Front Floor Pan Replacement

[CJ who???]

After doing a whole bunch of searches on Floorpan/Floorboard replacement, I think I'll be going with the ribbed pans from Tom's. Seems like the best plan is to to use 8 x 3/4" self tapping screws every 1 1/2" to 2" around the edges, then, remove the screws and spot weld the holes.
One thing that I can't find much info on are the 2 piece pans that Bronco hut offer. A couple guys said they were actually easier to install than the single piece pans. I'm just not thrilled about having to weld them together in the middle..
Anybody have anything positive or negative to say about them???

Anybody run into any problems or have any issues with the pans from Tom's ???


Also, I'm getting ready to buy a 110v mig welder. I'm 90% sure I'll purchase a
Miller 140. The cheapest I've seen them is right at $700.00. The Lincoln and Hobart can be had for about $200.00 less.
What do you pro welders out there recommend ??? I haven't really welded much for quite a few years. It'll just be used for house/home stuff (like floorpans), no real big projects.

UPDATE; just found a place back in Delaware called B&R welding supply that has the Miller 211 (dual voltage) for $1022.00 with a $75.00 mail in Rebate. I can't pass that one up !!!

 

[nkhd1]

You should drill like 3/8" holes around the edges then use drill screws to fit the pans. If you just use the screws you may not get much penetration. You can fill up the screw hole on the pan and not even burn in to the body you are welding it to. Opening it up to 3/8" will ensure you get a good weld.
weld a couple and then look at the screw holes from the under side of the vehicle, you might be surprised to see most of your hole still remains.

 

[Glass Pony]

I believe Hobart and Miller use a lot of the same parts.
I have a Hobart 140 and when I buy tips and cups they are Miller parts.
That welder puts down some nice welds when you use the solid 70S wire and the argon/co2 mix.

 

[Crawdad]

Be sure to brace the inside of your bronco. All you need to do is tack it good. No need for 1" joints. It helps prevent shifting. I do not know which panels to take out first or repair first. I've seen guys do one panel at a time which takes an awful long time. And I have seen those who remove everything at once! Try not to apply any heavy weight (like yourself or heavy mig machine) inside till you are finished welding.

X2 what nkhd1 said! Sand all your surfaces (front and back if possible) being welded and clean with isopropyl alcohol before welding. This ensures the best welding surface. A bigger hole (1/4" to 3/8") in the new floor pan does increase chances of getting a good bead onto the parent material (original floor brace or floor board) and your new panel. Make sure to alternate from one corner to another to prevent warping. Instead of screws I plan to use Clecos. I've used these when helping sheetmetal guys on F-16 panels and they save a whole lot of time. I plan to used the 1/8" clecos and drilling a 1/4 hole in new pan once I get the pan in the proper place.

Take your time and good luck! Post lots of pics of tear out and install!

 

[u10072]

THR 211 miller machine is a nice machine and one you will get a lot if use out of.

 

[sellitall]

UPDATE; just found a place back in Delaware called B&R welding supply that has the Miller 211 (dual voltage) for $1022.00 with a $75.00 mail in Rebate. I can't pass that one up !!!

It's actually in White Plains, MD. Still a great deal. Do they charge shipping? If they do you can go to weldingmart.com and get the welder with free shipping for $1047.

I have a MM 140 and like it. I'm not too keen on the auotset feature since I've been welding for years. Semms like a gimmick to get new people to buy their machines. I've been a lincoln supporter for YEARS (and still am), but have nothing to complain about Miller. My buddy has a MM 200 from back in the day I keep hounding him to sell me. They are beasts!!

 

[DWALKER]

If I'm not mistaken Miller now owns Hobart. I have just finnished replacing my floor pans. The best advise I can give is take your time and test fit. Use the screws to hold the pans in place to get them how you want them. Also the pans may not have any holes in them ie body mounts, seat belts, seats. You will have to drill them.

 

[Scoop]

For floor pans I cut to fit (overlap about an inch, use the zip screws as you stated to hold the edges tight and then stitch weld the edge. (End up with a continuous weld but stitch weld to keep warpage down.) Along door opening I drill the 3/8" holes every 2 inches or so and spot weld - use spot welds where Ford used spots welds and continous edge welds when patching in a solid panel. Come back and remove the zip screws and fill the holes - but this is just filling the holes, not for securing the patch. Also use spot welds to attach to the supports under the floor pan.

