FW D44 to D60 Questions

[dnewman9]

I have been reading all the D60 threads on here and have a couple questions.

I am looking to move from my current 78/79 FW D44 from a FSB to a Dana 60 for a few reasons. I really like the current width of my axles and do not want to go any wider. What is a better kingpin axle to start with the 78/79 or the 80 up (to ball joint anyway) axles.

It seems like the 80 up shift the housing over 3 inches toward the drivers side. I have seen a few people state they are using this, and I have seen a few other posts saying you can't because it puts the housing right under the frame rail?

I am running Duffs/Cage radius arms, and want to keep the bolt pattern 5 on 5.5. My plan is to cut the housing down, on the passenger side to the same width of the 79/79 HP D44.

What is the the better housing for an EB if;
1. I want to cut the long side down
2. Center the diff with the transfer case
3. Keep my track width the same as my current FW D44


Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dennis

 

[Apogee]

Check out Bronco Brian's build thread on NorCal Broncos: http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3632

If I recall correctly, he started with an '86 D60, then changed to a '79 D60...then shortened both sides if I'm not mistaken. I don't remember the reasoning since it seems like you'd just be better off using the 1985-1991.5 D60 at that point, but I'm sure he had his reasons. You might PM him or post in his thread to ask.

By cutting the 69.25" D60 down to 65", you would move the diff over about 2.125" from those who are running them at their full, 1-ton widths, so maybe that would be enough. It should be close to where the full width 78-79 housing puts the pinion, if not just a little bit more outboard.

Tobin

 

[kholding]

Dennis, just curious as to why you want to go to the D60? Have you run into issues with your HP44 yet? I just bought a set of '76 F150 axles to potentially go to full width and heard that the D44 was great for everything except full-bore rock-hopping extreme crawling.

 

[SpareParts]

I'm running a 1988 D60, kingpin and yes the pumpkin is closer to the tire but not under my frame rail. I have 5.5" susp. lift along with the Cage arms and the weld on brackets and a C6/203/205 doubler so my front DS is 31 1/2" long. We built Jamey's and his is the 79' housing, 5 1/2" susp. with the stock C4/D20. Jamey's driveshaft is on a pretty steep side angle, he had to clearance the yokes out to get them to clear. I would think it would be even harder to get the newer housing to work with out the extra length that I have, but I know people are doing it.

There's a link to my build thread in my sig. line to look at my pics of the D60.

David

 

[kb6677]

What is the wsm to wsm difference between a full width '78/9 D44 and a '79 D60. I am guessing about an inch per side. With that said why cut it. We have been using the 78/9 60 in rigs since '01. The stability of the full width is a real plus. Just a question-sorry for no real answers.

 

[SpareParts]

The stability of the full width is a real plus.

I couldn't agree more! My rig is 100 times more stable since I changed to tons. I run a 5" backspacing and a 17" wheel so I'm not too much wider than I was before. With a normal car hauler I can almost fit in-between the wheel wells. I lack only around an inch or so in from and probably 1/2" in the rear. That's is running a 16.5 wide tire.

 

[78Scronco]

What is the wsm to wsm difference between a full width '78/9 D44 and a '79 D60. I am guessing about an inch per side. With that said why cut it. We have been using the 78/9 60 in rigs since '01. The stability of the full width is a real plus. Just a question-sorry for no real answers.

I believe if I remember correctly, the 778/79 d60 is 3" wider on each side than the FW d44.

 

[Apogee]

I think the EB D44 is 58.5", F150/BB D44 is 65" and 1-tons are 69.25" IIRC.

 

[dnewman9]

Thanks guys, there is allot of great information already.
I rebuilt a 79 housing with brand new everything and 4.10 gears when I had my NV3550 plans and 35s. Now with the 4R70W and OD and the likely move to 37s I really need my gears to be in the 4.88 range, (4.56 to 5.13), especially with my 4.6. It runs good, but a little more gear would be perfect. I am also going to coil over in the front and would like to do it all at once.

Since I am looking at selling my FW44 and starting over, I thought I might as well go D60 at the same time. I know its overkill, but if I am going to spend the money I might as well do it right.

