fender well with a high flowwing 10" fan and it was horibly, too much under hood temp. I also did not really vent it good as in holes in the fender well or something similiar. I ended up just putting it infront of the radiator. I am not running through my normal Rad. For my normal cooling fan it is a Taraus setup that pushes alot of air. I can beat it pretty hard and the highest I have seen it was lamost 200* and that was beating it pretty hard trying to get through a mud hole for almost 10min or so. The longest road drive with it like this was only around 45min and never went above 160*

 

[OX1]

I originaly had this setup. ran 190, hit high of 230 (rock crawling)

http://ox.users.superford.org/GREEN_DILYSI/TRANS COOLER/DCP01619.JPG

Tried this setup, maybe 10 degrees lower (very dissappointing)

http://ox.users.superford.org/GREEN_DILYSI/TRANS COOLER/dcp01623.JPG

Finally went with this, heard about it from the guys on the diesel boards.
Runs 150, hit 175 once. Have not run the fan on it since, thinking about removing it. @ 110$, I think it's a true bargain ;D

http://ox.users.superford.org/GREEN_DILYSI/TRANS COOLER/STACKED PLATE INSTALL/DCP01685.JPG

I have temp sender in pan and line out of converter (To cooler). Pan actually runs 10 degrees hotter on most days. Mine is trailer queen, so I bypass the radiator cooler.