frame paint / POR15 prep question

[malcolmzilla]

Got my 77 chassis loaded up to take out pressure wash, then have some body mounts and bump stops, frame horns to fix.

Trying to think ahead as to what I'm gonna finish the frame in.

On the POR15 website it says that rusty metal is the best for POR to adhere to? If that's the case should I skip sandblasting it (site says an extra step is required then)? Sure saves me some work if so.

Also kinda liking the idea of using the Rustoleum rust reformer or stripper, the rattle can zinc primer and gloss or hammered topcoat, easy for touch ups, easy to locate, easy clean up, sprays as opposed to brush, and the frame has held up for 30 years untreated so with a bit of paint another 30 should be OK? The inside will remain untreated anyhow.

Anyone used the Rustoleum stuff?

TIA

 

[Salgood]

Mal,
I just finished up POR-15'ing my frame. I did sand the whole frame and sandblast the tight areas. From my understanding POR-15 adheres best to a rough surface. I ordered the Metal Ready solution along with the POR-15 paint from the POR-15 Depot and applied that to the frame before the POR-15. Basically it etches the metal and leaves a chemical on the frame that helps the POR-15 bond better.

I was very happy with the way my frame turned out - We put on three complete coats. Just a note - I let the 2nd coat cure all the way and as a result I had to wet sand the entire frame before I could apply the third coat. Keep that in mind if you are planning to do multiple coats.

I have attached a few pics - I am not done with the paint yet as I am still working on the DANA 44 and 9 in rebuild and I still have the Wildhorses 5.5 in lift that needs to get put on - at that point I will finish up all the areas that are not painted yet.

Last but not least - I have ordered all my paint supplies through the POR-15 Depot and have been super impressed with their service - I would not consider ordering from anyone else.

Brenden

 

[jate]

I would consider having it powdercoated. I compared powdercoating vs. POR15 and found there to be little difference in total cost. It cost me $11/ft and that included sandblasting and priming. All told it was less than $200. You will spend over $100 in just POR 15 plus the cost to sandblast and prime. And don't forget that POR15 is nasty stuff to work with, get some on your skin and you are hating it!

Just something to think about.

 

[71 BRNCO]

wow if you got a quote to powdercoat a whole frame for $200 jump on board. They want $500 here. Please consider your uses of the rig as well. Because powdercoat cannot be touched up.

 

[bigpappa]

wow if you got a quote to powdercoat a whole frame for $200 jump on board. They want $500 here. Please consider your uses of the rig as well. Because powdercoat cannot be touched up.

This is what I was going to say as well.

 

[jate]

This is what I was going to say as well.

A good place to check on prices is with a trailer manufacturer. There are a couple in my area that will powdercoat a frame at a reasonable price.

 

[malcolmzilla]

Thanks guys.

I pressure washed the frame last night, and I now think sandblasting is in order for 2 reasons.

First, to reveal any "weak" areas ion the frame, although the pressure washer did remove most surface rust, and the surface dirt/grease. The rear shock mounts look bad, might have to cut and replace some material there (and add drain holes!), most else seems good.

Second, the water was/is beading on the front of the frame, while the 30 years of engine and transmission leaks have done a great job of preventing corrosion, I suspect it will make a poor surface to try to stick paint to, or weld on.

Unless someone can point me to a kickass degreaser? ?:?

Still debating the POR15 v.s. Rustoleum, thanks for the pics and tips. Powdercaoting would be cool, but is out of my budget.

 

[Mark]

Rustoleum sucks.
I did my roll bar in rustoleum and I would have been better off going with regular paint.
Powdercoating would be difficult to touch up if chipped.
POR15 is not as bad as some make it out to be if (when) it gets on your skin. You can peel it off (your skin) when it dries.

 

[JohnJohn]

I am sure others will chime in but Easy-Off Oven Cleaner will take just about anything off including grease and paint. It is cheap and very affective.

 

[malcolmzilla]

Sweet tip on the Easy Off - what do you rinse it off with? Water?

 

[DuneBuster]

POR Frame Prep Observations/questions

Did you do any prep on the inside of the frame? People forget the inner is the biggest source of long term rust and damage..

We had our frame sandblasted before POR-15'ing and then had the guy blow out the insides. A whole ton of junk came out (mostly rust, but a birds/rats' nest and other junk too). Later we stood the frame on end and banged on it with a sledge hammer several times on each rail, even more rust fell out..

Did you POR the inside afterward? After trying to clean and just pull a sponge thru the inside, we pulled a POR-15 soaked sponge thru to coat the inner.

If you POR the frame buy a big box of latex/rubber gloves and wear religously while working. Get a half-gallon or more of mineral spirits and a big roll of paper towels to clean off afterwards.

Two points on Powder coating:
1) If you chip it later, that hole is a direct route to let water inside the coating, and then it just sits there and rusts, later surfacing farther away.
2) How do you get the inside coated?? If you don't get the inside done, the frame holes are then set up to admit water to the frame outer under the poweder coat even if you don't chip it.

Good luck either way you go.
After buying a '73 Bronco and then finding out how bad the frame actually was and having to completely rebuild, I've decided that protecting a frame is a great investment you can make if you want to see your EB last.

 

[JohnJohn]

The Easy-Off will come off with just water.

I found the labeling on the can at this site if you are intersted.

It is serious stuff. Even stronger than many automotive products. Take care when using it.