broncosbybart
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2002
- Messages
- 2,644
For those that like tons of pics and info, build is here:
http://www.cb4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?3626-ECORS-Class-A-race-rig-build
I built this for the ECORS series here in the south east. The rig has gone several changes, but here are the basics:
Stock EB frame. Rear spring hangers re-located 4" for a slight stretch. Front axle is in the factory location. It has a full 1.75x0.120 wall DOM cage tied to the frame in 14 spots, if memory serves correct. The front and rear sections are tubed and support the sheet metal. There is no bed/fenderwells/tailgate. Likewise there are no inner front fenders. The firewall and front floors are factory EB. The rear quarters are dovetailed in about 2". You really can't tell it was done. Front is factory EB width.
Suspension is all 'stock type' with 2x0.250 wall DOM radius arms and 1.25" heims. Rear has NEW (about 3 trail rides) 3.5" WH springs and a DIY Ruff Stuff anti-wrap bar. Shocks are 2.5" KING triple bypass 12" up front, and 2.5" remote reservoir on the rear w/14" stroke. The truck has 10" of travel on the front and 12" on the rear and is controlled via bump stops and limiting straps.
Steering is a 4x4x2 box and ram assist linked to a Iron Man DOM TRO kit w/heims. Steering column is just a 0.75" DOM shaft and removable wheel.
All body wiring was done with new wire and has your basic stuff- head lights, tail lights, brake lights, electric cooling fan(s), horn, ignition all via a switched panel (no key).
Engine is an Explorer 5.0 with 90' Mustang MAF components and 6AN plumbing. Griffin radiator, electric and mechanical fan. Trans is a C-4 with deep sump pan, external cooler (no radiator cooling), temp gauge, B&M shifter, and a thermostat controlled fan.
Axles are D44 front and 77' 9" rear. 4.88's and ARB's in both. Chromo shafts in both with Superior (lifetime warranty) in front and CTM joints. 31 spline rears with a Currie 9+ nodular center section. 4 wheel discs.
Interior has Corbeau seats, 5 point harnesses, B&M shifter, cutting brakes, adjustable proportioning valve, full gauges (tach, temp, oil press, trans temp, volts, fuel level) but no speedometer. You can use a GPS (which is what I do).
Rig performs well and has several trophies to back it up. I have driven it on the street. I have a removable windshield frame for it. It has 33" bias TSL's on it, so street manners aren't the best. It would drive well with radials, but I'd also look into putting blinkers on it if you plan to go that route. Here in NC it is an antique, so no inspection but it is pretty well covered from a safety standards viewpoint.
Body panels are BEAT. The hood is about the only thing still in good shape. I have quarters, fenders, and a grille that can be used to make it pretty again. I also have enough white/orange paint to do it. That is the only thing the truck needs.
It is ready to go. It leaks nothing and needs nothing (other than body work if so inclined). I have TONS of spares to go with it (drive shafts, rear shafts, t-case, trans, starter, etc). It crawls very well, never overheats, and just plain works. I won't take less than 12k for it. I don't need to sell but could use the room.
Oh, winch is a Warn XD9000i with rope. Rear bumper is beat, but I have already bent up some tube to start a new one. Any questions, just ask. I do have a title for it but no VIN plate. I think you can get one from Marti if you want.
I have no pics of it currently, but can take some. You can get a good idea of what it is on the build thread. Here is a pic of when it was pretty.
http://www.cb4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?3626-ECORS-Class-A-race-rig-build
I built this for the ECORS series here in the south east. The rig has gone several changes, but here are the basics:
Stock EB frame. Rear spring hangers re-located 4" for a slight stretch. Front axle is in the factory location. It has a full 1.75x0.120 wall DOM cage tied to the frame in 14 spots, if memory serves correct. The front and rear sections are tubed and support the sheet metal. There is no bed/fenderwells/tailgate. Likewise there are no inner front fenders. The firewall and front floors are factory EB. The rear quarters are dovetailed in about 2". You really can't tell it was done. Front is factory EB width.
Suspension is all 'stock type' with 2x0.250 wall DOM radius arms and 1.25" heims. Rear has NEW (about 3 trail rides) 3.5" WH springs and a DIY Ruff Stuff anti-wrap bar. Shocks are 2.5" KING triple bypass 12" up front, and 2.5" remote reservoir on the rear w/14" stroke. The truck has 10" of travel on the front and 12" on the rear and is controlled via bump stops and limiting straps.
Steering is a 4x4x2 box and ram assist linked to a Iron Man DOM TRO kit w/heims. Steering column is just a 0.75" DOM shaft and removable wheel.
All body wiring was done with new wire and has your basic stuff- head lights, tail lights, brake lights, electric cooling fan(s), horn, ignition all via a switched panel (no key).
Engine is an Explorer 5.0 with 90' Mustang MAF components and 6AN plumbing. Griffin radiator, electric and mechanical fan. Trans is a C-4 with deep sump pan, external cooler (no radiator cooling), temp gauge, B&M shifter, and a thermostat controlled fan.
Axles are D44 front and 77' 9" rear. 4.88's and ARB's in both. Chromo shafts in both with Superior (lifetime warranty) in front and CTM joints. 31 spline rears with a Currie 9+ nodular center section. 4 wheel discs.
Interior has Corbeau seats, 5 point harnesses, B&M shifter, cutting brakes, adjustable proportioning valve, full gauges (tach, temp, oil press, trans temp, volts, fuel level) but no speedometer. You can use a GPS (which is what I do).
Rig performs well and has several trophies to back it up. I have driven it on the street. I have a removable windshield frame for it. It has 33" bias TSL's on it, so street manners aren't the best. It would drive well with radials, but I'd also look into putting blinkers on it if you plan to go that route. Here in NC it is an antique, so no inspection but it is pretty well covered from a safety standards viewpoint.
Body panels are BEAT. The hood is about the only thing still in good shape. I have quarters, fenders, and a grille that can be used to make it pretty again. I also have enough white/orange paint to do it. That is the only thing the truck needs.
It is ready to go. It leaks nothing and needs nothing (other than body work if so inclined). I have TONS of spares to go with it (drive shafts, rear shafts, t-case, trans, starter, etc). It crawls very well, never overheats, and just plain works. I won't take less than 12k for it. I don't need to sell but could use the room.
Oh, winch is a Warn XD9000i with rope. Rear bumper is beat, but I have already bent up some tube to start a new one. Any questions, just ask. I do have a title for it but no VIN plate. I think you can get one from Marti if you want.
I have no pics of it currently, but can take some. You can get a good idea of what it is on the build thread. Here is a pic of when it was pretty.
![Race%204%20Prep%20014[1].JPG](/forums/data/attachments/281/281404-086ce2b73e7afb74de0d7e242d91f122.jpg)
