D44 inner axle seal

[74BroncoCO]

I have a '77 HP D44 out of an F-150 in my bronco with a lock-rite. As I was topping off all fluids the other day, oil came running out near the inner axle shaft on the inner knuckle. Nice and milky.

First is that called the inner axle seal? And how much oil does a D44 take and should I run anything special for the lock-right?

Thanks!

J.D.

 

[TOFIC]

IF the fluid coming out was milky I would be concerned. that usually suggests something in the fluid.
As to amount it is usually around 2 quarts and with a lockright a friction modifier is a good idea. If you are using synthetic gear oils not to worry the oil comes with the additive.
TOFIC

 

[74BroncoCO]

Tofic, thanks! I am sure it's got water in it as I have done a couple creek crossing in the past weeks. I will be sure to drain and clean it real good!

J.D.

 

[68 Broncoholic]

Sounds like the inner axle seal is wasted.
If you keep running the front axle with water in there, the gear oil turns into a thick white/gray substance and does damage. Definately clean it out ASAP but the seals will leak even easier with new fluid, they have to be changed out. Pull the axle shafts (inspect u-joint while there). Once th ediff cover is off, mark the caps holding the carrier in top left, top right, pry it out using a pry bar, get ready to catch it.
Pry out the old seals with a screw driver if thats all you have and tap in the new ones. Reinstall. You will be glad you took the extra time.

 

[74BroncoCO]

I picked up those inner axle seals last night and started to pull stuff apart. I have one side out, but I got two seals in case. I might as well replace them both while in there. The one main question I have is the seals have an inside diameter of about 2"+/-. This seems way to large to seal oil in around the axle shaft?? Does it seal somewhere else or did I get the wrong one? Also the cap bolts need torqued when going back in, is there anything else I should know before I tear into it? Thanks for your help!

J.D.

 

[supermottl]

Sounds like maybe you got the wrong seals. No way they are 2". ?:? compare the new with the old to be sure.

Yes, the bearing caps need to be torqued... I used 50 ft/lbs I think ?:? ?:? ?:? . I can check my Haynes for yo if you don't have...

 

[74BroncoCO]

Dang parts stores! One told me there wasn't such a thing and then the other gives me the wrong part?? Anyway I have a haynes book too and haven't had a lot of time to read through, but I couldn't find a specific section on it last night??

J.D.

Keep in mind that this is a narrowed '77 F-150 D44 if you think that would make a difference on the size of the seal.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

It sure sounds like you got the inner hub seal. You need the inner axle seal. It helps to have the installer tool like completeoffroad.com sells

 

[74BroncoCO]

by inner hub seal, you mean the one that actually taps into the back of the spindle and holds that inner bearing in? That's possible, it looks to be about that size. I also got a spindle seal, which is sorta a kit that came with a roller bearing (inside spindle), small seal for roller bearings and a larger seal that I think rests on the shoulder of the axle shaft and rides against the spindle, but these are both grease seals and not oil seals. The new ones do look like oil seals??

I just hate to tear into it and have the wrong parts and have to go to the store to get the right ones.

Thanks for your help!

J.D.

 

[supermottl]

Look here:
http://www.broncograveyard.com/dia/6/d44diaaxle.jpg

it says "axle seal". Take this diagram to your parts junky and tell them what you need. Also, the new seals will only be a 1-piece, not the 2-piece you see in the pic...

 

[74BroncoCO]

That's the picture I have in my Haynes, but Autozone or Car Quest don't seem to have the right part. The Inside diameter is still to large to seal against the axle shaft. I will be calling my dad who says he has a Dana/Spicer catalog and then napa. I just can't believe I can't find this. Everyone brings me out a inner hub seal. I just bought a set of "maybe's" at Car quest for $45. If they work, that'll be fine by me.

J.D.

 

[74BroncoCO]

Got 'em...finally

OK, I think I have the right parts now. My dad looked up the part number in his Dana/Spicer catalog and said that the Chicago Rawhide number is 13165, which cross-references Timken to 5131 for $4.99 at Autozone. These look the closest and I will know tonight!

J.D.

 

[SaddleUp]

Do not use a friction modifier with a lockright. The only purpose of the friction modifier is to make the gear oil more slippery so that the clutches in a limited slip carrier are less likely to lock up. On a locker it is just a waste of money as it doesn't provide any benefit.

 

[74BroncoCO]

Do not use a friction modifier with a lockright. The only purpose of the friction modifier is to make the gear oil more slippery so that the clutches in a limited slip carrier are less likely to lock up. On a locker it is just a waste of money as it doesn't provide any benefit.

Thanks, I hadn't bought any yet!