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Just a friendly Safety Announcement

englewoodcowboy

Lick Creek Restorations
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
4,200
I have seen many times when the community comes together to help a fellow or new bronco owner with getting repairs etc. and this is one of the best parts about this community. When it is offered that some on here can help, while the intention is good, we have had a few broncos brought in with bad and on the verge of disastrous results. Please be aware of whom you may recommend, owning a bronco and tools does not make everyone capable of solving a problem. For example, we have a project in here now where the customer paid a decent amount of money to a "Bronco" guy based on recommendation and the work performed was sub par to say the least. They did a 76-77 knuckle swap on a 74 and kept the stock 74 linkage. This is a problem that this combination will allow the vehicle to turn right but a school bus will turn left sharper. We have seen this many times and it is dangerous. On top of that we saw a mis-match of soft brake lines, which a lift the stock length rubber is too short, on this they fabricated a standoff bracket that on compression was smashed by the exhaust, not to mention the rear soft hose was a hydraulic hose and the front was a factory rubber. Front brakes, the tension springs on the caliper keepers go between the keeper and caliper, not the keeper and knuckle, these were between the keeper and knuckle and it caused the calipers to drag. When they bled the brakes, it takes a special tool to lock the prop valve cut off pin in neutral, if you do not do this, when you work from back to front you will bleed the back fine and the front fine but when you move to the front the floating cut off will shut the rear hydraulics off leaving you with only front brakes like this guy did, again dangerous, not only to the owner but the potential of others on the road. They had replaced ball joints, there is a torque spec and sequence for these, they were loose, so loose the threads were chewed up because the tapers could move, and they all lined the tapers with anti-sieze and this is a huge no no, they need to wedge and bind, that is how they work. Because of them being able to pivot on the tapered shaft it chewed the threads and we had to torch the nuts off and fortunately the preload bushings were destroyed but not the C's on the axle housing. I do not know whom the individual my customer used is nor do I care but I feel it is necessary to post this up. If you guys are doing work and you do not know the correct assembly, procedures and specifications to do this safely, PLEASE STOP before you kill yourself or someone else out there. I have posted the procedures before and will gladly share and help if someone asks. I am just glad our customer reached out to us and we found this in time to save his impression of being a bronco owner and how they should actually drive and handle.
 

pipeline010

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2017
Messages
618
As the reigning nincompoop of self-repair I support this message entirely.

I'm lucky in that where I work there are career (semi-retired) old school professional mechanics that assess absolutely everything I do or plan to do and safety check it all after I'm done.
 

jperry1290

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
920
Just as a side note your insurance company may deny a claim if the work is subpar and it somehow contributed to the accident. Plus, you could find yourself at fault in a collision and liable in a civil suit. In today’s world of sue happy people you could lose everything you worked for.
 

AZ73

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
3,623
Thanks for the information. I had most of my work you listed done at a driveline shop, but I think I'm going to check it all in case they didn't know.
 

toddz69

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
10,571

Attachments

  • proptool.jpg
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76 bronco J

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Messages
1,480
>>>> the '76-'77 pressure differentional/metering/proportioning valve has a pin on the end you hold out during bleeding... very easy to make a "tool"....
attachment.php
 

grs44310

Full Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2005
Messages
490
Loc.
Akron, Ohio
This would explain why my rig always seems like it’s only stopping on the front brakes no matter how the backs are adjusted. Good to know now I can correct it. Thanks!
 

toddz69

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
10,571
>>>> the '76-'77 pressure differentional/metering/proportioning valve has a pin on the end you hold out during bleeding... very easy to make a "tool"....
attachment.php

You are correct - the ones I showed in the pic are for aftermarket metering/proportioning valves.

Todd Z.
 
OP
OP
englewoodcowboy

englewoodcowboy

Lick Creek Restorations
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
4,200
Those are the tools. For most of our builds/rework we opt to ditch the H block and prop valve and replace with a wildwood adjustable. I have found that when you increase tire size, it tends to require more pressure to achieve efficient stopping performance. With the adjustable valve we can decrease pressure to the rear while increasing it to the front at the same time and improve the breaking. Remember there are 2 types of weight when dealing with a bronco and they both effect the braking system, sprung weight and unsprung weight. When you lift a vehicle and go with bigger tires/wheels you are effecting the unsprung weight and creating more rotational force you have to counteract to stop. The downside to the way we do it is it eliminates that redundant feature of a metering valve to close off one side of the system should you incur a leak or blown line. We do not recommend this type of upgrade unless you are replacing all of the lines both hard and soft with performance rated equipment like copper nickel or stainless lines as well as braided reinforced stainless flex lines.
 

77RHINO

Full Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
308
This is good info, and makes me believe my system has an issue. During a brake line failure last year, I lost all fluid through the pass rear line, and finally stopped by downshifting and the parking brake. This makes me think the device should have prevented any more flow to the rear when the line blew? I did a quick fix by taking some vice grips and crimping it off enough to make it to my destination. We replaced the line but never messed with the prop valve when we re-bled. Looks like I'll be doing some brake work as well once my new axle gets here!

Where would I find that compression tool?
 

toddz69

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
10,571
If anyone needs one of the orange ones in the pic I posted, I'll sell them for $5 shipped. I think that's cheaper than anywhere else online.

Todd Z.
 
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