Need more Cooling on trail

[supermottl]

Hi all,
While on the trail this past WE at ECBR and idling, waiting, my temp rose to about 200-210, but never higher. Once we started moving, it went back down to 180-190. On hiway, never gets above 180. I'm not too worried, but it was also, only 60-70 degrees outside. What can I do for more airflow thru the radiator at slow (crawl) speeds and idle?
Setup: 302 RV cam, stock mech. fan, fan shroud, stock radiator and H20 pump pulley.
Should I try a smaller h20 pump pulley and fan w/ more blades?
Cheerrs..

 

[Skuzzlebutt]

The best way to increase air flow thru the rad is to let air out of the engine bay easier. i.e. venting the hood or removing the inner fenders.
Changing fans and pulleys can help too but ultimately it is poor venting that will limit the total air flow.

FWIW, ambient temps don't affect my running temps noticably. My engine stays around 190 year round.

 

[jason]

i would try a good 6 or 7 blade fan or a electric pusher fan.
good luck
jason

 

[iwlbcnu]

I just put a Flex-a-lite 1500 series fan on my EB for the event, I was running 180 on the road and 210 on crawls before, w/ the new fan I never saw over 170 all weekend and I left the winch cover on too!! I would have to remove it before to get more air flow.

Actually you will need a 1300 series for standard rotation. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/1300-series-flex.html

 

[SaddleUp]

I had the same problem except that mine would go beyond 210 when I was at slow speeds "AND" was pushing it hard. If I was at a particularly challenging spot it would push up towards 240 or so and wouldn't cool down unless I got it moving. The way I corrected it on mine was to remove the mechanical fan and replace it with a Taurus electric fan. I wouldn't try to use a pusher fan though. They usually just block more air than they push through.

 

[Krusher]

The Flex-A-Lite fan, as mentioned above, a remote 16 pass Trans Cooler w/fan and thermocouple, and a bottle of Water Wetter did the trick for me. Even in 100 degree, high humidity, the temp never gets above 180.

 

[68 Broncoholic]

You can also get an engine oil cooler, aluminum radiator, use only wetter water and water, 7 blade fan, shroud is a big help.
I ended up porting the rear of the intake where water doesn't flow in the motor. Others have added an additional heater core in the engine bay with a built on fan. You can get a larger radiator and relocate the steering box and you got tons of room. Lower temp T-stat than what you have now.
I run a pusher fan as well and is good to have. When I stop, I turn it on so it cools whats in the radiator, then turn it on to cycle water again to cool quickly. I can go from over heating to 180* in a few minutes by cycling the hot water around and cooling with the fan/rad. Seems like a nice option to have.

 

[supermottl]

Thanks for all the replies:
I think I'll try the flex-a-lite fans...

iwlbcnu, what's the difference between the 1300 and 1500 series fans?

Also, maybe I'll try the water wetter. I was thinking of a heavier duty radiator, but I'll try cheaper things first. Also, really not looking to cut away any sheet metal... I was wheeling with plenty of stock EB this past weekend of which none had cooling issues...
I could also try the oil cooler.
And I do have a 16" electric fan I could rig up as a pusher, but would need to take off the hood latch... %)

Thanks again for all your replies...

 

[ransil]

Thanks for all the replies:
I think I'll try the flex-a-lite fans...

iwlbcnu, what's the difference between the 1300 and 1500 series fans?

Also, maybe I'll try the water wetter. I was thinking of a heavier duty radiator, but I'll try cheaper things first. Also, really not looking to cut away any sheet metal... I was wheeling with plenty of stock EB this past weekend of which none had cooling issues...
I could also try the oil cooler.
And I do have a 16" electric fan I could rig up as a pusher, but would need to take off the hood latch... %)

Thanks again for all your replies...

I have a new oil cooler for sale.
pm me

 

[supermottl]

I had the same problem except that mine would go beyond 210 when I was at slow speeds "AND" was pushing it hard. If I was at a particularly challenging spot it would push up towards 240 or so and wouldn't cool down unless I got it moving. The way I corrected it on mine was to remove the mechanical fan and replace it with a Taurus electric fan. I wouldn't try to use a pusher fan though. They usually just block more air than they push through.

tried that... it's too fat and I'm not willing to chop up my core support to make it fit.. :'(
some one can have that fan for free if they pay shipping. it's sitting on a hook in my parents garage...
I got it for $45 at the junk yard...

 

[iwlbcnu]

The 1500 is a reverse rotation fan, I am running a serpetine belt set-up on a 5.0 engine.

 

[23firefly]

Ford taurus puller fan

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/taurus/index.html

I did this mod. to my 351 and now I can wheel the toughest trails all day long and never get above 190. Plus its a 2 speed fan so you can run high or low speed. Works great was cheep to do and frees up alot more space by removing your old crapy mech fan. It was the best mod for me.

 

[iwlbcnu]

Any idea how much current it pulls? I know some of the factory Ford fans can killed a stock EB alt.

 

[23firefly]

On the web site it will tell you that the fan pulls 90 amps for a couple milliseconds that it takes to start, then pulls a steady 30-40 amp.......and man like me tell you........thing HALLS ASS!!! It's a puller and not a pusher and is equal to the high cfs that the Black magic fans pull. I think this fan pulls 4000cfs.

I figured out the hard way that when you wire it up you have to use a Constant duty relay, or else you will keep blowing them.

Belive me, you will be happy with this mod.

 

[svens70]

Before you start spending big bucks on fans, you may want to simply flush your system and put fresh fluids. Did you get into any mud that hasn't been cleaned out? Is this something that just started or has it been going on for a while? Don't overlook the simple stuff. If the radiator isn't efficiently moving the coolant through the system, it doesn't matter how many cfm's your fan flow. ;D

 

[hackyrat]

Eliminate the short circuiting of hot air. You pull air through the radiator then it simply flows around the sides and back into the radiator again. For a cheap experiment take some 1/2" water pipe insulation and stick on both front - sides of the radiator all the way from the bottom to the top. Then place a chunk along the top of the radiator to eliminate short circuit over the top. That alone will help and costs almost nothing to try. Take a very close look at the radiator set up and you will see you don't get a full exchange of air but a round and round air flow causing the air to become heat saturated.

 

[supermottl]

Coolant is pretty new.
Problem has beena round since day 1, 4 yrs ago.
Alls well once I get moving, even the smallest bit...

I'll try the flex-a-lite and a dash of water wetter, an d report back.
thanks again