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Chassis paint questions

Nightstick

Bronco guy
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,929
I just started rebuilding my rear end and I'm trying to figure out the best way of painting it. I don't really wanna sandblast it, but if necessary I can. If not I'll go the wire wheel and disc route which I've found works pretty good.

I've read several threads on rattle can paint and of course the POR-15/chassis black threads. I don't have a gun or a compressor capable of handling long spraying projects. I can get them but that's money I don't really wanna spend at this point. When it's time to do the frame I'll have it sandblasted and do the rest myself, but I don't know when that's gonna be.

So the question is, what's the best way to go to paint the rear end? Is rattle can primer okay, and is rattle can paint going to hold up at well as other paints? I've used industrial paint made by strathmore to paint a trailer I bought and it still looks great. It was actually made for a sprayer but I put it on with a brush.
 

fordguy

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 23, 2005
Messages
5,628
my experience with por has always been good. i am going to paint my rear end and front end with por and overcoat it with chassis black. if it works like any other por product it should be more than sufficient. powdercoating alone for the dana 44 was 275.00. i sandblasted the dana but will more than likely wire brush the nine inch.
 

rudy16

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
106
I've painted POR with a brush works fine just is more tedious and slower than spraying but it leveled out fine and u couldn't tell it was brushed. POR would get my vote.
 

JIMS74

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Messages
412
Loc.
PORTSMOUTH, VA.
I used rattle can primer and paint, for easy touch up if I change, damage, or add things later.
 

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Mill KNOB

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,684
Loc.
Rock Hill, SC
I like POR.. But if you could get it powder coated then it is there for life. I plan on having mine powder coated once I take on that project.
 

BicksBronc

Full Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2007
Messages
341
Loc.
Concord, NC
We had the 9" sandblasted. We made covers for the axle tubes and the carriage opening. All of our frames, D44's and 9"'s have been sprayed with Dupont Imron and has turned out great.
 
OP
OP
Nightstick

Nightstick

Bronco guy
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,929
Yeah I'm probably gonna get the frame powdercoated. My only concern with doing that is making changes to it after that is done. It's easy to say "I'm gonna get everything welded on then powdercoat it" but who knows if I might come up with another change and have to grind off the coating. Another concern I have is if I paint everything besides the frame which will be powdercoated, will the painted surfaces look as good as powder 5 years down the road...

Everyone here seems to swear by POR so I'll more than likely use that... Is there a rattle can primer that is better than the rest?
 

reynard101

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 19, 2006
Messages
1,098
Yeah I'm probably gonna get the frame powdercoated. My only concern with doing that is making changes to it after that is done. It's easy to say "I'm gonna get everything welded on then powdercoat it" but who knows if I might come up with another change and have to grind off the coating. Another concern I have is if I paint everything besides the frame which will be powdercoated, will the painted surfaces look as good as powder 5 years down the road...

Everyone here seems to swear by POR so I'll more than likely use that... Is there a rattle can primer that is better than the rest?

POR stands for Paint Over Rust. I'm not sure if your asking about a primer to put on before the POR, but if you are you don't need one. Do follow the instructions for POR for best results. I'd also recommend the chassis coat for the POR as regular POR does not have a UV stabilizer in it and the black can fade.
 
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Nightstick

Nightstick

Bronco guy
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,929
POR stands for Paint Over Rust. I'm not sure if your asking about a primer to put on before the POR, but if you are you don't need one. Do follow the instructions for POR for best results. I'd also recommend the chassis coat for the POR as regular POR does not have a UV stabilizer in it and the black can fade.

Lol, I didn't know that! I just watched the video, cool stuff! That makes things a little easier. POR and chassis black it is, thx
 

Sylar

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2008
Messages
72
Loc.
Cleveland, TX
Another option that I have used which works GREAT, is Magnetpaints Chassis Saver. It is a paint over rust product, it was initially formulated for industrial bulldozer blades so the companies would have less maintenance downtime for re-painting. It flows out great with a sponge brush or can be sprayed. i have noticed BETTER results with the brush. It glosses up nicely. The silver has higher solid content than the black, so I use the silver under my topcoats on core-supports and all that are exposed to acid. POR is good too, but just another option for ya :)
 

johnnybgood74

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 4, 2009
Messages
1,135
Loc.
boise, idaho
i love POR also! it is an awesome product. i brushed everything on my stuff and you cant see a single brush stroke. i use foam brushes too. they seem to smooth out the POR better and spread more evenly. i did my frame and various other parts in silver. i would recommend spraying silver over brushing it. it left streaks in the metallic finish. it was totally smooth but you could see streaks in the paint itself.
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
The ONLY way I'd powder coat a frame of any chassis parts would be on a show only trailer queen. Powder can chip and flake just like paint, and rust can actually start undernieth it and cause other hidden problems. Powder isn't very repairable, as it has to be re-powder coated, OR painted over.

I would paint it with rust bullet or por15, whick if applied properly is rock ass hard. Yes it can chip too, but it's easily repairable. If you ever have to weld anything or do any repairs you can easily touch up the area.
 
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OP
Nightstick

Nightstick

Bronco guy
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,929
I put a "basket" together for the products I need to do the rear end and it came out to $115. I've seen people post that if you don't use it, it goes bad after a little while. I think it makes more sense to get everything ready to paint and do it all at once. Since I was confused as to what exactly POR was and now I know what it is, I'll prolly just do everything with it including the frame. Thanks again.
 

SoCal68Bronco

Sr. Member
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
387
Loc.
San Diego, CA.
I thought these pics would come in handy...
The frame has been mediablasted and epoxy primered.
 

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