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Body guru's. Welding 1/4 panel seam ?

screamin reel

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2005
Messages
664
Loc.
Calgary, Alberta, Ca
I've cut out a 1.5" strip of rot where the lower 1/4 meets the upper. This is the total length from the tail light housing to the rear door pillar.
I would like to just weld in another strip instead of replacing the whole panel.

Question is

Do I just spot weld this strip in every 1" or so then seam seal it or can the strip be welded solid to the upper then rounded out with filler ?

Is there a lot of body flex where these two panels meet ?

How should I proceed ?
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,493
If your a good welder, weld it up. easy on the heat.
 

mag409

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2002
Messages
371
Loc.
Central Pennsylvania
Find a round piece of steel pipe that fits the radius of the door. This will need to be as long as the patch you are replacing. Cut your filler strip about 2" wide and a little long. Tack one edge of the patch to the pipe and form the patch over the pipe. Remove the patch and trim to size. You should tack weld the piece in and keep jumping around to reduce the heat. Keep doing this until the patch is welded soild and grind the weld seam down. Smooth with filler and move on.

I did this to mine and here is the result.
 

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NicksTrix

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 1, 2001
Messages
6,389
interesting mag. any shots of what is looks like before filler wipe?
 

ArmyCOL

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2007
Messages
404
I've cut out a 1.5" strip of rot where the lower 1/4 meets the upper. This is the total length from the tail light housing to the rear door pillar.
I would like to just weld in another strip instead of replacing the whole panel.

Question is

Do I just spot weld this strip in every 1" or so then seam seal it or can the strip be welded solid to the upper then rounded out with filler ?

Is there a lot of body flex where these two panels meet ?

How should I proceed ?


I plan on doing what you just described. I have replaced about 3/4 of that seam on the upper panel. However, I did not cut out the the seam from the upper half, cleaned it up and primed it with weld through primer and painted the underside with POR15.

Chuck
 

mag409

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2002
Messages
371
Loc.
Central Pennsylvania
interesting mag. any shots of what is looks like before filler wipe?

Just checked my pictures and I couldn't find any that showed the progress.

As already mentioned use a weld thru primer on any pieces that will not be coated in the final paint stages. I have tried most of the brand name weld thru primers and just started using SEM's new copperweld. It's been the best so far with very good conductivity. Hardly changes the weld characteristics.
 

gjrock

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 12, 2007
Messages
1,422
Loc.
Anacortes,WA
I thought seam sealer went in that?I also thought is was not welded from the factory due to body flex?The welded in idea looks sweet.
 

smoktf250

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Messages
358
Find a round piece of steel pipe that fits the radius of the door. This will need to be as long as the patch you are replacing. Cut your filler strip about 2" wide and a little long. Tack one edge of the patch to the pipe and form the patch over the pipe. Remove the patch and trim to size. You should tack weld the piece in and keep jumping around to reduce the heat. Keep doing this until the patch is welded soild and grind the weld seam down. Smooth with filler and move on.

I did this to mine and here is the result.


Did you cut out that section and weld in the new section? Or did you weld your new rounded piece on top of the old seam? What thickness metal were you using for your filler patch? Do you remember what size round pipe you used?
Thanks!
 

ncsubronc

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2004
Messages
878
PO of my bronco did something like that to match the radius of the door...although it wasn't executed nearly as good as mag's. Even though mine is a hackjob I still like the way the smooth seam looks. When I get around to doing the body I will keep it like that for sure.
 

mag409

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2002
Messages
371
Loc.
Central Pennsylvania
Did you cut out that section and weld in the new section? Or did you weld your new rounded piece on top of the old seam? What thickness metal were you using for your filler patch? Do you remember what size round pipe you used?
Thanks!

I used either POR15 or rust bullet on the existing seam to stop the rust from continuing. I then layed the patch over top and welded to the existing quarter and the lower edge on the upper panel. Don't recall the diameter pipe I used, maybe 2", been awhile. For this patch I used 18 gage.
 

smoktf250

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Messages
358
So am i correct by saying you did not remove any material from the lower quarter or upper bed rail?
 

Explorer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
4,390
Loc.
Raphine, Virginia
I did about the same. Cut about a 3" stip of 19 gauge, bead rolled the center( pipe does same thing) flanged bottom quarter and used panel adhesive and countersunk rivets. Top part removed, I believe there were about 4 spot welds, cut out the rust in top quarter and placed a cover strip on inside where they overlap and spot welded together after killing rust and weldthru primer. Seam sealed the crack and repaired remaining pin holes with Marglass, short fiber fiberglass filler. It doesn't crack near as bad as regular filler. If a new lower quarter was available for the 77, I would have just replaced the whole lower quarter, lot easier.
 

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Big Del

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2007
Messages
90
Loc.
JC Oregon
Those are nice mods any more pics I was just complaing about that body line. Do you have to ad much filler to feather in the edge of the 18 ga?
 

Explorer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
4,390
Loc.
Raphine, Virginia
Wrong Way

You got two choices, cut that crap out and butt weld the seam (best) or cut it out and flange so patch fits flush and glue or weld it. Very little filler needed. Either way you need to cut that rust out or you're wasting your time.
Picture is the passenger side, some fine PO repair.
 

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