Ford 9" disk brake caliper help!

[CabinCruiser]

I am trying to install the horsepower auto sales ford 9" disk brake conversion.

I can't get the calipers with brake pads installed to fit over the rotors. The instructions said that the piston might need to be retracted in order for them to fit.
I removed the spring, the ~17mm nut, the e-brake lever, the rubber and nylon washers, rotated the integrated hex nut counter clockwise and was able to push the piston further in using force. It didn't automatically retract when the integrated hex nut was turned, I had to push it. This was the result, the piston was flush with the housing.

By the time I replace the washers, lever, and tighten the nut, the piston has rebounded to the point it was at when it came out of the box.

At this level, the caliper with pads installed will not fit over the rotor. If I don't replace the washers, lever, and nut, I am able to BARELY fit the caliper and pads over the rotor. Should I just install it over the rotor that way and then replace all the listed hardware? My concern about that is that the e-brake lever might not be clocked nicely one the integrated hex nut of the piston to position it against the stop it has on the caliper housing.

Does anyone have any advise for me? even with the piston retracted as much as possible without the e-brake spring lever installed, the pads still rub on the rotor when in place...is that normal?

Thanks, I'm stuck.

 

[Steve83]

Post pics of the bracket on the axle, with the caliper as close as you can get it to installed. Post a link to the instructions.

 

[CabinCruiser]

I will take that picture this evening after work.
The included instructions appear to be exactly the same as these instructions from the JEGS kit, without the JEGS logo.
https://www.jegs.com/installationinstructions/500/555/555-630602_630603.pdf

This summit kit appears to be basically identical, and these instructions have some more helpful images.
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-bk1626.pdf

This part concerns me:
"You now have the caliper in its final location. We need to check how tight the brake pad is against the rotor. If you can't move the brake pad with your fingers go down a spacer size. If the brake pad is really loose go up a spacer size. You are looking for just a little bit of movement between the pad and the rotor on both sides of the rotor. If there is too much or too little movement please go back to step 6 and try either the smaller or larger spacers to correct your caliper/rotor spacing issue."

One thing I haven't thought about yet...... when I tighten the guide pins to secure the caliper in place, will that force the piston back in to the caliper? If that doesn't happen, there is no way I will have any play with the pads at all when installed over the rotor. I'll try installing it without the e-brake lever this evening and see what happens.

I appreciate any help from anyone else that has had an issue.

 

[toddz69]

At this level, the caliper with pads installed will not fit over the rotor. If I don't replace the washers, lever, and nut, I am able to BARELY fit the caliper and pads over the rotor. Should I just install it over the rotor that way and then replace all the listed hardware? My concern about that is that the e-brake lever might not be clocked nicely one the integrated hex nut of the piston to position it against the stop it has on the caliper housing.

Does anyone have any advise for me? even with the piston retracted as much as possible without the e-brake spring lever installed, the pads still rub on the rotor when in place...is that normal?

Thanks, I'm stuck.

It's been several decades since I've messed around with these calipers but yes, I would get the calipers onto the rotors and then try to get the washers, lever, nut, etc. back onto the caliper.

Update - found this video that shows how to retract the pistons (and they don't appear to be coming back out while he's talking):

Todd Z.

 

[Steve83]

The 2 long unthreaded caliper mounting bolts have no impact on how the pads press against the rotor. They just hold the calper & pads in-place on the bracket; but they apply no clamping force to the pads. It looks like you should be able to assemble the caliper by its lower bolt onto the bracket, but leave it hanging out from rotor for access to the piston face. Then retract the piston, and quickly drop the pads in & rotate the caliper onto the rotor so you can install the upper bolt before the piston rebounds. Then re-assemble whatever was removed to retract the piston.

 

[1969miller]

I did not read all of the replys in this thread, but here is a video i found helpful when clocking my ebrake arms and adjusting the caliper.

Good luck!

 

[CabinCruiser]

Those videos are enormously helpful, thank you both.

 

[CabinCruiser]

In case anyone else runs into trouble, this video is also great.