Cooling System Fills/Drains Only 2.5 Gals

[bostonbronconut]

I am probably looking into this too much but I feel like something is wonky with my cooling system. I've recently replaced all of my hoses and I can only drain and fill the system with about 2.5 gallons when a stock system should hold about 4 gallons (see five-gallon bucket img). The radiator is (probably) a stock 3 core and the engine is (probably) a 302.

Here is what I've done thus far:

1. Drained the coolant from the radiator and by removing the bottom radiator hose AND raised the backend of the Bronco.

2. Flushed the system using Prestone Radiator Flush

3. Flushed the systems using the Peak Flush Kit (hose adapter)

4. Pulled/Opened all heater knobs during flushing and draining

5. Used a pressure kit to try to remove any and all water/coolant

6. Used a no-spill funnel while flushing/filling to burb the system

It should be noted that I haven't had any overheating issues and I am probably overthinking this. So, I'm I crazy?

 

[tirewater]

The block holds quite a bit of coolant. If the engine's stock, there will be a square head plug fitting on both sides of the block. Remove those and the rest of the coolant will drain out.

 

[Rustytruck]

When filling the system put the wheels up, I use ramps but can do it on a curb if traffic wont kill you. fill the radiator and run the engine until the thermostat opens up top hose will get hot and coolant level will drop in the radiator. when that happens then fill the radiator to the top if you have a coolant recovery system then cap it and fill the coolant recovery bottle to the proper fill line. If the system is working properly you may need to add some coolant recovery bottle in the next couple of days.

 

[bostonbronconut]

The block holds quite a bit of coolant. If the engine's stock, there will be a square head plug fitting on both sides of the block. Remove those and the rest of the coolant will drain out.

Welp, I tried removing the passenger side drain plug and it stripped. I'm going to give the driver-side plug a shot in a minute but any recommendations on getting the PS plug out? I assume using one of these kits is the recommend method of removing it: https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Stripped-Extractor-Remover-Broken/dp/B0883575ZJ/

 

[tirewater]

Welp, I tried removing the passenger side drain plug and it stripped. I'm going to give the driver-side plug a shot in a minute but any recommendations on getting the PS plug out? I assume using one of these kits is the recommend method of removing it: https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Stripped-Extractor-Remover-Broken/dp/B0883575ZJ/

Do you mean it's rounded off? If so, I'd just leave it alone. If the other side is hard to remove, leave it as well. Or apply some heat to see if you can loosen it.

If you remove one bolt, some of the water from the other side will drain out as well as their connected via the waterpump.

An extra couple of gallon left in the block is nothing to worry about. No use creating another can of worms.

 

[bostonbronconut]

Do you mean it's rounded off? If so, I'd just leave it alone. If the other side is hard to remove, leave it as well. Or apply some heat to see if you can loosen it.

I believe it is the stock allen wrench bolt similar to the attached image. And guess what? The DS plug got stripped too! I wasn't even applying a lot of force; I just think these things were done. The passenger-side plug is far enough out that I can get some pliers on it and try to turn it. Any risk in doing that?

 

[tirewater]

I believe it is the stock allen wrench bolt similar to the attached image. And guess what? The DS plug got stripped too! I wasn't even applying a lot of force; I just think these things were done. The passenger-side plug is far enough out that I can get some pliers on it and try to turn it. Any risk in doing that?

I'm pretty sure the stock plugs are square head NPT pipe fittings.

Your plug looks like the ones that come with the freeze plug kits used for our engines.

I've stripped that type as well. If you get a purchase on the threads, try vice grips. If not you could drill and use a bolt extractor. However if you drill a hole through it and don't remove it, then you're looking at added hassles.

My suggestion, leave it be until the engine comes out of the vehicle.

 

[Rustytruck]

if you clamp down on it to turn it out keep and allen key in the top so the plug doesnt crush down.

 

[bostonbronconut]

Are there any other methods for getting the water/coolant of the engine block? Can I run the engine for about a minute or two and you’ll get cycled out? Or should I just fill/flush it with distilled water, Then remove about 2 gallons of said distilled water and fill it with 2 gallons of concentrated coolant?

I’m thinking the last option is probably the best and safest. What do you guys think? Thanks!

 

[Rustytruck]

your making a big deal out of nothing. if you have a brass radiator fill with water run it until warmed up then drain it fill it up with the proper antifreeze mix. yes you should use distilled water or premixed antifreeze. now if you forsaken all the cast iron components for all aluminium and then you would be looking for a different coolant all together. as long as ferrous metal is involved you just use standard 50/50 antifreeze mix.