Is there a way to cycle my suspension...?

[Tgure]

Anyone know if I can cycle my suspension with no weight on the frame and come up with correct shock measurements? I wanted to get in on the Bilstein mass buy but not sure how to come up with measurements so I can order. ?:?

 

[JWMcCrary]

Sorry..I am no help on your question.....

BUT.. That pic gives a new meaning to going topless.

 

[73stallion]

the only thing i can think of is use a come along from the axle to the frame to compress and lift the frame for full length.

 

[Dusty]

Yes you can, and this is a common step that many folks take when building a rig, especially with non-stock suspension and shock mounting points. I did this with my EB's frame when it was in about the same state of assembly as yours. Its really pretty easy.

First put the frame up on jack stands, with the stands supporting the frame itself, letting the axles hang down freely. For the front, you can just remove the coil springs and cycle away. The springs don't provide any "control", or spatial locating, of the axle assembly. The rear is a little trickier since the leaf springs are also the "control" links of the rear suspension. That is, they control the location of the axle assembly as it cycles. So you can't just remove the whole spring pack. But you can unbolt the spring pack and only use the main leaf. Get some blocks (wood would suffice for this) to approximate the thickness of the removed leaves and bolt it back together using only the main leaf. Now you can easily cycle the suspension by hand. You will of course get more droop this way, and the spatial location through the suspensions travel won't be exact compared to with a full spring pack, but it will be close, and good enough for this purpose.

Good luck, you're going about it correctly (actually cycling and measuring rather than guesstimating)

Dusty

 

[Tgure]

Dusty,

I do not have a trackbar or anything else holding the axle in place except for the front coils and the radius arms. Should I still remove the coils to cycle the suspension or leave them in place and use a rachet strap to compress each side?

Aaron

 

[elemetal]

If you jack the frame in front like Rusty suggests, you can replace the coils with straps (tension only) and just lift the axle letting it rotate from the radius arms. Don't think that'll work with the trac bar though.

 

[Dusty]

Dusty,

I do not have a trackbar or anything else holding the axle in place except for the front coils and the radius arms. Should I still remove the coils to cycle the suspension or leave them in place and use a rachet strap to compress each side?

Aaron

You should stick the track bar on there.

I also forgot to mention that when I did mine I had bare axle housings so it was simple to cycle them by hand. I see yours are assembled already so you'll probably still have to mess around with floor jacks.

Dusty

 

[Dusty]

If you jack the frame in front like Rusty suggests, you can replace the coils with straps (tension only) and just lift the axle letting it rotate from the radius arms. Don't think that'll work with the trac bar though.

Not sure who "Rusty" is ;D but the straps should be unnecessary. The radius arm bushings at the frame end will contain the suspension within its range of travel, and the suspension will droop further than the free length of the spring (it will stretch with the weight of the axle) so the strap, which doesn't stretch, would give an inaccurate representation of droop.

Dusty

 

[mag409]

Place a floor jack under the axle on the side you want to cycle. Run a heavy ratchet strap or chain under the jack and over the top of the spring bucket. Now use the jack and this will pull the wheel up into the highest point of travel. You can also use this for max droop if you support the front of the frame so both wheels are off the ground and repeat the above process. After getting the wheel stuffed pull down on the drooped wheel to make sure its down as far as it will go. This will give you the max up travel on one side and the droop on the other to simulate trail type conditions. Once you have max conditions set choose a shock that has 1-1.5" additional stroke at both ends of max condition. This is to ensure your shocks will not limit travel. This also works great to check for max tire size with the body back on the rig.

Hope this helps.

 

[elemetal]

Whoops, sorry. :-[