Edit "ITS IN." Anyone install a Mini StaK 3 speed yet?

[OsideDave]

Looking for tips. What clocking position - please mention what trans and body lift.

Going to try and get C4 in tomorrow and possibly Stak. I bolted them together today but its too cumbersome on the trans jack, can't keep it safely on the jack so I will install separately. Going for no body lift and plan on cutting floor if needed. I will post pix.

 

[OsideDave]

After the better part of day I got the C4 and StaK in. Not too happy about cutting up my floorboard to fit it but its no show/original truck and I do not care for body lifts. I have it clocked at position # 3 and it definately hangs down, about the same level as the radius arm brackets. I could likely clock it up 1 more position but it would require more floorboard trimming on the drivers side. I'll have to think that one over some more.

The good - its in. The bad - it may have to come out. The ugly - my poor floorboard, but that can be fixed. Any ideas one where to get material or another tunnel for floorboard?

 

[av bronco]

You might have to fabracate it, jbg has all kinds of floor sheetmetal as do the other vendors,do you have any body lift?

 

[mr.n]

Your already doing the floor... clock it higher!
Go for as flat a belly as you can.

 

[Nobody]

You already hacked up the floor. Might as well go all the way. What ratios did you get?

 

[behemoth]

Dave,
Looks good, if you can clock it higher and still have the seats well then I think I would go for it.

As far as the sheet metal goes, I have some steel 16G and 18g that we could use to make the floor pans.

you have been busy.


Bill

 

[Tito]

Thats super pretty in there!

 

[bax]

I know you said no to a body lift but at least one inch of lift would let you put your floor support back. 1'' body lifts are easy once you get the old mounts off.
Put a one inch body lift on it then clock it up as flat as you can go. Then rebuild the floor. It will be even sweeter than it is now.

 

[73stallion]

dave i don't see why you couldn't remove that breather fitting and put a 90* fitting instead to help clear the floor better.

 

[OsideDave]

Thanks for the opinions guys, I agree, it should be clocked higher. Yesterday I was tired and didn't want to conceive pulling it out again. I'm sure I'll be motivated again - just not today, 2 full days wears you out.

To clock it, the floor is definately going to need more trimming or body lift as Bax suggested. From looking at the photos it seems that a 2 inch body lift minimum is required to fit this thing in and thats not including the breather line fitting. (Ben a standard 90* fitting will likely hit the case when threading in. I will look for a 45* or something else) So my point is that I saw no choice but to cut the floor because I didn't want a 2 or 3 inch body lift - I still feel bad about it though. Anyhow, just wanted this to be known for anyone considering this case.

Bill, I did find this tunnel cover from Protofab but it doesn't really fit my application so I may take you up on us making one. Anyone know of other mfg'rs of products like this?
http://www.protofab4x4.com/products.php?ID=00&ID2=8

 

[behemoth]

I have put a 1" body lift on two of my trucks, I am not a fan of them either but the 1" is not bad at all.

On the rusty truck the stock body mounts were compressed/decayed to almost nothing. The 1" lift did not cause any significant issues, tanks, shift linkage, and or steering.

For the floor, just cut some cardboard and make a template for the floor. That will make it quicker when the floor work starts.

 

[mr.n]

I'd also look at dropping the back of the t-case down.
The C-4 doesn't have much hanging down, an the motor mounts will take a little movement.
Improve your drive shaft angle and cut less floor, maybe wear out the motor mounts a little faster.

 

[OsideDave]

Dave,
Looks good, if you can clock it higher and still have the seats well then I think I would go for it.
Bill

Thats the hard part, still having support on the right front seat mount bolt. I may have to reinforce that area if I remove any more floor board.

 

[OsideDave]

I'd also look at dropping the back of the t-case down.
The C-4 doesn't have much hanging down, an the motor mounts will take a little movement.
Improve your drive shaft angle and cut less floor, maybe wear out the motor mounts a little faster.

Good point. One thing I have not checked yet is whether or not my crossmember will line up at the present height. That would be nice if it is already too high with jack under it, then I may have more room to clock it higher, I doubt it though.

 

[trailpsycho]

Just go with the Wh 1" integrated body mount/lift. Its a really nice product and will get you where you need to be. I would second Ben's recommendation of installing a 90 degree nipple instead...that straight one is begging to be broken off (and then everything would most likely have to come back out).