Interesting way to strip paint and media blast

[Preston]

If I am reading his site correctly, this guy uses a giant oven (13' x 7' x 6') to cook what ever parts you put into it up to 800 degrees for as long as 12 hours, then he media blasts with very low pressure (35psi) so as not to damage the body panels. The results in the pictures look pretty thorough and impressive to my untrained eye. What do you guys think?

What would that heating and cooling do to the old metal in our broncos? Again being ignorant I was wondering if it might help relieve "metal fatigue" or stresses that have developed in the metal over the years. Or would it just screw it all up.

http://www.consolidatedstripping.com/ourplantequipment.html

Thanks,
Preston

 

[RedLeg0811]

What I think of is when I have just quenched an item in oil (made it hard as it can be) and then I go to temper it (bringing the hardness down) I put it in an oven at 400 degrees for two sessions of 4 hours. Now this is steel that has any where from .30% to 1.03% carbon in it. Mild steel it should not affect it, but there just seams like something wrong about it. I would have to ask the metalurest at work.

Cheers
Martin

 

[trailpsycho]

I would go with just the media or find someone who can dip it.

 

[bax]

The oven is a great thing. 800 degrees is hot enough to burn off all undrecoatings and rubber crap. It's not hot enough to change the shape of steel. slow cooling is the key, no need to quench a bronco body. The low presure blasting is just to clean off all the ash and remaining goo.

 

[Dave]

Looks like a great way to clean up a body. I did a bunch of chemical stripping before media blasting to clean it up. It really cut down the media blasting effort. Still had to pick out a bunch of seam sealer. Wish the thermostat in my shop went up to 800 degrees.

 

[Preston]

I have seen a race car that was a sedan that had been dipped. There was corrosion coming out of any cavity that was enclosed and difficult to get too. I don't know if it was a bad job. The roll cage shop it was in didn't like it, but did say for a race sedan it lightened the body a bit.

 

[NicksTrix]

the shop i use for stripping burns them off first to remove any grease, fillers, sealers and such. it does not warp the material at all. it's done in a controlled computerized burn booth similar to the one they have pictured on the site you post. it's just quite a bit larger since a full tub is going in. they are built in converted cargo containers.

the next step is the chem strip dip and neutralization. the comments about it weeping after the dip tells me it wasn't neutralized correctly nor rinsed well.

i've done 3 trucks and they have all come out terrific. my body shop loves it when it's their turn to refinish them after i've done my metal work. it makes their job very easy.

i pay to have the stripper coat everything in Ospho to control/avoid the flash rust. they are good to go for months in my shop before they are sent to body shop.

i would much rather have one dipped than blasted as it is getting the inside of the panels & seams where rust is coming from, as media just doesn't go there. balsting is second best. in the past i've had a few panels killed by blasters which hasn't been fun to deal with.

 

[deltarat]

Nick, does the Ospho have to be removed before it is primed or does the primer just go over it? I am going to strip my 1/4s and inside the bed myself. It will take several weekends and I don't want it to rust in the mean time.

 

[screamin reel]

Wow!!! I sure like these guys prices. Wish he were here.

 

[NicksTrix]

deltarat - you leave it on. a quick scuff with a scotch brite hand pad to knock down any dried up runs/ give it a slight finger to bite into and you're golden.