Kiser Riser Install Question

[JeepGuy]

So the long arms and 3 1/2" lift are almost ready to go together. I went to install the Riser and ran into a situation that raised a question.

The old stud that sticks out of the stock track bar mount can only be removed by cutting it off. It appears it was installed this way which is not a big deal. i originally thought I needed to use it to help guide the height setting on the Riser but when I put the old stud through the bottom hole, it leaves the Riser about 3/8 inch off the axle. Meaning the curved portion of the riser which I assumed would rest right on top of the axle does not.

So..... do I just cut the stud all the way off, flush everything up and weld away, or is it supposed to ride this high?

 

[Broncitis]

I have installed a couple of these, but it has been a while.

I think it is supposed to be that high. You just leave it like you have it and weld the riser to the original mount, not necessarily to the axle tube unless you can work in a nice fillet weld that will achieve that.

I would cut off the original stud flush with the new riser, then grind it down about half way and then plug weld the hole in the riser to and around the old stud and then grind smooth.

 

[turbotim2]

I had a similar issue but I did get it resolved. Mine did fit tight against the axle. You are supposed to cut off the stud flush and plug weld like Broncitis said. I am drawing a blank right now but if you send those pics to Bernie, he will be sure to answer your question.

 

[PaveBronco]

All depends on how much height you need on your track bar, you’ve got the two adjustment holes but if you need to fine tune the track bar vs. drag link angle I suppose you can slot that lower mount vertically. If I remember right, mine from WH sits about 1/4 inch above, gives enough room for a good bead. I’d also speculate that there is quite a bit of variation from the Ford House on the factory mount. I guess that’s why they call it fabrication.

 

[bigjhoov]

Nope, that looks good. As long as the back of the kiser riser touches the face of the existing Trac bat mount, you're good to go. Just weld in where you can. I will usually cut the stud down to about 1/4" to still be able to use it as an alignment pin and roset weld it in after everything else is.

 

[JeepGuy]

PaveBronco: Fabrication..... I signed up for turn key grocery getter... lolol

Cool, thanks for the reply's. Should weld up nice, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.

 

[BigToe]

I had a slight issue with mine, so I sent Bernie a couple of pics. He was great and reminded me that these wonderful trucks we love so much seem to have a few variances in the assembly process and no two are really the exact same. In other words it looks fine, weld 'er up.;D

 

[JeepGuy]

Nope, that looks good. As long as the back of the kiser riser touches the face of the existing Trac bat mount, you're good to go. Just weld in where you can. I will usually cut the stud down to about 1/4" to still be able to use it as an alignment pin and roset weld it in after everything else is.

Went to start melting metal together and noticed something. The track bar mount that is on there right now has a face that is slightly canted back towards the axle. Meaning the face of it is not vertical or in line with the front of the diff housing. It would seem the angle is there to adjust for the height of the yoke at stock height which kinda makes sense. If the yoke is above level the face of the riser would be closer to vertical keeping the bar from binding. i'm trying to avoid installing this with the axle under the truck but it's looking more and more like I might have to roll it under there and install the track bar to check the angle.

Any thoughts?

 

[pipermike]

I think it's always better to take the extra few minutes and mock it up before you weld something like that, I learned the hard way after welding my riser bracket on I discovered the same thing you are describing, I was planing on using my stock track bar over again but that wasn't going to work, it was off when I went to bolt it back in. I used an adjustable one to solve my problem, but it was never happy about it.

 

[ransil]

Install the trak bar before welding.
I didn't and the stock trac bar would not go on the lower bolt, adjustable trac bar took care of the issue.

 

[JeepGuy]

Checked... double checked... drank a couple beers... then checked again... Here's what I discovered. the angle on the original brackets is to accommodate for the pinion angle in relation to a true vertical (90*) from ground.

I made sure the riser was flush along the side of the original riser, parallel down with the center line of the axle tube, and as flush as possible with the face of the original trac bar mount. Welded it up and it worked out perfect.

I'll add some pics later.

 

[JeepGuy]

 

[pipermike]

Nice job, now you just need a big bump stop!