Cut off Drop Track Bar Bracket? Opinions and Experience please

[trailpsycho]

I have been reading that the Drop track bar bracket can damage the frame as you start to run bigger tires and beat on the truck a bit. I already have a Drop Track bar Bracket installed from my initial lift (2.5"). I am doing a frame off build and installing a 5.5" susp lift (deaver coils and leafs) with Cage long arms and shock mounts. I plan on running 35s or 36s with 4.88 gears (ARB front Detroit rear). Should I ditch the Drop track bar bracket for an axle mounted track bar riser bracket? If I do, should I just cut off the extension along the bottom of the orginal bracket? Seems right. To any of you that have done this, is there still room within to mount the track bar with the two brackets there. I am about to have my frame hot-dip galvanized and coated in industrial grade polyurethane...dont want to have to do frame repairs down the road or foul up the coating by having to grind to re-clearance for the track bar. Am I over thinking this, being paranoid or on the right track? Please give me feedback soon as I have only a window of a couple of hours after I pick-up the frame from the sandblaster before I have to make the out of town road trip to the galvanizer. Yes, pics will follow. Thanks for any feedback and advice.

John

 

[airman]

If you have the big one from Duffs you can cut it at the bottom. I didn't and I just cut the welds with a cutoff wheel untill I could beat the thing out and be back to stock. No the bushing track bars will not fit inside of an inner drop bracket. A heim might but depth may be a problem. Didnt try and didn't measure.

I did that because I mounted the tie rod over the knuckle and went back to a stock pitman arm. I also did a WH lower riser and like it. I also used a BC Saddle to mount the drag link and really lined up the trac bar and drag link.

The way I drive I would probably never have hit the frame or the tie rod with my drop upper mount but one day the kids will get ahold of it and they may not be as careful as I am.

 

[SaddleUp]

I took a grinder and carefully took the drop bracket off it (grinding out the welds) and then cleaned it up before I welded it back onto the frame. (I'm one of the ones that ripped it off the frame)

 

[trailpsycho]

I am starting to think that maybe it was never welded...cant be sure till I get the fram back tomorrow AM, but I am crossing my fingers...if not I can make time, I guess...its got to be done right. I mean, otherwise, it just wont be the same when I roll it. :-X %)

I already have an adjustable track bar...not sure what steering setup I will go to...I hadnt wheeled it that hard or much (do drive it pretty hard though) but the F-150 linkage definitely has a bow in the tie-rod...probably wont hold up well with 35s. StoneCrusher and BCBroncos tie rod over set ups both sound sweet...opinions?

 

[trailpsycho]

Update:

It was never welded....being a slacker pays sometimes. I was able to unbolt it and beat it out of the mounting. So now I have a drop track bar bracket to sell with my 2.5 inch coils and leafs. I am really excited about this next step...they did a great job on the sandblasting. I will post pics of the frame after it is galvanized and then with the "acrylathane" coating next week. Happy trails to all.

John

 

[76 bronco J]

galvanic coatings(zinc) are very unstable by nature since they are sacrifical, they do not accept coatings over them well since it self is slowly over time being removed to protect the base metal, I chose the cheap route and have used cold galvanizing spray(zinc in a can) with great results, I have this stuff sprayed everywhere I'm not worried about the primer look, work's very good on fittting's and areas with disimilar metals, the cold galvanizing is also very easy to remove compared to hot dipped

 

[trailpsycho]

NOT trying to be short or sound like an a$$hole, but I am not an idiot...yes, cold galvanizing is very easy to abraid off. I am having the frame industrially Hot DiP Galvanized at a plant. HDG metallurgically binds the zinc to the steel...the only way to get it off is to grind it or sandblast it off [Depending on what stage the life cycle of the zinc-->to zinc-oxide is in it can be coated with an appropriate type coating system...typically they will do a quick blast to remove a very light layer of zinc depending on how fresh the zinc is just to get back to back zinc, then they coat with an industrial direct to metal coating]. The same plant is then using the one of the post-galavanizing industrial coatings that they use on heavy machinery, cell towers, telephone poles, in ground/above ground storage containers, etc that is designed to go over HDG onto my frame...using such a coating extends the life of the galvanized product 1.5-3X the life of HDG alone, so I will worry about it again in 40-60 years. Thanks for your concern though...seriously.

Once I have some firsthand experience with the process, the coatings and firm contacts with the plant (one of my very good friends since middle school is a sales rep for them), I will have pics and info for those in the southeast/midwest that have interest in this type of a process. Its overkill...but I plan on DD mine and playing hard and dont want to worry about it again. This is way beyond Zinc It! or Rustoleum. But not as $$ as you might think either.

 

[76 bronco J]

the point I was trying to make about the hot dip & additional coating were like you said grinding or blasting for repairs or modification's would be necessary, I drive mine daily also and need to be able to check for hairline crack or damage which could not be seen with coatings- be it rubber undercoating ,bedliner etc., point in case I just drove to my friend's in Rochester,TX. from Houston which is 458 miles, after barreling down the farm roads in the tractor ruts I developed a small crack at the back of the rear driver side hanger, it was easily seen and repaired thanks to the cheap and easy removable zinc out of the can, I had my truck since 96 and even places where the zinc is scratch or rubbed of still is not rusting, I've seen the same issue with a wrecked truck with rhinoliner all inside it was a complete nightmare to fixed because of the coating, powder coating is the same deal just a pain in the butt on a daily driver that needs to be serviced, even if frame is considered to be finished- if you PLAN to drive yours everywhere like I do -trust me your not