Can a Detroit locker cause steering issues?

[sixtyniner]

Can a detroit locker in the rear cause steering to be twitchy? I would expect it while taking a curve but will it cause it on a straight away? It's really noticeable during acceleration and deceleration. I'm attempting to make my ride more highway friendly and tired of white knuckles. I'm wondering if it's because of the locker.

 

[SteveL]

I would say yes. Even when driving straight if your accelerating it's basically a spool. When you go to turn at all it wants to push the front tires. I currently have a spool in my 72 and prefer that to a Detroit for consistency. I'm dropping an arbitrary back there now that bronco is gonna see more time on the street. A Detroit or the spool is even more fun in the rain or a wet road.

 

[RT]

Yes it can for sure. I ran a detriot for years in other cars and swore that's all I'd use, till I sprung for arb. Way nicer on the street.
But I sometimes do miss the excitement of the four wheel steer in the rain.
Guess I can just hit the switch to get it back though

 

[Yeller]

could be, every time you decell or accell it can twitch one direction or the other. Take a string and verify the circumference of the rear tires, I bet one of them is slightly smaller than the other and that will enhance that feeling. Measure all them and get the 2 closest ones on the rear and verify that the air pressure is the same, that will help. Also check the spring bushings and make sure they are tight and that its aligned well. Lots of little things add up to magnify the issue. but at the end of the day some clunky/twitchiness can be attributed directly to the locker. Any issues with steering linkage, track bar or radius arms will cause the same issues, and magnify the locker.

 

[sixtyniner]

I would say yes. Even when driving straight if your accelerating it's basically a spool. When you go to turn at all it wants to push the front tires. I currently have a spool in my 72 and prefer that to a Detroit for consistency. I'm dropping an arbitrary back there now that bronco is gonna see more time on the street. A Detroit or the spool is even more fun in the rain or a wet road.

Thank you. I was hoping on "no". I really like my detroits off road, but I guess they have their down side.

 

[Rustytruck]

Detroits can get a little squirreley if the tire pressure/size isn't even on the same axle. On pavement I can tell when a tire is a little low. Or if you accelerate on a tight turn. This is to be expected.

But if you are twitchy while general driving I would look someplace else.

1st suspect is toe in, you want 3/16"-1/4" at mid point of the tire outside diameter. measure the difference between the front of the tire and the backside of the tire.

http://www.bcbroncos.com/alignment.pdf

Next suspect is the trac bar bushings especially at the frame mount. Get under the truck and have some one move the wheel right and left without the engine running and parking brake set and or tires chocked. as they bounce the wheel back and forth until they feel firm resistance from the tires. As they do that look at every steering system connection point. start at the coupler for the steering column, down to the steering box, the steering box to the frame, down the steering arm to the drag link down to the tie rod ends. check the trac bar to the frame and where it mounts to the front axle. Anything that doesn't move solidly with the motion of the steering is suspect. Any delay in motion or wiggling about will be self evident.

if your steering box is loose to the frame check the frame for cracks. If you still have the old rubber suspension bushings for the axle mounts time for some new ones. I prefer to use replacement urethane bushings and would use 6 or 7 degree set if you have any kind of lift. Stock to 2" lift can usually get away with a 4 degree bushing set.

 

[sixtyniner]

could be, every time you decell or accell it can twitch one direction or the other. Take a string and verify the circumference of the rear tires, I bet one of them is slightly smaller than the other and that will enhance that feeling. Measure all them and get the 2 closest ones on the rear and verify that the air pressure is the same, that will help. Also check the spring bushings and make sure they are tight and that its aligned well. Lots of little things add up to magnify the issue. but at the end of the day some clunky/twitchiness can be attributed directly to the locker. Any issues with steering linkage, track bar or radius arms will cause the same issues, and magnify the locker.

Brand new tires. New power steering, new tie rod, drag link, track bar, shocks, body mounts, bushings. Everything seems in great order. I think I addressed every possibility. I'm left with thinking it's the rear locker.

 

[bronconut73]

Well....
I have ran Detroit's for years.
My locker is twitchy where it should be twitchy and not twitchy in straight highway driving.
I am so used to Detroit's now I don't even notice them.
You get accustomed to it and then don't even think about it anymore. I guess it is like a musicians muscle memory.
I just automatically do the right thing,....careful in the rain, don't accelerate through corners/curves, etc....

Like some others have said....look elsewhere because your Detroit "shouldn't" be "that" bad.....

 

[sixtyniner]

Detroits can get a little squirreley if the tire pressure/size isn't even on the same axle. On pavement I can tell when a tire is a little low. Or if you accelerate on a tight turn. This is to be expected.

