NP435 without body lift?

[tobyw]

Hey gang!! Finally about to get my hands on my first EB to build up, a mostly-stock '69. First on the list will be a D44 up front, and then a new trans to replace the 3-speed. I know the NP435 is a very popular swap, but I'm not real excited to read that it "requires" a body lift for clearance. Is there anyone out there that can debunk that notion? I don't want to hack the tranny tunnel too badly, but I would almost rather do that than adding the extra height. My goal is 3.5" of suspension lift and proper bumpstops to clear 35" Krawlers... Thanks for any input!!

 

[Tito]

I put mine in with a 1" integrated body lift from Wild Horses, I needed new body mounts anyways, worked great. You can get it in without a body lift but it'll be a tougher squeeze. My suggestion is to take the top of the tunnel out (leave a lip on the edge) and then just bend a piece of sheet to go over it once everything is in and you have figured out all your holes. Here is a pic of my hole, really only needed to go bigger on the hole to slide it back.

 

[mud rat jr]

I put mine in with no body lift cut out most of tonnel top and massaged (bent)tunnel as needed,also removed heater outlet. after I put in a new clutch will be fabing up a new tunnel top to cover the hole.

 

[allenfahey]

I used to have a Bronco without a bodylift and here are the measurements I sent someone in the past. Wild Horses sells a cover for the hole is you don't want to fab one.
Measuring from the 45 degree bend up towards the defrost duct on the right side is 4" up and 6" towards the rear with a 1" lip to the crease towards the floor. On the left side it too is 4" up to the air box and 6" towards the rear with a 3/4" lip to the crease to towards the floor.

 

[tobyw]

Thanks for the quick replies and excellent info!! Sounds promising!!!

So to clarify, this can be done and still salvage the heater outlet, correct?

PDX - I dig your linkage setup, clever idea!!

 

[Tito]

Yeah thats the gear banger that Ironbender came up with, they just finished a mass buy a few weeks ago, it works great!

 

[Orange Crush]

with a 1" lip to the crease towards the floor.

I'm having a brain-fart. Can you help me understand this better?

 

[Tito]

Hahaha, I didnt get it either but then again a picture is worth 1k words.

 

[lars]

Hey gang!! Finally about to get my hands on my first EB to build up, a mostly-stock '69. First on the list will be a D44 up front, and then a new trans to replace the 3-speed. I know the NP435 is a very popular swap, but I'm not real excited to read that it "requires" a body lift for clearance. Is there anyone out there that can debunk that notion? I don't want to hack the tranny tunnel too badly, but I would almost rather do that than adding the extra height. My goal is 3.5" of suspension lift and proper bumpstops to clear 35" Krawlers... Thanks for any input!!

As noted here, it's been done countless times. People were putting NP435s in Broncos back when they were still in production. The old time trick before anyone thought of body lifts was to flip the transfer case rubber mounts. Thin one on top, thick one on the bottom. You get an extra half inch or so of clearance that way. I ran mine that way for years.

 

[OX1]

As noted here, it's been done countless times. People were putting NP435s in Broncos back when they were still in production. The old time trick before anyone thought of body lifts was to flip the transfer case rubber mounts. Thin one on top, thick one on the bottom. You get an extra half inch or so of clearance that way. I ran mine that way for years.

The only problem with that, at least on mine is when you pull the TC level all the way back (at least on a T-shift), the shift rod wants to hit the top of the X-member. I will probably put a small knotch in the top of the X-member for clearance.

 

[lars]

The only problem with that, at least on mine is when you pull the TC level all the way back (at least on a T-shift), the shift rod wants to hit the top of the X-member. I will probably put a small knotch in the top of the X-member for clearance.

Ya, and the t-case shift lever, at least on mine, also t-shift, hit the edge of the tunnel opening before 4 lo was completely engaged. Always something...

 

[Salgood]

I used to have a Bronco without a bodylift and here are the measurements I sent someone in the past. Wild Horses sells a cover for the hole is you don't want to fab one.
Measuring from the 45 degree bend up towards the defrost duct on the right side is 4" up and 6" towards the rear with a 1" lip to the crease towards the floor. On the left side it too is 4" up to the air box and 6" towards the rear with a 3/4" lip to the crease to towards the floor.

What is the part # from WH...can't find it????????

 

[Madgyver]

I have a pic on this thread of a tunnel cover that I fabricated.... Also you can see the hole it covered....

 

[broncobuddha]

I just put one in without a body lift. Just cut a lot of the tunnel out and will cover as I need.

PDX, I love the shifter and have been looking at them. Just wondering if they're worth the money. WH wants $325 for the aluminum one. Now that I'm looking at their site, I see the version you have. They must have just added that. $189.99. I'm assuming the functionality and performance is the same? That much more for billet?

Anyone using one, do you have any interference at all with a stock j-shift handled t-case?

 

[Steve]

So to clarify, this can be done and still salvage the heater outlet, correct?

Until I swapped in a C4 a couple of years ago I had an NP435 in mine, with no body lift, and the entire heater still under the dash. Yes, it can be done.

 

[Gummi Bear]

There's quite a few pictures of adding a 435 to my wife's rig in the link in my sig

 

[Sbolt19]

The old time trick before anyone thought of body lifts was to flip the transfer case rubber mounts. Thin one on top, thick one on the bottom. You get an extra half inch or so of clearance that way. I ran mine that way for years.

Thats what I have right now, no problems what so ever and the shift rails don't hit either. I also didn't cut a huge hole in the tunnel and my heater is completely intact.

 

[Tito]

I just put one in without a body lift. Just cut a lot of the tunnel out and will cover as I need.

PDX, I love the shifter and have been looking at them. Just wondering if they're worth the money. WH wants $325 for the aluminum one. Now that I'm looking at their site, I see the version you have. They must have just added that. $189.99. I'm assuming the functionality and performance is the same? That much more for billet?

Anyone using one, do you have any interference at all with a stock j-shift handled t-case?

Thanks, I like it a lot. I put this in when I put the 435 in so I really cant compare between w and w/o but the shifts are very easy because of the mechanical advantage built into the design. I got in with the mass buy @ $140, otherwise I would probably make one like Madgyver did. The Billet is sweet but not in my range unless it was for a show truck, otherwise the function is the same.

 

[broncobuddha]

Sweet, thanks!

 

[allenfahey]

I'm having a brain-fart. Can you help me understand this better?

If you look at PDX's picture where the ends of his speakers are, that's the crease I was talking about.
You might get away with a smaller hole if your body mounts are not old and crusty like mine were.
You will need to take a torch to the shifter to get a bend to clear the blower housing.
Another 435 FAQ.... The trick to remove the shifter is use vice grips, push down, and turn counter clockwise.