Engine Cutoff issues, 69 302 engine

[OwenJohnson]

I was wondering if any of yall had encountered this problem before. My neighbor and I got his Bronco up and going, after sitting for around three years. Driving around was great fun, but after the drive, we went to turn off the engine and it was still firing, albeit at a much slower and less consistent rate. My first guess is that it has something to do with the fuel pump not completely stopping, followed by an issue with the carburetor. Any Ideas?

 

[ared77]

Off the top of my head I'd suspect the engine relay or "solenoid" as it's called. Many are out there that were made in China and have caused a lot of problems!

 

[spap]

Was it diseling. Or did it sound like a diesel puff s of darker exhaust

 

[gick70]

Maybe timing!

 

[jckkys]

It sounds like dieseling that a warmed up engine will do with the throttle open after shut down. The '70s engines did it consistently, so Ford and others put anti-dieseling solenoids on the carb that held the throttle open till the ignition was shut off. Yours likely just needs the curb idle set to 650 RPM. The spec curb idle on 1972s for instance was 800 RPM with the solenoid activated. This will diesel after shut down unless the solenoid is deactivated which happens when the ignition is turned off.

 

[OwenJohnson]

It looks like it was dieseling, however we tried to get her going today, and discovered that the carburetor was leaking fuel, seemingly where the throttle is attached. We tried tightening down the obvious bolts but that didn't really fix much. A relative of mine who runs a classic car restoration shop recommended either rebuilding the carb, or simply replacing. Is that a smart move? And if so, should I stick with the 2 barrel or splurge for a 4?

 

[surfer-b]

If its the stock 2 barrel stick with it, great carbs, easy to rebuild and tune.

 

[jckkys]

Fixing leaks by tightening bolts and screws is a bad idea. The aluminum carburetor parts can only take very light torque before the parts are bent. Then you have both fuel and vacuum leaks that can't be fixed without straightening the gasket surfaces. There are no replacements. Ford hasn't made '69 2100s for 50 yrs. and the so called rebuilt carbs at parts stores aren't likely to be the correct part. Ford calibrated these carbs for a particular engine, trans, and vehicle. There were dozens for any one year. The large scale rebuilders don't even have a large percentage of the variations. So they don't even try to get you the correct one. Often they don't even offer the correct model when they don't have the one you need. Most of these "rebuilders" remove the ID tags and replace it with a meaningless label they print. Don't ever surrender your original as a core, a huge mistake. Help your friend rebuild it. Check the gasket surfaces with a straight edge.

 

[Skytrooper15]

It looks like it was dieseling, however we tried to get her going today, and discovered that the carburetor was leaking fuel, seemingly where the throttle is attached. We tried tightening down the obvious bolts but that didn't really fix much. A relative of mine who runs a classic car restoration shop recommended either rebuilding the carb, or simply replacing. Is that a smart move? And if so, should I stick with the 2 barrel or splurge for a 4?

Since it looks like the carb needs work anyway why not take the 4 screws out of the air horn and just swivel it away so you can see what is happening inside the carburetor.Be safer if you have someone turn the key to start and turn the engine over like you want it to crank.Never had a problem doing this but it doesn't hurt to have a fire extinguisher handy just in case and be sure to have the transmission in park position and if a manual transmission have it in neutral with the wheels blocked so the Bronco doesn't move while working on it.If gas is spraying out you will see how the float is working and what all moves in the inner workings of the carb.Hope this helps and be careful please.

 

[jckkys]

Removing the top is necessary to set the fuel level while the engine is idling. It's the only way to do it. Setting the float level is only 1/2 the job. The dieseling is all about the curb idle setting being too high. The carb's internals aren't the problem. Slow down the curb idle to 650 RPM as Ford specified. The mounting stud nuts only get 5-6 ft./lbs torque. More will bend the ears.