But if you are twitchy while general driving I would look someplace else.

1st suspect is toe in, you want 3/16"-1/4" at mid point of the tire outside diameter. measure the difference between the front of the tire and the backside of the tire.

http://www.bcbroncos.com/alignment.pdf

Next suspect is the trac bar bushings especially at the frame mount. Get under the truck and have some one move the wheel right and left without the engine running and parking brake set and or tires chocked. as they bounce the wheel back and forth until they feel firm resistance from the tires. As they do that look at every steering system connection point. start at the coupler for the steering column, down to the steering box, the steering box to the frame, down the steering arm to the drag link down to the tie rod ends. check the trac bar to the frame and where it mounts to the front axle. Anything that doesn't move solidly with the motion of the steering is suspect. Any delay in motion or wiggling about will be self evident.

if your steering box is loose to the frame check the frame for cracks. If you still have the old rubber suspension bushings for the axle mounts time for some new ones. I prefer to use replacement urethane bushings and would use 6 or 7 degree set if you have any kind of lift. Stock to 2" lift can usually get away with a 4 degree bushing set.

Had a steering problem because the trac bar had some movement within the frame mount. Took me a long time to figure that out. Everything is tight now with no movement. When I replaced my tie rod I eyeballed it, I didnt move the wheels so I just.....I'm realizing how stupid that sounds..... I will check my toe in. Thanks ;D

 

[sixtyniner]

Well....
I have ran Detroit's for years.
My locker is twitchy where it should be twitchy and not twitchy in straight highway driving.
I am so used to Detroit's now I don't even notice them.
You get accustomed to it and then don't even think about it anymore. I guess it is like a musicians muscle memory.
I just automatically do the right thing,....careful in the rain, don't accelerate through corners/curves, etc....

Like some others have said....look elsewhere because your Detroit "shouldn't" be "that" bad.....

I like your answer. I have had my detroits for many years and no problems. I noticed it after I just replaced everything, I figured it was now just noticeable that everything is tight ... and I'm thinking it might have something to do with me adjusting my toe-in by sight and not checking it afterwards. Not very smart. I will start with the obvious. Thank you.

 

[SteveL]

Thanks spellcheck. I meant arb not arbitrary.

 

[surfer-b]

check the u-bolts on the rear axle leaf springs, and the bushings in spring eyes and hangers, just make sure the rear axle has no movement that shouldn't be there

 

[sixtyniner]

Thanks spellcheck. I meant arb not arbitrary.

I figured an "arbitrary" was a some new kind of locker. Ha ha

 

[Bundy]

Sounds like the Detroit to me- mine can get crazy going into a quick deceleration or accelerating through a corner. Anyone who drives my rig gets that pointer first!

 

[naneumranch]

Ya thought I was getting bump steer on acceleration and deceleration then it broke new Yukon and perfect steering

 

[bronconut73]

Sounds like the Detroit to me- mine can get crazy going into a quick deceleration or accelerating through a corner. Anyone who drives my rig gets that pointer first!

Went to the Doctor and told him my arm hurts when I do this, he said quit doing that.

Detroit is the same way.

It slides when I accelerate through corners.
Dr. says, "Don't accelerate through corners".

 

[sixtyniner]

Went to the Doctor and told him my arm hurts when I do this, he said quit doing that.

Detroit is the same way.

It slides when I accelerate through corners.
Dr. says, "Don't accelerate through corners".

Now that was F'n funny!

I expect that on curves or corners. My issue is occurring while on a straight away. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's my toe-in adjustment. My ride is in the shop getting sprayed with Line-X bed liner. I can't wait to get it back so I can see if that's my problem.

 

[Yeller]

I would still check the tires, new matched size tires often aren't as matched as one might think unless they all came out of the same mold. As said and you've commented, all alignment specs can be critical. I've seen axles out of square that just never felt right, once fixed was unbelievably different and better.

 

[sixtyniner]

Just when I am confident its most likely due to my toe-in adjustment you drop this on me. How long did you have the bump steer before it broke? After you replaced it I'm assuming it fixed the bump steer?

 

[sixtyniner]

I would still check the tires, new matched size tires often aren't as matched as one might think unless they all came out of the same mold. As said and you've commented, all alignment specs can be critical. I've seen axles out of square that just never felt right, once fixed was unbelievably different and better.

I have been using super swampers for the last 10 yrs. they were never ballanced, missing big chunks, each four at different stages of wear. Tire pressures ranged from less than 10 to 35 psi. and I didn't have an issue like I do now with brand new Goodyear MT's. So it's hard for me to imagine that a slight differentiation in my tires would cause what I'm experiencing. However I will be checking my tires as well.