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Front Disk Brake Conv?

American Pride

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
119
Loc.
L.I.,NY
i am going to atempt the task on sat. and still a little questionable.(even after reeding the threads)
i got toms disc conv., new u-joints, mc from a 76 f250.
any other parts i need? any andvice would be apreaciated.
*i plan on shooting detailed pics of the process for the other super rookies out there ?:?
 

rmfreeze

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2005
Messages
742
Loc.
Benton, Arkansas
I just finished up mine and ended up getting new stainless braided lines to replace the factory rubber lines at the rotor. But all is not well. When I went to bleed them the rubber line from the MC to the frame for the front brakes popped and sprayed fluid all over. Better now than later so I am seriously debating replacing all the lines at this point. The passenger side front axle hard line fitting where it goes to the rubber (now stainless line) was rusted to the fitting.
 

Duke Nukem

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2004
Messages
779
Loc.
Simi Valley
American Pride said:
i am going to atempt the task on sat. and still a little questionable.(even after reeding the threads)
i got toms disc conv., new u-joints, mc from a 76 f250.
any other parts i need? any andvice would be apreaciated.
*i plan on shooting detailed pics of the process for the other super rookies out there ?:?

Make sure you have a hub socket and ball joint socket. You'll need them.
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
Tom's kit is pretty complete you should be good. But how about new wheel bearing's? I beleive seals come with toms kit. you dont need a ball joint socket as posted earlier unless your planning on replacing the ball joints. Master cylinder lines would be a good idea as posted earlier unless yours are fairly new. I'm ordering braided lines from summit racing to replace all the rubber ones on my 71 they will actually be chaeper than any of the bronco house prices but I do have to piece them together and they are not DOT legal.
Keep in mind that if your brake pedal seems too hard compared to the braking power you get you may want to go with a F150 MC most people find the F250 MC doesnt put out enough pressure thats why the hard pedal.
 

ken75ranger

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2002
Messages
5,069
Loc.
Troy, NY
You will need aftermarket hubs. I'd try your stock m/c before you switch. Some guys get lucky and it works fine.
 

TOFIC

Bronco Wrencher and Fixer
Joined
Jan 6, 2004
Messages
3,740
Loc.
Redcliff Alberta
ken75ranger said:
You will need aftermarket hubs. I'd try your stock m/c before you switch. Some guys get lucky and it works fine.
I hate to disagree with you Ken but I have to in this case. The stock MC will work BUT you must remove the residual pressure valve from the reservoir that you are using for your front brakes. On the 76 F250 some of these trucks are all drum brakes. Please check and ensure the MC you are using is set to discs for the reservoir that you are using. SAFETY first. Not trying to be derogatory or anything to anybody, just that I like seeeing and hearing from ALL my Bronco buddies.
TOFIC
 

4xfloored

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 24, 2004
Messages
1,043
Loc.
San Bernardino
I replaced any rubber I had w/ S.S ... I didnt like having disc with no power brakes, just didnt feel right.. you might though... make sure you bleed em real good, I just ended up getting BC booster kit... , and I love it.. I can lock up all four and it stays straight ;D .... disc front/ drum rear
 

Wes harden

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2005
Messages
111
must use disc MC

I agree w/ Tofic, thou I wouldn't call it a pressure valve, more like a check valve, that will maintian a small amount of pressure in your front brakes.
 
OP
OP
A

American Pride

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
119
Loc.
L.I.,NY
So does anyone know what I need to do in order to see if my stock m/c will work? What procedure is needed to remove the check valve. Also, i f I am using new Warn manual locking hubs, do I need to re-use the large spring that keps pressure on the locking mechanism? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
 

SaddleUp

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
9,655
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
If your converting to disk brakes then spend the extra money and do it right. I.E. Get a Disk/Drum master cylinder. Wheel cylinders and calipers both require different volumes of fluid to operate and the safest thing to do is get a master cylinder designed to match those requirements. Sure the check valve can be removed and it might even work. Is it worth taking a chance just to save $15 though? I don't think so.

Don't put the large spring in if your using Warn hubs. That spring is supposed to be removed and can/will cause premature failure if it's left in.
 
OP
OP
A

American Pride

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
119
Loc.
L.I.,NY
thanks for the info, i got a 76 f250 mc but the brake lines go on the wrong side. i am doing the conv. as i am writing this and i have to drive the eb home from my friends house. but i do intend to have a new mc in it, just which one?
 
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