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Body mount and floor pan advice

BRONCITIS74

Full Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
340
Hello all. I'm new to the forum, but not to Broncos. I got my first one after the fever hit me when I saw 3 fixed up trucks pull into Silverton, Colorado. That was in 1986. I sold my rust free '71 a few years back and have kicked myself ever since. I located a '74 that looks very good on the outside, but has some rust issues underneath. I plan on putting in new floors and body mounts. As I look at the holes in the floor pans, I'm wondering which you guys would do first? I can see the body mounts through the floor pans. I plan on doing a 1" body lift when I do the body mounts. Advice on which to do first would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

JAFO

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 3, 2007
Messages
1,556
Loc.
Beaverdam
I would not move the body from the mounts until I had replaced the pans. You want as little shift in the body IMO. Alignment is critical regarding the body parts. Brace the heck out of it before you remove metal. Weld in supports so that the body remains rigged.
 
OP
OP
BRONCITIS74

BRONCITIS74

Full Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
340
Could I get some tips on bracing the body? The full cab is still on the truck. I was hoping that would be enough. Maybe not though? There is hardly anything left of the passenger side floor pan. Is that going to cause the body to shift? I've helped do floors and rockers and kick panels on my '75 Bronco, but this one I am attempting on my own.
 

JAFO

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 3, 2007
Messages
1,556
Loc.
Beaverdam
It depends on how much you are going to remove I guess as to exactly how much bracing is needed. Under the floor pan area are cross braces. The body mounts are sitting on the cross braces. If you are not removing those braces and just replacing the tin floor, you might be OK to just cut. But I guess I am just nervous about body shift and keeping the door alignment in place. Years ago I began the restoration on my 73 Bronco and being a novice I did not brace as well as I could and paid the price by having to do a ton of work getting the door posts all aligned correctly. But I did ok in the bracing department and the truck is pretty true. But, instead of bracing I had actually hung the body of the truck from an I-beam by attaching beam hangers and then threaded rod down to some brackets I fabbed onto the hood hinge locations. Allowed me to remove/replace the front door posts without the body shifting.

I have seen people weld square metal tubing across the door openings and then whatever you think needed to hold the body ridged if you are going to remove so much metal in the floor that it might sag from the weight. You could even support with some jack stands from below or something. Thing to keep in mind is just whatever you think is needed to keep the body in place as you remove metal.

Again, it is a judgement call. Better safe than sorry, but if just doing the tin in the floor it might be OK to just cut it out without much bracing. If you are going to be removing the cross pieces that the body mounts are up against, then think about supporting the body in some way.

Another thing....take lots and lots of measurements. Like door openings. Across the truck from say kick panel to kick panel. Measure across the back. It all maters later when you are trying to obtain good gaps in doors and tailgate, etc. Pictures and measurements are gold later on. I had tons of measurements, which allowed me to get the truck back together after removing tons of metal.

I replaced ALL of the floor...

This... (this picture kind of shows how NOT to do it. I should have welded bracing across the bed. I had good measurements and had left the top on as I did all the floor, but bracing would have also been a good thing to do. This was some years ago when I considered myself a novice. Now I am somewhere above a novice, but no expert).
RearFloor2.jpg


Became this..
Prep3.jpg
 
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half cab

Contributor
Guru Bronco
Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Messages
16,289
Hard top still on and all your replacing is the floor pans or even the seat platform,you should be ok.

And yes like said above,I to would replace metal before adding body mounts.

And welcome to the site.

BTW nice work JAFO
 
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OP
BRONCITIS74

BRONCITIS74

Full Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
340
Wow! Thanks for all the info, guys. I plan on doing the front floor pans first, because the seat platform and trans tunnel are still good. Then it will be on to the rear floor, and then the inner fenders in the front. I imagine I will have to brace the back end when I do rear floor. If I could figure out how to do pics on this website, I would post them so you can see my rotten floors. Once again, thanks
 

half cab

Contributor
Guru Bronco
Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Messages
16,289
Two ways to post pix..one is become a contributor n two use a photo hosting site and transplant link to the tile I circled in pic for example .

2015_11_09_14_50_05.jpg
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screencast[/IMG]
 
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