This is from my 78 Bronco, but shows the process.

 

[CJ who???]

The panels that I need to replace are just the driver/passenger front. My tunnel cover and rears are good. Once I get the panels done I'm going to spray it with the rhino liner. I'll have to research those "Clecos". Could be I know excactly what they are if I saw them ? Oh, one other question ! What is the "seam sealer" that is recommended to be put on underneth ?? Is it a spray on, brush on, or what ?? Is there a name or certain brand ?? I can see how the 3/8th" holes would really allow some beef/strength to grab on to the old steel with a weld....

Anybody heard or have any 1st hand knowledge about the 2 piece front floor pans that are sold through Bronco hut ??

I think they do charge shipping on the welder from B&R. That would prolly whipeout the $75.00 mail in rebate that goes with the purchase. Kinda strange that that is the only place I've found so far that has the rebate, and they say it's a "Miller" mail in rebate ?? Also, the rebate deal is good thru November.
Hobart IS made by Miller, and some of the parts on the Hobarts say Miller. One thing though is the Miller is made in the USA;D;D;D, and the Hobart isn't. I've read on some welding forums it's kinda like Lexus(Miller) and Toyota(Hobart). The Miller is more of a commercial grade and the Hobart is more of a house/home welder. To compare them apples to apples, Hobart makes a 210 model that is dual voltage just like the Miller. It's pretty hard to find one for less than $900.00. For right around a $100.00 difference, I'd take the Miller for sure.

Thanks for the comments guys and keep um coming !!!

 

[Scoop]

I'll have to research those "Clecos". Could be I know excactly what they are if I saw them ?

Clecos work well in aluminum for when your will be using rivets, but zip screws work better and much quicker for this application.

 

[CJ who???]

Zip screws ??? That's another one I've never heard of...

OK I just checked them out in the Grainger catalog.

 

[CJ who???]

It's actually in White Plains, MD. Still a great deal. Do they charge shipping? If they do you can go to weldingmart.com and get the welder with free shipping for $1047.

I have a MM 140 and like it. I'm not too keen on the auotset feature since I've been welding for years. Semms like a gimmick to get new people to buy their machines. I've been a lincoln supporter for YEARS (and still am), but have nothing to complain about Miller. My buddy has a MM 200 from back in the day I keep hounding him to sell me. They are beasts!!

Just letting everybody know, I just bought the Miller 211;D;D;D and Sellitall is right, it is in Maryland.
Price paid was $1022.00 and that includes shipping AND it also comes with a $75.00 mail in rebate. That brings the total paid to $947.00

If anybody has been even close to being on the fence, that price will be very hard to beat. I don't know how to post the stupid link here, but their # is (800) 783-3073 email brwelder@radix.net

 

[sellitall]

You'll get 80%-90% of the price you paid ten years from now if you resell it. That doesn't include the amount of money it will make you through the years. I had a MM175 I sold about six months ago for $620. A brand new compatable one is around $840 to give you an idea. Basically, you never really lose out when you buy a Miller, Lincoln or Hobart. Good luck with the welder!!!

 

[bflippinw]

Bronco hut pans

I bought a lot of stuff from bronco hut and I'm very pleased, especially the stuff they have made themselves. The floor pans, inner rockers and inner fenders are excellent. I have never used anything else tho as this is my first bronco project. The two piece pans seem to me the best way to go and look more like factory than the others I saw. They don't however bend up at the seat risers and my risers needed metal replaced as someone had glue down carpet in there. I just tabbed up my own patches for those. Their pans were actually a little cheaper too. Might be a little more work where the upper pans meet the kick panel because there bent down like the original but u also get all the old crap out. Talk to Melissa there, she's very helpful.

 

[bflippinw]

Stitch welds

I'd say don't stitch weld. You'll warp the crap out of the pans and they were spot welded from the factory anyhow. I'm trying to make it look as factory as possible. 5/16 holes work good. Predrill your pans and a self tapping screw every other hole seems fine if the panel is tight to the structure. Screws are fast I wouldn't even invest in the clecos. Tek screw is just another name for self tappers.