I am really happy with the stance and added stability of my truck. At 65" in my opinion, its perfect. The tires stick out maybe an inch and a half and the front and rear match nicely. I would like to keep my 9" in the rear and the new 15" Shelby slots I bought, so a conversion to 5 lug and narrow it down to 65 would be perfect for me.

Maybe a better way for me to figure this out is if someone could tell me what the distance is from the wheel mount surface to the center of the pinion is on the short side of both the late model and early model king pin 60? I can not find that anywhere including the Pirate bible.

If I can keep that distance stock (assuming it aligns with a D44) and cut down the long side to have the overall wms to wms at 65 I am good. Some of the threads I have seen show the front drive shaft shifted one side or the other where as my current D44 is very close to being in alignment with my NP205. If I would have to modify both sides to get the axle where I need it, this may become cost prohibitive and push me towards building another D44.

Can anyone help on the measurements?
Thanks
Dennis

 

[SpareParts]

Maybe a better way for me to figure this out is if someone could tell me what the distance is from the wheel mount surface to the center of the pinion is on the short side of both the late model and early model king pin 60? I can not find that anywhere including the Pirate bible.

Can anyone help on the measurements?
Thanks
Dennis

I will try to get that measurment for you tonight, again I have the 88' D60 axle. Jamey's isn't at my house right now so I can't get that one for you.

David

 

[SpareParts]

18" from the side of the pumpkin to the WMS for a 1988 F-350, D60.

 

[Apogee]

18" from the side of the pumpkin to the WMS for a 1988 F-350, D60.

Not to hijack the OP's thread, but I would think that the distance to the centerline of the pinion would be more useful since he's trying to figure out how his driveshaft will line up. Still have your tape handy?

 

[dnewman9]

Not to hijack the OP's thread, but I would think that the distance to the centerline of the pinion would be more useful since he's trying to figure out how his driveshaft will line up. Still have your tape handy?

Thanks, that's exactly what I am looking for. Can I keep my driver side WMS in the same spot and have my pinion lined up with the t case output yolk.

If you could give me that measurement I would greatly appreciate it. I also have an email into Brian on Norcal Broncos for advice.
Dennis

 

[SpareParts]

Approx. 23 1/2" on the drivers side and 46" on the pass. side, that's pinion center line to WMS. That measurement is taken with out taking the wheels off and is a good approximation.

I should have done it that way to begin with, now that you mention it. %)

David

 

[dnewman9]

Approx. 23 1/2" on the drivers side and 46" on the pass. side, that's pinion center line to WMS. That measurement is taken with out taking the wheels off and is a good approximation.

I should have done it that way to begin with, now that you mention it. %)

David

Thanks David, I just measured mine and it's pretty close to the same I could not see if my tape measure was all the way in but it was +/- 1". IIRC, the 78/79 was around 3.5" longer than this version.

Looks like the later king pin style is closer to the D44.
Dennis

 

[dnewman9]

I picked up a mid 80's D60 this weekend. 4.10 gears, inner -c to inner c plus axles. I do have the knuckles but they have a lot of rust from back east and 4 of the bottom bolts were rusted in and broken. I may have to buy new knuckles but I got it cheap enough I should be ok.

I talked to Bronco Brian, he bought the same axle originally but in full width configuration, the pumpkin is under the frame rail. He sold it and bought a 78/79 housing. Later he bought new wheels that were way to wide for that axle. He ended up cutting a few inches of each side to work. He thought based on the end he might have been able to stay with the original housing and cut only one side.

That is my plan for now, I should be able to keep the short side stock, keep my wheels in the same position and just shorten the long side to match.

I have to admit, this thing is HUGE and it is making me a bit nervous. I am definitely second guessing myself on this swap! I need to gather some spindles, and other parts and then mock it up to see if I like the way it works.

 

[Apogee]

That makes sense about Brian's build...I never understood what made him decide to shorten both sides of a 78-79 D60 housing when he started with the 80's housing to begin with. I think EB's can smell fear, so show none and start fabricating.