Extending Wheelbase info as well as pic request

[A4x4Junky]

I changed this message to also ask for pics. If I go ahead with this change, I will end up 1.5" to 2 " in the front and have heard 4" is all I can go without serious modifications with the BC tank in therear. I also dont want this to look out of place with the wheel well openings. If anyone can post pics or links to pics with similar amounts stretched it would be greatly appreciated. Trying to convince my wife it wont look wrong in the long run. Thanks

Im am wondering what everyones opinion on the advantages/disadvantages are of doing this. Have searched and found a bunch of threads on this. I think I sorta have a grasp on what should be done.

My truck will be 98% street (daily driver) with 2% offroad (if I can find some place the cops wont harass me). Was thinking 3-4" in the rear. I dont want to modify my BC tank. From what I read I can go 4" with the bc tank? Can anyone confirm this?

Was thinking 2" in the front. Can I move the coil buckets up that 2" and not mess up steering, track bar?

I am going to have the body off soon, so figure this would be a good time to do this. Is going from 92ish to 98ish really worth the work involved? Has anyone moved theirs this much and have pics to show how much bodywork was needed?

Any other thoughts and critiques welcome.

Thanks,

Anthony

 

[Heus33]

Just curious - why stretch the wheelbase if the truck isn't going offroad? What are your reasons?

 

[A4x4Junky]

Just curious - why stretch the wheelbase if the truck isn't going offroad? What are your reasons?

It will go offroad every chance I get, but I wont pretend it will spend most of its time there. Not a dedicated trail rig. I have heard stability both on and offroad is a reason to stretch the wheelbase. Extra stability for highway is a good thing if this is the case.

The only reason I am considering it right now is because I will have the body off, will be cleaning the frame and coating it. Figure if I was ever gonna do it, this would be the smartest time.

My lack of specific information is why this post is here. I am hoping people who have done this (or that understand the effects of this change) can explain the advantages both on and offroad. Besides the work involved, what possible negatives would I run into? Any bad side-effects of this change as far as handling?

Thanks,

Anthony

 

[NGABronco]

There's both the driveshafts, brake lines(both ends) and emergency brake cable that will all need extending, as well as wheel placement within the fender wells to be considered. A lot of work and expense for 4 inches.

I'm in the thought process of streaching one 10 inches, frame and body,
but I got a blank sheet of paper. I've got to put all new stuff under it anyway. Good luck!;D

 

[trailpsycho]

As far as handling and flex, its my understanding that you will see greater benefit from extended radius arms...if you are putting on a lift as well you can stretch the front a couple of inches at the same time...if you are planning to trim the fronts to put flares on anyway. Good luck.

 

[kb6677]

Mine has been stretched 14" since '03-12" in the frame and body, moved the rear axle back 2" over stock-
On road-better ride, more room in the eb-have a back seat and a nice size box behind the seat, tailgate still shuts......
Off road, the main reason for doing it, you reduce the stock eb wheelbase trick of the front tires climbing at the same time the rear hits on larger ledges. Speaking of ledges, the stretch reduces your front wheel stands and the rear up fun when dropping off steep stuff. A plus for some trails in Moab....
our stretch was done under the stock seat area of the tub in the only real straight part of the frame rails.
HTH,

 

[Madgyver]

Mine has been stretched 14" since '03-12" in the frame and body, moved the rear axle back 2" over stock-
On road-better ride, more room in the eb-have a back seat and a nice size box behind the seat, tailgate still shuts......
Off road, the main reason for doing it, you reduce the stock eb wheelbase trick of the front tires climbing at the same time the rear hits on larger ledges. Speaking of ledges, the stretch reduces your front wheel stands and the rear up fun when dropping off steep stuff. A plus for some trails in Moab....
our stretch was done under the stock seat area of the tub in the only real straight part of the frame rails.
HTH,

Karl, Is your cage tied into the frame? Maybe to help to keep it ridgid.

 

[bronko69er]

You probably con only go about 1.5" in the front.
Thats what I did. (Running a stock pitman arm)
Any farther and the drag link might hit the cross member on full stuff.
Also the drag link (pitman end) might hit the the top of the tie rod (with TRO and a drop pitman).
Just a few things to think about.

 

[kb6677]

Karl, Is your cage tied into the frame? Maybe to help to keep it ridgid.

