Mini Spool front and rear?

[JohnJohn]

I have a 1970 trail rig that I only drive to the gas station 1 mile on the road. The rest of the time I am off road only. I have a mini-spool in the rear and hope to upgrade to a mechanical locker later but I want to lock the front but don't want to invest a lot of money at this point.

Are there any concerns with putting a mini spool in the D44 front?
For $70 it seams like a fast path for me to get more traction.

 

[Whoaa]

Of course its difficult or sometimes impossible to turn w/ a locked front end. The rig always wants to go straight forward. Having a locked front end for traction is a steep price to pay for losing the ability to turn on trails.

And when you do turn, having a solid locked front end carrier puts tremendous stress on all of the associated parts; namely axle's and axle U joints. Now its not a matter of "if" you're going to break parts, its how many and how often.

 

[JohnJohn]

I was leaning toward a lunchbox locker like the Spartan for $230 but I thought I would see what others thoughts were on the mini spool in the front.

 

[Whoaa]

Any type of terminology that says "spool" means solid locked to me.

In the old days we used to weld the spider gears in an open carrier and make it a locker. This was cheap for a bunch of kids having fun who couldn't afford a spool.
We'd go 4 wheelin w/ only 1 hub locked in and in effect have 3 wheel drive. If you tried driving around w/ both hubs locked it wouldn't turn, and was only a matter of time before you broke an axle shaft.
Then when we'd squared up to a mud pit and lock in the other hub and drive straight while in the mud with true 4 wheel drive.

I think the best set up is to use some type of on-demand locker that you can control. ARP is prolly the best, but very expensive.

I'm easy on my rigs now, and using a true tac limited slip in the front.

 

[AxlesUp]

my rig is welded in the front and in 4x4 on firm ground i can't get it to turn most of the time. in 2wd i can turn it with one finger even on pavement. I'm really not worried about breaking the Dana 60 but i would like to be able to turn LoL

i say weld it up and if you don't like it then you have no money in it and can change it for something better. the down side to this is if you go lunch box you'll have to get a new carrier as well.....

 

[Skiddy]

my rig is welded in the front and in 4x4 on firm ground i can't get it to turn most of the time. in 2wd i can turn it with one finger even on pavement. I'm really not worried about breaking the Dana 60 but i would like to be able to turn LoL

Time for full hydro

 

[Scoop]

John, I would not recommend a minispool for the front unless you have hydro assist or full hydraulic steering. You will get into a spot where you can't turn and then you'll need to get out and unlock a hub . . . but then you're bound up and the hub won't unlock . . .

I love my spool in the rear but I would never put one in the front.

 

[Justafordguy]

I would just save up for a drop-in/lunchbox type auto locker. Easy to install and very manageable steering.

 

[Toddpole]

I have to agree with Scoop and Justafordguy. Install a locker. Don't spool or weld the front.
I have a Lock-Right lunchbox locker in the front (D44) and a mini spool in the rear. I run 37s with a 5.0/T18 trans (6.32 first gear) on the super grippy Katemcy pink granite. I busted numerous u-joints in the front axle before upgrading the shafts and never once has the locker given me any trouble.

 

[xcntrk]

Lunch box insertable locker is your best bet. I ran one in a CJ Jeep D44 front and it worked great!

 

[5001craig]

I've never had a spool up front but with my hubs engaged my '74 does some weird stuff even in 2wd when on-road.

I have a Lockright and it's worked perfectly. I presently have them both front and rear (installed new less than a year ago). Switching to different lockers due to a new engine with additional hp.

I will be selling my Lockright lockers front and rear soon--all with 3.50/3.54 gears (as well as my running non-smoking 302 presently in the truck). I also have a spare set of axles (front and big bearing rear from a '76 or '77) I will be listing soon. PM me if interested.

 

[JohnJohn]

I will go with a Spartan mechanical locker up front then. I did not think I needed a new carrier of I had am open diff to start with.

 

[garberz]

I will go with a Spartan mechanical locker up front then. I did not think I needed a new carrier of I had am open diff to start with.

You don't need a new carrier, just make sure your carrier is in good shape, no visable cracks.

Mark

 

[welndmn]

If you're considering a spool on a Dana axle, I'd just weld it.
I personally hate spools. I've had them in the rear of the for years because they were cheap.
Swapping to a real locker, (Detroit or Yukon grizzly) really takes the push out of the rig.
Welding up a on open carrier, all that takes is time. If you don't like it, you were going to replace it anyway.
I'd only suggest a lunch box locker n the with 33" and under tires.

 

[xcntrk]

I will go with a Spartan mechanical locker up front then. I did not think I needed a new carrier of I had am open diff to start with.

Carry some extra joints if you're running stock shafts/joints.

 

[KyleQ]

Aussie locker is my suggestion - I drive my 96' Bronco all the time with the hubs locked in 2WD on the pavement and it makes some clicking noise but drives nice and easy with the weak ass worn out original power steering pump.

People need to realize the best setup is spool/selectable up front and a aussie/Detroit out back. A locker in the rear and nothing up front will push the tires through a corner while a locked front end will always pull through the corner. It is counter intuitive but works the best-