Frame notch for atlas 4 (tips welcome)

[Derekryan84]

I'm going start tomorrow when I get back home from work. Here's a few pics of what I'm going to do.
my questions is where would you add any support and what thickness metal would you use?

Also note I have the toms extended radius arms and their matching bracket which happens to line up perfectly where I'm going to notch. It will be a brace in itslef

 

[68rustbucket]

I just finished my atlas 4 install. Didn't have the guts to notch the frame. I've got Duffs long arms. You could take the piece that you cut out and reverse it, then weld it back in to start with.

 

[Derekryan84]

I just finished my atlas 4 install. Didn't have the guts to notch the frame. I've got Duffs long arms. You could take the piece that you cut out and reverse it, then weld it back in to start with.

I don't blame you. I would rather tackle it now while I have the body off than realize later I should've done it. Feel free to post some pics of what yours looks like I would like to see it.

 

[68rustbucket]

Its definitely way easier doing it with the body off!

 

[welndmn]

I notched the frame on one I did and used 3/16 to fill it back in.
this guy also had duff long arms, I ended up welding the frame brackets on as there was no more room for the bolts.

 

[Derekryan84]

I notched the frame on one I did and used 3/16 to fill it back in.
this guy also had duff long arms, I ended up welding the frame brackets on as there was no more room for the bolts.

I was thinking 3/16 is what I would use. I don't think the frame itself is that thick. And my brackets are welded on already I didn't have the option to bolt them on. Thanks for the input

 

[mp]

Atlas 4 shifted to the passenger side, and no need for notch! And clocked flat!

 

[Derekryan84]

Atlas 4 shifted to the passenger side, and no need for notch! And clocked flat!

Well it seems that's what I'm going to do also. I can't get a true flat clock on mine for whatever reason. The Allen bolt is right where I need the bolt hole but it's flat enough. If I got the next it 2 holes and the front output is high.

 

[DrLathrop]

Atlas 4 shifted to the passenger side, and no need for notch! And clocked flat!

Can you give a little more info on how you shifted it to the passenger side?

 

[73azbronco]

Don't take this the wrong way but as an engineer, I think you just lost about 50% of the frame strength notching it like that.

The only way I see to add strength back in is to install some truss on top, outside, and or bottom of frame. Since the top section is obviously out due to Atlas, I think you need to look at some truss both below and outside the notch. This would add strength in vertical and lateral forces.

Just curious, have you ever seen anyone do this much of a notch on a frame?

 

[welndmn]

Don't take this the wrong way but as an engineer, I think you just lost about 50% of the frame strength notching it like that.

The only way I see to add strength back in is to install some truss on top, outside, and or bottom of frame. Since the top section is obviously out due to Atlas, I think you need to look at some truss both below and outside the notch. This would add strength in vertical and lateral forces.

Just curious, have you ever seen anyone do this much of a notch on a frame?

It's actually quite common.
The frame were poorly build from the factory, having a proper box (not 2 sections of c channel selected together) gives it a stronger bond.
Extra reinforcement comes from the skid plates.

 

[Derekryan84]

Don't take this the wrong way but as an engineer, I think you just lost about 50% of the frame strength notching it like that.

The only way I see to add strength back in is to install some truss on top, outside, and or bottom of frame. Since the top section is obviously out due to Atlas, I think you need to look at some truss both below and outside the notch. This would add strength i
Just curious, have you ever seen anyone do this much of a notch on a frame?

The pictures are of another person's frame. I just used them for an example. I didn't notch mine yet and I'm thinking I'm not going to since I can't flat clock the atlas. The hole I need is where the blue bolt is.

 

[Derekryan84]

Can you give a little more info on how you shifted it to the passenger side?

I'm building my own crossmembers. On for the tranny and one for the atlas. Other than that I left the motor mounts unbolted and just pulled it over. It didn't have to move much to clear the frame. I didn't measure but nothing else seems to be in a bind. I'll have to use a skinny driveshaft in the front since my c6 takes a lot of room. I would think if you use your stock tranny and crossmember you would need to modify that but I don't have either so I don't know

 

[driveshafter]

driveshafts

You are gonna need a 2".120 wall drive-line in the front i can use yours and machine the ball stud and stub down and re-tube but if the u joints are bad or anythings wrong you'll need a new drive -line any way because of cost of machining if you send me your core ill knock off 30 dollars so a new one ujoints every thing new 2" .120 wall is gonna run you 220.00 plus shipping

 

[Derekryan84]

You are gonna need a 2".120 wall drive-line in the front i can use yours and machine the ball stud and stub down and re-tube but if the u joints are bad or anythings wrong you'll need a new drive -line any way because of cost of machining if you send me your core ill knock off 30 dollars so a new one ujoints every thing new 2" .120 wall is gonna run you 220.00 plus shipping

Thanks for the info! I'll keep you in mind when I get to that point.

 

[carmi]

Do you have a high pinion 44? When I tried to clock my Atlas 4 I was unable to get reasonable angles on the front drive line with a standard 44. I left my down but was able to get about an 1/8" clearance between the frame and transfer case when clocked by loosening the motor mounts and pushing it toward the passenger side. At the very least you should only have to notch the frame about 1/2". I am using the WH extreme motor mounts. I also have about a 3-1/2" lift with a 3" body lift. I think the body lift is important to allow for clearance if you choose to shift it over.