Yes, -good call, right infront of the stock body(in drivers floor, not engine compartment) mount coming off both frame rails, we did a mount for "outriggers" which we bolt the rock skis to and then on the engine side there is a mount coming off the frame where the front of the cage is bolted through the floor and into/onto the plate coming off the frame.....same behind the seats and in the rear-we are tied into the frame in 6 places.....
Catch some fish for me this weekend Mad.!!!!

 

[A4x4Junky]

There's both the driveshafts, brake lines(both ends) and emergency brake cable that will all need extending, as well as wheel placement within the fender wells to be considered. A lot of work and expense for 4 inches.

I'm in the thought process of streaching one 10 inches, frame and body,
but I got a blank sheet of paper. I've got to put all new stuff under it anyway. Good luck!;D

The driveshaft is added expense, the brake lines will have to be replaced on this either way, the e-brake cable is added expense. I intend to run flares so I am hoping I can but/adjust as necessary to make them appear as normal as possible.

Thanks for the info,

Anthony

 

[A4x4Junky]

As far as handling and flex, its my understanding that you will see greater benefit from extended radius arms...if you are putting on a lift as well you can stretch the front a couple of inches at the same time...if you are planning to trim the fronts to put flares on anyway. Good luck.

I was hoping to run extended radius arms whether I extended the wheelbase or not. I will do the lift eventually, but it isnt in the budget right now.

Thanks,

Anthony

 

[A4x4Junky]

Mine has been stretched 14" since '03-12" in the frame and body, moved the rear axle back 2" over stock-
On road-better ride, more room in the eb-have a back seat and a nice size box behind the seat, tailgate still shuts......
Off road, the main reason for doing it, you reduce the stock eb wheelbase trick of the front tires climbing at the same time the rear hits on larger ledges. Speaking of ledges, the stretch reduces your front wheel stands and the rear up fun when dropping off steep stuff. A plus for some trails in Moab....
our stretch was done under the stock seat area of the tub in the only real straight part of the frame rails.
HTH,

After seeing a bunch of other stretches, I would love to go more than the 6ish I mention here. Problem with that is New Jersey and modifications are sometimes rough. Dont want to go through all that just for NJ to tell me I cant put it on the road.

Anthony

 

[A4x4Junky]

You probably con only go about 1.5" in the front.
Thats what I did. (Running a stock pitman arm)
Any farther and the drag link might hit the cross member on full stuff.
Also the drag link (pitman end) might hit the the top of the tie rod (with TRO and a drop pitman).
Just a few things to think about.

Things to look out for are always appreciated. Not sure exactly how far to go, but the more information I get the better set I will be.

Anthony

 

[NGABronco]

Hey Junky, I was asking a guy who may do my frame (he builds frames) and he started drawing pictures for me about the "Ackerman Effect" He got into how the axis of the spindle and the tie rod should intersect at the center of the rear axle and how he could make that happen on my EB project. Then he got on his laptop and started showing me how to design the proper caster
for the optimum a frame function??? I left a little dizzy. I'm going back tomorrow for another lesson. Will advise.;D

 

[A4x4Junky]

Hey Junky, I was asking a guy who may do my frame (he builds frames) and he started drawing pictures for me about the "Ackerman Effect" He got into how the axis of the spindle and the tie rod should intersect at the center of the rear axle and how he could make that happen on my EB project. Then he got on his laptop and started showing me how to design the proper caster
for the optimum a frame function??? I left a little dizzy. I'm going back tomorrow for another lesson. Will advise.;D

My head hurts a little for you ?:?

Anthony

 

[eb66to77]

As long as the Ackerman Effect that he is talking about is eliminating it. Ackerman Effect is the difference in the turning radius of the two front wheels. 4x4's don't like it when the tires are pointing in different directions. There are easier ways to correct this effect than making frame rail mods. Plus, a frame will only get it so far.

This is also one of the effects of the inverted-y steering system. One wheel is allowed to turn without being inline with the other.

 

[NGABronco]

Hey Junky, talked to my frame man again about "Ackerman", he didn't seem to think 8-10 inches would have much effect, but that he could heat and bend the steering arm a degree or two to correct it. Said he does it all the time on race cars.

Then he mentioned rollbacks and motor homes that have streched frames and the Akerman is not corrected and asked if i had ever noticed them chirping when backed up and I have.

I'm gonna' try to learn more.
See ya';D